JBNeal

additional information - front wheel bearings

additional information - distributor rebuild service

I learned my lesson on headlamp assembly replacement last year on my '01 QuadCab; long story short, headlamp brightness is nice but optics determines headlamp effectiveness...contact Daniel Stern Lighting for a possible solution

Are the distributor innards sticking? There's some mechanical weights in there and a breaker plate that can get crudded up, kinda diminishes performance with misapplication of spark timing...

1. Those appear to be brake shoe lubricating washers and covers, needed to keep the brake shoe anchor bolts lubricated and free of moisture...not sure who supplies those, but ya might have some luck placing a parts wanted add for a member who might have an old mayo jar full of'm... 2. That shock absorber bushing washer might be available if ya purchase some new shocks, though ya might want to reach out to a parts house or the manufacturer to see if you can get them...the curved shape is to match the shock rubber bushing contour and keep the bushing and the shock from moving laterally... 3. Those 4 marks are evidence of staking with a cold chisel...this deforms the seal flange and its mounting surface enough to lock the seal in place so it will not spin nor pop out of its bore

There is more than one way to port into the charged air from the crankcase as indicated by the various drawings that I referenced for the original PCV kit, but there are basically 2 paths from the crankcase: from the block, where the PCV valve is installed into the intake manifold; and from the oil fill tube, routed to the air cleaner housing. It is my understanding that the air cleaner provides pressure relief from the crankcase to atmosphere to avoid causing any issues with the carburetor, providing a path of least resistance in case of excessive combustion chamber blowby. Modern overhead valve engines just have a fitting on the side of the air cleaner to attach a hose from an intake valve cover (that is usually filtered), which could work on the oil bath air cleaner housing. The two ways described in the download section aren't as easy to complete, both requiring brazing a nipple through a drilled hole on the bottom of the housing...one version has a nipple through the oil bath, which is just a more difficult way to do the fitting on the side of the housing; and the other nipple is through the base of the housing below the oil bath, at an angle, which requires quite a bit of finagling in a very small space with thin material to make work but is possible and bypasses the oil bath entirely. I had an idea on how to make this work painlessly that would not require brazing but have been sidetracked something fierce for awhile now so I cannot conclusively say if it is worth the risk of damaging a working oil bath air cleaner that is not readily replaceable...adding a ported spacer to the top of the carb could work though

Typically the flathead rear main seal leaks, they even designed a "fix" by adding oil-absorbent felt strips to the flywheel cover butted up to the oil pan and a drain hole to the flywheel pan...there should not be a vent on the top of that 3spd, and there isn't an input shaft seal in the traditional sense as they used a gasket on a flanged sleeve to keep gear oil from spilling out around that input shaft...if you have oil on both sides of your flywheel, then you've definitely got oil leaks from engine + transmission...

According to a Mobil lube chart I picked up on eBay back in '98, the distributor is to be oiled at the oil cup on the side of the body with light engine oil every 2000 miles, with a few drops at the wick under the rotor every 10,000 miles, and a light film of grease applied to the points cam... think of how much those mechanical parts move on the breaker plate, I would assume it needs to move as smoothly as a door latch, so add a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism if not for lubrication but also for moisture displacement...light engine oil has more surface tension than 3in1 or wd40, so it is more likely to "stick" to the metal parts... I have found that there is a lot of vagueness in lubrication procedures for these small parts in shop manuals and lube charts, but my guess is that these documents were aimed at mechanics who had a trained eye as to what needed lube and how much and how often, a skill that is lost on the inexperienced...I've had enough practice to kinda know what needs attention and how often, but it has taken years of accumulating experience to develop an eye for being a respectable grease monkey

The curved glass has been out of production for decades, so you'll have to source from someone who has parted out another truck, possibly place an ad on this site for those who might make ya a deal

additional information - draft tube replacement for PCV system

additional information - distributor mechanical advance info

Another option is to contact some outfit like White Post Restorations to see if they can repair your wheel cylinders...

Kinda looks like there's some smoke in them back tires that needs to be let out

That's a big 10-4...assistance withdrawn ?

additional information - rear brake drum replacement

Please look at the information in the link and subsequent posts in that thread...it has some details that can be used to hide a remote bypass oil filter to keep the engine area looking near-original...

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter

additional information - throttle return spring

additional information - flathead technical information

Since there is a port in the block for the draft tube, might as well use it...concerns about oil droplets getting sucked up into the charged air stream can be dealt with by dampening the air flow with metal mesh very much like that brillo pad filter media in the crankcase breather cap. The intake manifold should have at least one vacuum port that can be used, or ya can tap the cast iron to make your own port. Adding a carb spacer can be tricky as there should be a small vac.passage that is needed by the carb. Not sure how the military carbs differ from the civilian carbs internally...I had communicated with grey beard about his PCV work and suggested choking down his crankcase air breather, but he had dialed in his truck with the newer style PCV valve, was happy with his customization and wasn't interested in experimenting further...

additional information - grey beard's PCV valve installation & modifications You can run the partial PCV setup but it will not draw fumes from the crankcase during high vacuum operation; full PCV setup will draw fumes during all vacuum conditions. Routing of the PCV valve tubing should allow for any oil droplets to drain back into the crankcase to avoid puddling that could choke off that line, which could lead to fouling and eventual clogging

When I rebuilt my steering gearbox, I filled with John Deere Corn Head grease...no leaks, smooth operation, very pleased

nice detail work in the engine compartment...what coating is on the manifolds?

That is generally how I would tighten wheel bearings...I had several seasoned mechanics tell me that a torque wrench is great but after awhile you can get a feel for when you're "within specs"...so they had me snug up the axle nut with one hand while rotating the drum with the other hand; then put a wrench on the nut to tighten the rest of the way SLOWLY while rotating the drum with two fingers of the other hand; once the drum feels difficult to rotate with two fingers, then back the axle nut off so that the cotter pin slips into its spindle hole. Verify wheel bearing tightness by installing wheel and tire and shake it up'n'down then side-to-side then give it a good spin in both sides to listen for any scraping growling grinding or squeaking...if ya do have a torque wrench and the factory specs, do it all by hand then dbl check your work with the torque wrench to see if'n ya nailed it

Maybe that vibration is a loose wheel bearing...