Adam H P15 D30

If you are going to aftermarket wheels, up to 15X7 fit nicely and easier to find tires too. Here's 15X7 front and 15X8 rear but the rear axle is 1" narrower than stock.

Maybe try it without welting, probably look much smoother...

I've had to pull mine apart and clean all the old, rock hard grease out first when my clutch pedal was sticky.

OEMs use fuses or fuse links to protect the vehicle electronics. Size the charge wire from the alternator to the battery according to the max output of the alternator, just like the OEMs do. Same philosophy as not running 12v battery cables on a 6v car.

A dead battery and a jump start would easily overwhelm the amp gauge. A shorted cell in the battery also. If someone wants to add a fuse or fusible link, great. You don't want that to be the wire = FIRE. My 60a alternator would peg the amp meter after a long crank (sitting), glad it wasn't a 100a alternator. I dumped the ammeter and replaced with volt gauge, but it never failed. Ammeter should be ok with a 60a alternator, you'll know pretty quick if it isn't up to the task....

The only disadvantage to a higher amp alternator is hearing your amp gauge pop if you try to run a 100 amps through it. Hopefully it will just be a pop and not a fire. Make sure your primary wire from the alternator is rated for 100a.

Personal opinion... No matter how ugly a car is I believe in two things when it comes to old cars. 1. Clean, nice wheels 2. Clean windows The only things overdone in our world is the 32 Ford and the small block Chevy

Just a thought, is the pilot bushing depth different also? Does it matter?

For that price, I would buy the flywheel too if available.

If you don't have any luck finding a 230 flywheel (non FD) you can make a spacer at home with a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, a band saw or jig saw, drill and a sharpie. Will probably need longer dowel pins but it doesn't have to be machine shop precise, it's a spacer not an adapter. Is there a tooth count difference between the 2 ring gears? Not sure....

I would leave the bell housing where it is and move the engine forward 1/4 inch

The late Don C. documented this issue when he switched to an engine that originally had a fluid coupling but his problem was only starter engagement, you will also have this issue in addition to your T/O bearing issue... In your case I would make a 1/4 inch spacer between your engine and bell housing.

I take it you do not have the old rear axle? What I do is place my final rims and tires under the car where I want them with the car at ride height. Measure between the rims for the WMS distance.

How many threads on this?? Our old flatheads with low valve spring pressures, and no rocker geometry probably don't require zinc. Run too low of zinc in my HEMI and it will wipe a cam in short order. Chinese parts make it worse and happen quicker

Ironically the $15.00 purple gun from Harbor Freight sprays as well as most high end HVLP guns. Toss it when you're done. Some panel doors I sprayed with the HF gun, outside too. That's rustoleum paint also.... EDIT: I just saw this is an old post.... Oh well, I fall for it sometimes too.

I would disconnect the condenser and see if it will run. While you're in there check the wire from your points where it runs through the distributor body

Great picture! I believe Bonnie used a Browning A5

I never got my fluid drive to work well once I put dual Webbers on my 49. It seems to drag the engine down to ~200 RPM or less then stalling it. I just drive it like a standard 3 speed now. I suppose I could try a fluid change but it's been in there for years and it doesn't leak so I leave it alone. Glad you got it back on the road and running well...

Wish I didn't either

Really depends on what part of the country you live in. 5K would maybe get a prepped car sprayed here. Body work, cut and buff, you're looking in the 20-25k range at least.

This is what is needed for a non lock up 518. 2 wires...

There are 2 types of early, non computer controlled, 518s. The first is a non lock up version that requires 2 wires to engage OD. It uses a standard 727 converter and is probably the one I would look for because of that. Shortly after the lock up version came out requiring 3 wires, one for OD and another for lock up. Slightly less desirable because the lack of converter choices. Neither of these transmissions require a computer to be fully automatic, it can easily be done with a vacuum and pressure switch. My non lock up version uses a simple pressure switch installed in the governor test port and an OD on/off switch. Pressure switch locks OD out below ~40mph regardless of where the OD switch is. Pretty simple design.

If you're really worried about the strength of a post 95 8.8, cut the ends off the tubes and weld large bearing 9" ends on it. Then have some 9" axles made up, it is already 31 spline. Just as strong as a 9" and in some ways even stronger...

No, I just throw them in the trash. Does one of your distributors have points? Throw it in and give it a try, you have nothing to loose at this point.

Yes, timing was everywhere +/- 15 degrees. This started after 5 years of trouble free driving.