Adam H P15 D30

Yes, it's the rubber check valve closest to the rear of the master cylinder.

Maybe someone here can post the fuel sender values from the shop manual here and help a guy out?

I do not know the factory sender resistance values to match the gauge. If you can find the values, compare them with your sender and you will probably find your issue.

54 - 331 is a unique engine... It most likely has the large valve / large port heads, same as the coveted 555 heads less the water ports. That intake is a wet version and the 4bbls are a 1 year only (I believe). Don't toss it if you go aftermarket!! Is it an extended bellhousing block or short? Probably short.

Might want to look at the Slant 6 conversion instead of points. O.E. reliable parts and no Pertronix junk.

If the sender has the incorrect resistance, it won't work on 6v or 12v. My fuel gauge read the same on both 6v and 12v, I added a Runtz resistor because they are cheap and probably nicer to the gauge.

Oil discussions..... Always lively I think we can all agree, oil has made significant improvements over the last 70 years, right? Multi weights of the 50s were marginal at best, right? All opinion with lots of links to prove one way or another. aka ZINC Claims about "old engines are looser" or had larger tolerances than today's engines can easily be proven or disproven. These claims are often perpetuated here and all other automotive forums but let's take a look. Let's compare our engine to a modern 5.7l HEMI and we shall see... Rod bearing clearance: 230cu 0.0005 to 0.0015 / 5.7l 0.0007 to 0.0029 ----- oops Main bearing clearance: 230cu 0.0005 to 0.0015 / 5.7l 0.0009 to 0.002 ---- another oops Now that we have established our flatheads are actually built with slightly tighter bearing tolerances, this is where is gets less about the numbers... Modern engines have much shorter strokes and much much lighter reciprocating parts. Our long stroke, long heavy rod, fully skirted heavy pistoned engines are throwing ALOT more weight around. This is where a heavier oil is needed for a 'cushion' as the rod bearings are smashed into the journals by all this rotating mass. Though I did not look up these specs, I would expect our cylinder wall clearances to be larger due to the sheer mass of our pistons and the associated expansion rates that come with that mass. Another reason I advocate modern, lighter pistons on a rebuild. There is no logical reason to keep our lead slugs? Maybe cost? No oil recommendations from me, use what tickles you and I know what weight I prefer. As to the OP, if you are getting oil sucked UP through your valve guides, adding positive seals is not the correct approach, find and fix the issue.

I don't know what the actual impedance of a 6v coil is, MOST 12v canister coils are around 1.5 ohms. When measuring, the important thing to look for is an actual value. if the primary circuit or secondary circuit is open, the coil is bad.

Old mechanical fuel pump leaking into the crank case?

You pull the Waldo Grade at 70? Impressive

With the valves facing up I don't see a need... Some oil needs to get in there. I don't install any positive seals on my Hemi's exhaust valves for the same reason, they face up hill.

I doubt your 318 is as wide but this is what I had to do.

I'm with Sniper on this one. If you live where I live and want to drive your car more than the "Sunday drive," certain upgrades are almost a requirement. I would love to see a list of upgrades that made things worse aside from personal preference or shoddy work....

I would put the 277 V8 in and leave the 6 in storage.

Yes, what are you planning to do for a parking brake?

If it's just that one cylinder, I would drop a new piston in there, clean up any marks in the head and move on.

15x7 with 3.5 inch backspace - 205/60/15 front tires aired up to max sidewall pressure 15x8 with 4 inch backspace - 235/60/15 rear tires aired to 35psi I do have an 8" Ford rear axle which was slightly narrower than stock. No tire rub.... ever

A long time ago, on this forum, someone adapted a ?Mustang? steering box. I believe the Mopar pitman arm fit as well.

One last suggestion... Do the floors first before you deplete your funds on a engine swap. Floors are no-joke! Don't underestimate the amount of work floors bring.

I am just remembering when I was in HS... Got a 39 Plym business coupe my sophomore year Got it running and driving stock junior year, too slow. Swapped a 413 / 4spd mid-senior year because I thought it would be better. Sold it that summer for a muscle car because it wasn't my thing. Wish I had it back now Started missing it in my 30's

Have you thought about getting it running and stopping as is? That way you can drive it a little and see if you like the car before you tear it apart for years and sink a bunch of money in it. Having a shoestring budget usually means engine swaps and other large projects can take a lot of time. Having a large budget, these projects can be done in short order. Nothing worse than sinking lots of time and money into a project only to find out you don't like the car.

Yes, I am talking about going that slow. When a highway turns into a mountain pass with slow turns and steep grades, something we see out here in the west quite often. Pull over at the top of the pass, pull OD handle out, proceed... Did that many times in my Ford with an R10. Not to say I didn't love the R10, I did. Just noting a downside depending on your geography. For some in the flatlands it will probably never be an issue and I always thought of it as part of the charm. If I was retrofitting a different trans into a driving (done?) car I would pay the extra $$$$$ for an R10, if I was building it I would put something better in it (T5 / TKO). Either way, I really wouldn't care that I modified it. No stocker is ever safe in my garage

One distinct advantage a modern 5 speed has over an R10, especially if you live where there are hills, is the ability to have an OD WITHOUT freewheeling. Not having to stop and disengage the OD cable when going over mountain passes so you don’t cook the brakes on the downhill. My son has a D150 /6 833OD and those ratios are awful!

Another good reason t go to the 8.8, it has a speed sensor in the top of the housing. I use it for my electric speedometer.

Check Posies for replacement springs. Either way you will have to come up with some traction device with the narrow leaf springs to avoid wheel hop.