Adam H P15 D30

No, not exactly. Though some increase can be achieved with a lead additive, it couldn't get where it needed to be and lead fouling was an issue. Here is a snip I wrote about fuels a while back: When your manual was written, the fuel available was what is called "straight run gasoline." Straight run gas is basically what boiled off the top of a distillation tower and condensed into the fuel your manual was written around (think moonshining). Very volatile and very low octane compared to what is available now and that's where the refining ended due to the technology of the time. During WW2, there was a need to fly higher and faster which required much higher cylinder pressures to and in turn required high octane fuel. It was found that high octane fuels could be found in the heavy oils at the bottom of the distillation towers (where the fuel oil and asphalt lives) but the molecules will have to be cracked using a catalyst. The other option was super heating but a catalyst can do the same at a much lower temperature. Cat-cracking was born out of this need and the cracked fuel is now blended with straight run fuel to get desired octane and volatility which are all much different that what was available pre WW2 when your manual was written. There is much, much more to this but I am not in class and it will get off topic, but you get the basics.

Yes, the process was developed for WW2, not available to the public until after the war.

Probably less than that. Refineries didn't start cracking fuel until after WW2 which gave us high octane and led engine development into the muscle car era.

You can see my brake hose routing around the upright. I added some heavy zip ties because it rubbed the upright when turning. I did this in 2012 and 15,000+ miles ago, no issues.

If you don't want to go through all the added complexity with kickdown switches and the like, you can run it safely with just the lockout cable and a switch with no ill effects. Just be sure you understand how the R10 works and I would recommend keeping the governor in the loop. I ran a 40 Ford / 59AB like this for years with no problems. Last I saw the 40, it was still going exactly like I set it up. I didn't like the "automatic" function of the kickdown and ignition interrupt so I chose to make it more manual. Still had a kick down but I would just flip the toggle switch off, lift off the gas for a second and it would shift almost silently, reverse the procedure for the upshift. All above 25mph because I kept the governor.

The back of the engine is where it will run the hottest. Gauge may not be off too much.

I couldn't give mine away, also with new brakes. Went to the yard...

Charlie's kit is the way to go especially if you want to retain the stock 15" wheels. Well thought out and well built with excellent support from Charlie. The spindles drill and tap easily, there is plenty of adjustment in the tie rods to adjust for the thickness of the caliper plates. Also running the stock castle nut and washer, installed correctly. Sometimes people need to be smarter than the spindle...

Still can't figure out where this mysterious bump steer you're experiencing is coming from...

That's hotter than my 49 runs on a 100 degree day, climbing hills with a thermostat. I would flow test the water pump and radiator... Mine is bored .040

I would not drive or park any car in SF especially a classic...

Pull the upper radiator hose and run it, see how much it pumps out. Might need to put the garden hose in the radiator to keep it at an acceptable level while testing. Then replace that flexi hose with a molded hose...

I think there was a gasket that went between the trans and bellhousing.

Just curious, what is your timing set at? Late timing causes heat too... I fought this on a 421 Pontiac a few years ago and it ended up being low flow from the waterpump. A better waterpump solved the issue.

Yes, that's the release bearing in the first picture. I would pull the bellhousing, clutch and inspect...

Vice Grip Garage (youtube) is doing a Gen 3 swap into a GM truck. He is using a 6R80 auto trans with this combo for ease of install.

Track width stayed the same with my Rusty Hope kit plus the stock 15" wheels did not rub like some other kits cause.

What's happening to make you want to change the master cylinder, besides the safety factor of a dual master?

As for timing, I would start about 6-8 BTDC and see how it does. Ultimately you may want to set initial timing to the highest vacuum reading at idle but keep within reason to avoid detonation. Yes, these engines will ping with enough timing.

Is it leaking at the axle tubes (#3) or the center section (#1)? I would clean the area well and drive around for a while to find the source of the leak.

A Runtz resistor can be added to the fuel gauge circuit, it does not care about polarity. I used a 60s Dart heater blower motor, it was a direct bolt in. My clock doesn't care. Been running on 12v for years.

THIS ^^^^^^ When I left the SF Bay Area, both riding my motorcycle and driving (old and new cars) became exponentially more enjoyable.

Sadly, I have found more and more parts will not ship to CA. Probably the "emission" or "cancer" rules makes shipping impossible or unfavorable. More than once I have driven to Reno for a Summit visit to pick up these contraband parts. There are ways around it but you need to have a friend or family in a "free" state. Examples I use are: I have a coworker that lives in Nevada. When she comes to CA, sometimes I have a package or 5 delivered to her before she leaves. I have a daughter in New Mexico that brings CA contraband items 3-4 times a year for holidays. Both car parts and other "items" frowned on by CA She recently hauled home a cat convertor for her grandfather's motorhome... There are ways around it, do you have a friend out of state that can re-box and ship it to you?

Almost, slight modifications are needed and pieces from both old/new distributors are used. 12v required for the electronic version..