Adam H P15 D30

@James_Douglas What did they want for the 54 Chrysler?

What's the 54 Chrysler got in it? HEMI.. 54 was kind of a 1 year only HEMI, short bell, wet intake but large port heads.... usually

Freeze the new guides before reinstalling, makes a difference...

Hello James, When you say "sticky" between gears, I assume you mean the 3 speed part of the transmission and not the OD? If so, try the Redline MTL gear oil, it made my 3 speed shift like butter... Glad to hear it is back on the road.

I usually finish the surfacer with 320, then apply 2 wet coats of sealer. Finish the sealer with 400 wet trying not to go through, then paint. If I go through, I'll spot seal is and shoot. I am not a pro by any means but this has worked for over 20 years. For color, I prefer a catalyzed enamel base with a urethane clear. The enamel will not give that "plastic" look urethane does, more of an "enamel" job of yesteryear. The clear is for UV protection. Cut and buff, shiny but not urethane shiny. I have an inflatable booth that works very well. Pictures of the panel I painted with that system before cut and buff.

Could you replace it with something more available?

Since you're asking, I am using my 49 as the example... Stock 230, except for intake/exhaust changes, stock front suspension with 1 coil cut and no shock relocation, disc brakes, late model rear axle with 3.0 R&P, 235/60/15 rears, stock 3spd FD. You're right and wrong about improvements over time, 38-39 there were many improvements to the chassis, 39 to my 49 and later, not much changed. I drove a 40 Ford PU for many years and miles up and down California at 65-70, all stock buggy sprung beam axle suspension. Stock 59AB, 3spd with OD and no issues except the occasional overheat in traffic. Point is, it can be done and done comfortability. I was only asking if it's a personal choice or some cars were incapable and in need of repair? Yes, if you wreck one of these cars it will probably kill you but I'll take the trade off and not worry about what could happen. I'm 49 years old and not 25 so I do take less risks but there are limits to what I'll give up... Gotta live a little to stay young.

Just a question for those not comfortable at speeds over say 50... Is it you or is the car squirrely, engine too busy? I consistently run 65 sometimes 70 or even some sprints to 80 and its a 2 finger on the steering wheel affair, very stable. I understand the "I just don't want to" crowd but some of these responses elude to the car's capabilities or being a handful. For me it's the lack of OD that keeps me at 70 or below for long periods. With proper gearing or OD they'll cruise at 80 all day... Just asking

Valves need some oil. Positive seals would probably ruin them. I don't put positive seals on my HEMI exhaust valves because they point slightly up hill.

I run 65-70 comfortability with my 49, mostly 65. Everyone else around me is running 80+ bumper to bumper in their Teslas. Have to use the 4 lane super slab to get anywhere so I just stay to the right and don't let it bother me. Kind of like Keithb7, the older I get the less I give a s__t about what the other drivers think, they can go around. Commute time is always 'interesting' around here in an old car running 65 in a 65 zone with everyone else whizzing by. Adding front disc brakes and modern rear drum brakes is not an option if you want to drive where I live.

I posted mine in the first few posts Pg 1.

Somehow 10 second .4km doesn't sound nearly as good as a 10 second quarter mile...

I have commuted in my 49 for weeks at a time, not necessarily by choice but because my daily was being used by someone else. My commute was 70 miles of interstate round trip and I averaged 18-20 on California crap gas running 65 MPH, these we not flat freeways either. No overdrive, stock 230, electronic ign, dual Webers, electric fan, taller rear axle gears and a good heater / defroster. At 70, mileage dropped to about 15-17 equal to my daily...

As James Douglas says above, I would cut them and install bronze liners to control wear. Not sure if it was mentioned here or somewhere else, do not install positive valve stem seals.

You may have to cut your floor, only way to be sure is to install it and see. I would use a 2004R, smaller and takes less HP to run. I've purchased from Bowtie Overdrive in LA California with great results. Make sure to get the TV cable adjustment and pull ratio correct!! There are various carb adaptors for this. As Sniper said, you will have to fabricate bellhousing side mounts and a rear crossmember for the Chevy trans mount after you cut out the original mount.

Since we don't use the fuels that were available 70+ years ago, don't use the factory specifications for timing, jetting...

Get a manual, these transmissions are different than every other 3 speed on the planet. Learn where the shift arms are positioned for 2nd and 3rd gear. Raise the car and support with jack stands. Remove shift linkage, start engine, crawl under and shift the transmission by the shift arms on the case. Does it shift to 2nd and 3rd?

@James_Douglas I have a bucket full of R11 parts if you're interested. They came out of a Ford but some may work?

Also, for those that follow social media, do not answer those "what car did you learn to drive in? The last food you ate? If you could have only one food to eat for the rest of your life?" and similar posts.... You're just giving your password hints away.

Rusty Hope kit and remove the check valve from the master cylinder. No problems, no pitfalls. I even used my factory 15” wheels for a while, other kits, not so.

Looks like a Signal Stat turn signal switch.

Post a picture of your turn signal switch. The brake light power from the brake switch will run through the turn switch, the turn signal switch does the rest. The trunk lid brake light runs directly off the brake light switch and not through the turn signal switch. Clear as mud?

There was a level playing field then, everyone had drum brakes... Not so even now

For you rural folks, I'm sure they do. Try them in San Francisco traffic / hills and get back to us...

@keithb7Send them out for ceramic coating, it will look like new for years. Enjoying your videos on YouTube!