JBNeal

I suggest hot tank the block then magnaflux to check for any cracks before putting any tools to it...

My memory is a little fuzzy but as I recall, the flywheel is connected to the crankshaft with 4 or 8 bolts + nuts, and the transmission input shaft rides on a bushing through the flywheel into the crankshaft...the crankshaft pulley has the big threaded fastener, either a crankjaw to accommodate hand starting or just a big headed bolt...that crankshaft pulley should have two threaded holes to screw bolts into for a bar puller, not a jawed puller...gotta be careful not to thread those bolts into the timing chain cover or ya might perforate it

additional information - Fluid Drive General Dimensions

Don't forget about that driveshaft length or the need for that removable frame crossmember...

I'm not seeing anything online regarding the Monroe 66818 so I'm not sure if they are even available for purchase...if you look at the specs for the Monroe 66858 and Gabriel 82065, you'll find they are very close to what you have...Gabriel even lists the 82065 as used on the '54...as far as stiffness, these variety of shocks are used on light trucks so you might find them acceptable

If you have heavy condensation in the crankcase, then it will start to steam out until it all boils away, and there will probably be blowby mixed in with that steam...there may be some additional blowby prior to reaching operating temperature, which ya might feel if the engine seems to have more power when warmed up...another side benefit albeit minor to a PCV installation is that steam can have a cleansing effect on the spark plugs

If the piston rings are not sealing against the bore walls, any wear on the rings or bore can allow exhaust gas from combustion to escape into the crankcase before being forced out through the exhaust valve...the draft tube and filtered crankcase fill cap allow this smoky buildup to escape to atmosphere so that pressure does not build up and blow out the rear main and timing chain cover seals. During normal operation, the draft tube system is supposed to draw out excess gases from blowby or steam forming from condensation in the crankcase but only when the vehicle is in motion; when the vehicle is not moving or moving at low speeds, no vacuum is present at the tip of the draft tube, so those gases escape out thru the filtered crankcase fill cap. But if a PCV system is installed, these excess gases would be drawn into the charge air system at all times, burning off hydrocarbons and keeping the smelly cloud from forming in the engine compartment... additional information - grey beard's PCV installation and modifications

Age is one of the reasons I brought this back up...when my Monroe shocks got about 7-8 yrs old, they started to leak, handling became an issue on lumpy roads, and nose dive was more pronounced on braking especially downgrade. I recently replaced 5 yr old Monroe shocks on the QuadCab as opposite corners started to leak; replacement on all 4 corners substantially improved ride quality and braking with that Cummins had much less nose dive. Shock absorber performance degradation is so subtle that drivers don't know what they're missing until they upgrade to fresh components

I would advise against notching the frame to accommodate your brake lines...if anything, make your brake lines fit inside the frame however possible, especially if you've already deviated from the factory setup...

It was my understanding that from a physics standpoint, electrons flowed more readily from negative to positive poles, so that's why early automotive systems were positive grounded...eventually it was observed that copper conductors deteriorated from electrolysis when charged with negative voltage, so systems were negative grounded to apply positive voltage to the conductors, which helped protect the copper...

Just to clarify the different applications: additional information - shock absorber replacement

Just to clarify the different applications: additional information - shock absorber replacement

Looks like the '54 uses the same shocks as the '51-'53... additional information - shock absorber replacement

Brake fade is a consequence of heat not shedding fast enough from the contact surfaces...fins were added to brake drums to increase surface area for cooling, but ultimately the ventilated disc can shed heat faster than any drum, reducing stopping distance substantially and consistently...there are a plethora of online articles and videos that go into some detail about this comparison...but effectively as vehicles have gotten faster and larger, more braking force is needed and more often in stop'n'go traffic, so ya need to keep them brakes cool to keep braking distances down...if we all drove 2500# vehicles that rarely exceeded 45mph, then drum brakes would probably be adequate

In 2004, I removed the ratty carpet out of my '92 Ram 250 and replaced it with one of these molded rubber floor covers and I liked it, though installing sound insulation beforehand would be a good approach. The trick is to lay the rubber out in the sun for an hour or so, makes the rubber very flexible to test fit in the cab and trim excess as required...trim only a little at a time, do many test fits, and you'll be able to get it just right without botching the product...sold the truck 2+ years later, and the ol' farmer who bought it liked the rubber floor covering and thought it was factory installed til I told him otherwise

additional information - rubber floor cover

Your local John Deere dealer may be able to help...

Since photobucket is still holding files hostage, I started uploading jpgs to my account on this site, but I have to downsize the resolution because of file attachment restrictions...typically I downsize to 640x480 or thereabouts, which gets my 3Mb pics down to about 100kb...

In the factory shop manual, there is a paragraph on rear hub service for the B-1-D, PW, F-J trucks in the Wheels and Tires section... After the retainer is removed, that hub inner oil seal is removed, though I cannot remember if I used a drift on the inner bearing race or the bearing itself to dislodge that oil seal, gotta be careful to not damage that bearing by getting in a hurry... additional information - front wheel seal additional information - rear wheel seals

additional information - shock absorber replacement

That Amazon item looks similar to the McMaster but it appears unavailable now...

I've purchase J-nuts at several Ace Hardware and Lowe's locations, sold individually, in pairs, and qty.5...McMaster could sell ya 10 if ya ask'm real nice...J-nuts are kinda adjustable as the bolt thread engagement tabs can be flattened some and acme or NC threads could be forced into the nut to lock into place

additional information - oil pressure gauge fitting

TOOLBOX ARSENAL: I found this 4" paintbrush years ago in one of the barns and have been using it to clean off work surfaces, projects, power tools and equipment as the bristles are still kinda stiff but not abrasive. While tidying up after conclusion of several recent projects, I actually noticed the writing on the handle: Montgomery Ward (!) So I asked Dad about it, he stewed on it overnight and remembered that Grandpa used that brush to paint trailers and the old field house, so he guesses it was new back in the early to mid 60s...WOW they don't make'm like that no more

Kbro