Adam H P15 D30

Somehow 10 second .4km doesn't sound nearly as good as a 10 second quarter mile...

I have commuted in my 49 for weeks at a time, not necessarily by choice but because my daily was being used by someone else. My commute was 70 miles of interstate round trip and I averaged 18-20 on California crap gas running 65 MPH, these we not flat freeways either. No overdrive, stock 230, electronic ign, dual Webers, electric fan, taller rear axle gears and a good heater / defroster. At 70, mileage dropped to about 15-17 equal to my daily...

As James Douglas says above, I would cut them and install bronze liners to control wear. Not sure if it was mentioned here or somewhere else, do not install positive valve stem seals.

You may have to cut your floor, only way to be sure is to install it and see. I would use a 2004R, smaller and takes less HP to run. I've purchased from Bowtie Overdrive in LA California with great results. Make sure to get the TV cable adjustment and pull ratio correct!! There are various carb adaptors for this. As Sniper said, you will have to fabricate bellhousing side mounts and a rear crossmember for the Chevy trans mount after you cut out the original mount.

Since we don't use the fuels that were available 70+ years ago, don't use the factory specifications for timing, jetting...

Get a manual, these transmissions are different than every other 3 speed on the planet. Learn where the shift arms are positioned for 2nd and 3rd gear. Raise the car and support with jack stands. Remove shift linkage, start engine, crawl under and shift the transmission by the shift arms on the case. Does it shift to 2nd and 3rd?

@James_Douglas I have a bucket full of R11 parts if you're interested. They came out of a Ford but some may work?

Also, for those that follow social media, do not answer those "what car did you learn to drive in? The last food you ate? If you could have only one food to eat for the rest of your life?" and similar posts.... You're just giving your password hints away.

Rusty Hope kit and remove the check valve from the master cylinder. No problems, no pitfalls. I even used my factory 15” wheels for a while, other kits, not so.

Looks like a Signal Stat turn signal switch.

Post a picture of your turn signal switch. The brake light power from the brake switch will run through the turn switch, the turn signal switch does the rest. The trunk lid brake light runs directly off the brake light switch and not through the turn signal switch. Clear as mud?

There was a level playing field then, everyone had drum brakes... Not so even now

For you rural folks, I'm sure they do. Try them in San Francisco traffic / hills and get back to us...

@keithb7Send them out for ceramic coating, it will look like new for years. Enjoying your videos on YouTube!

A lot of factors caused the Ford phaser issues but running the recommended 5/20 oil accelerated the problem. Most recommended 5/30 or even 5/40 with higher mileage modulars. It’s the 5 that matters for cold flow. 5/40 sure quieted my 250k old modular F150 up.

It always flows through it's orfice as long as there is manifold vacuum and not backfiring. I am almost positive the application is GM 2.8L V6, the rubber gromet I found in a box store's help section so I do not know the application. EDIT: Maybe 3.8L, it's been a few years

If you go this route, check out a Slant 6 conversion. All done with off the shelf O.E. parts for ~$100.00 or so.

Not quite sure what you mean by "all or nothing" but this PCV I am using has a metered orfice (like all PCV valves) and a constant flow provided there is manifold vacuum. I just cut my draft tube off and rotated it 180 degrees. I think you could do the same with the one you show above.

You can build your own PCV system for a few bucks...

Warning, skip if you don't like long answers with examples and skip if you're not into tuning an engine: This is the information you need to know for the engine to run properly. As for using the manual for this type of tuning, it will work so-so but you are definitely leaving a lot on the table. If you're willing to actually tune your engine, keep reading... Here's why you don't want to use an 80+ year old manual in this case. History: Over the past years I have applied my career in the chemical analysis business (aka refineries) to tuning my cars to today's fuels. When your manual was written, the fuel available was what is called "straight run gasoline." Straight run gas is basically what boiled off the top of a distillation tower and condensed into the fuel your manual was written around (think moonshining). Very volatile and very low octane compared to what is available now and that's where the refining ended due to the technology of the time. During WW2, there was a need to fly higher and faster which required much higher cylinder pressures to and in turn required high octane fuel. It was found that high octane fuels could be found in the heavy oils at the bottom of the distillation towers (where the fuel oil and asphalt lives) but the molecules will have to be cracked using a catalyst. Cat-cracking was born out of this need and the cracked fuel is now blended with straight run fuel to get desired octane and volatility which are all much different that what was available pre WW2 when your manual was written. There is much, much more to this but I am not in class and it will get off topic, but you get the basics. Tuning: First, close your manual and put it on the shelf... Leave the vacuum advance out of this part for now. Get a dial advance timing light. Make sure your timing indicator is correct. With the small bore of our engines, I have found they don't like a lot or need of advance at speed and you also figured that out. I think I ended up about 20-22 degrees total advance @2500 RPM. This is the most important number you need to know, all other numbers need to be tuned in with springs and governors, but you have to be willing... It is possible to have too much advance without pinging especially with low compression. When I did my slant 6 distributor mod, I searched high and low for a 9R governor. This governor allowed 9 degrees of DISTRIBUTOR mechanical advance which equals 18 degrees of crankshaft advance. This allowed me to run 4 degrees of idle advance and maintain a good idle. Since distributor governors are not available for our originals, the advance slots can be welded and filed to achieve the desired amounts of mechanical advance and idle advance. This will allow you to run a much leaner idle mixture, much cooler temps and better drivability. I will probably weld my 9R governor and file to a 6 to allow more initial advance, but I haven't gotten to it in the last several years. The vacuum advance is an economy only thing and probably be used as-is with no mods. For those that use the Slant 6 distributor, make a shim to restrict vacuum advance to about 10-15 degrees total. A lot of time - Yes! Noticeable improvement - Yes! Hope this helps someone... This is a lot of work, if you are not interested the manual settings will work ok.

@38plymouth What's your total mechanical advance at about 2500 RPM?

RE: Painting large, flat panels - I start on one side, work to the middle, go to the other side and continue from the middle to the other side. When it comes to horizontal panels, I make the last coat wetter than I would dare on a side panel. As Kencombs says, make sure you are not fighting the air hose. I lay out 2 hoses, 1 on each side of the vehicle. I will be painting my 56 Panel in a couple of months, I don't think I will be able to avoid dry spots on that roof no matter what I do

Had a set of front wheel bearings squeak like birds right before they seized to the spindle. Thought is was a speedo cable till they let go.

If you're removing the MC, remove the floor and take it out from the top.

I did it from under the vehicle. Took the rubber check valve out of the metal holder and reinstalled the metal piece. Took about 20 minutes including bleeding the master.