Adam H P15 D30

Yes, what are you planning to do for a parking brake?

If it's just that one cylinder, I would drop a new piston in there, clean up any marks in the head and move on.

15x7 with 3.5 inch backspace - 205/60/15 front tires aired up to max sidewall pressure 15x8 with 4 inch backspace - 235/60/15 rear tires aired to 35psi I do have an 8" Ford rear axle which was slightly narrower than stock. No tire rub.... ever

A long time ago, on this forum, someone adapted a ?Mustang? steering box. I believe the Mopar pitman arm fit as well.

One last suggestion... Do the floors first before you deplete your funds on a engine swap. Floors are no-joke! Don't underestimate the amount of work floors bring.

I am just remembering when I was in HS... Got a 39 Plym business coupe my sophomore year Got it running and driving stock junior year, too slow. Swapped a 413 / 4spd mid-senior year because I thought it would be better. Sold it that summer for a muscle car because it wasn't my thing. Wish I had it back now Started missing it in my 30's

Have you thought about getting it running and stopping as is? That way you can drive it a little and see if you like the car before you tear it apart for years and sink a bunch of money in it. Having a shoestring budget usually means engine swaps and other large projects can take a lot of time. Having a large budget, these projects can be done in short order. Nothing worse than sinking lots of time and money into a project only to find out you don't like the car.

Yes, I am talking about going that slow. When a highway turns into a mountain pass with slow turns and steep grades, something we see out here in the west quite often. Pull over at the top of the pass, pull OD handle out, proceed... Did that many times in my Ford with an R10. Not to say I didn't love the R10, I did. Just noting a downside depending on your geography. For some in the flatlands it will probably never be an issue and I always thought of it as part of the charm. If I was retrofitting a different trans into a driving (done?) car I would pay the extra $$$$$ for an R10, if I was building it I would put something better in it (T5 / TKO). Either way, I really wouldn't care that I modified it. No stocker is ever safe in my garage

One distinct advantage a modern 5 speed has over an R10, especially if you live where there are hills, is the ability to have an OD WITHOUT freewheeling. Not having to stop and disengage the OD cable when going over mountain passes so you don’t cook the brakes on the downhill. My son has a D150 /6 833OD and those ratios are awful!

Another good reason t go to the 8.8, it has a speed sensor in the top of the housing. I use it for my electric speedometer.

Check Posies for replacement springs. Either way you will have to come up with some traction device with the narrow leaf springs to avoid wheel hop.

An 8.8 will handle anything that little V6 will throw at it, no worries there. The Mustang crowd throws much more than that at it. I retrofitted a Tanks gas tank for a 46-48 Ford in my 47. It has provisions for an in tank fuel pump.

The Ford pattern will be the same. No need to swap to disc brakes in the rear, drums are fine unless you’re planning to road race it. Make sure to measure the width and compare it to what you need. Rangers are narrower than Explorers.

6 cylinder Jeeps break Dana 44's.

Oh, and if you want a "modern" driving vehicle, dump the OE front suspension for something more "modern." I would do a Volare or GM clip before I put a Mustang II in. less work

I second the 8.8 Ford. You could get away with the Jeep 8.25 with 300HP but add that blower and the 8.25 will be crying for mercy... The 8.8 will just smile at it. I would upgrade the axles in the 8.8 after installing the blower, that's it.

Going to an 8" Ford rear axle in my 49 gave me: 1. Endless choice of gear ratios 2. No more tapered axles!!!! 3. Much better drum brakes (no special tools needed) 4. Forced me to get rid of the ball and trunion driveshaft for a smoother ride But, I don't leave anything stock so I may be biased?

As stated, that is Camaro or similar, 2nd gen with front steer. You will have to modify the radiator support to fit around the steering box but it will fit. It is hard to see how they grafted it to the Plymouth frame but what I can see doesn't look too bad. I have seen some sketchy subframe jobs! I cut the frame just ahead of the steering box and it clears my front fenders by an inch or so. Bumper brackets will also have to be modified. For the V8, you may also have to modify the inner fender panels I found the track slightly too wide for a P15. This could probably be handled with a custom offset wheel set, I opted for Fatman narrow control arms. Also note the radiator support you will have to fab. Steering is close but manageable After looking at your pictures again, your engine is too far forward and will interfere with your radiator. Move it back as far as you can. Please post close up pictures of where the 2 frames meet.

Just purchase a Runtz resistor from Speedway or Amazon for your fuel gauge. Cheap and easy

This ^^^^^ My 49 has no damper and is smooth as silk. Probably the pressure plate or fluid drive unit. If the engine is that far off balance, you have more problems than a damper could fix.

Careful putting a cover over a hot resistor, they need to stay cool

If they are both 3 speed manual transmissions, they should interchange. Only problem is most Wayfarer transmissions (including mine) are "stubby" They used a short trans in Wayfarers so you may need a longer driveshaft. Tape measure is your friend.

Just change your heater fan out to 12 volts. I used one from a 60s Dodge Dart, your results may vary

If you run the valves, you need a 2lb for the front and 10lb for the rear. I run neither and never had a problem What master cylinder are you running?

I have to ask why bother? If it's for the 'coolness' part or a neat 'gizmo' from the day, I totally get it! No need to answer the why. If you're actually looking for a benefit, I'd look elsewhere. These engines will run on anything combustible and last many more miles than most will drive them.