Adam H P15 D30

Just curious, what is your timing set at? Late timing causes heat too... I fought this on a 421 Pontiac a few years ago and it ended up being low flow from the waterpump. A better waterpump solved the issue.

Yes, that's the release bearing in the first picture. I would pull the bellhousing, clutch and inspect...

Vice Grip Garage (youtube) is doing a Gen 3 swap into a GM truck. He is using a 6R80 auto trans with this combo for ease of install.

Track width stayed the same with my Rusty Hope kit plus the stock 15" wheels did not rub like some other kits cause.

What's happening to make you want to change the master cylinder, besides the safety factor of a dual master?

As for timing, I would start about 6-8 BTDC and see how it does. Ultimately you may want to set initial timing to the highest vacuum reading at idle but keep within reason to avoid detonation. Yes, these engines will ping with enough timing.

Is it leaking at the axle tubes (#3) or the center section (#1)? I would clean the area well and drive around for a while to find the source of the leak.

A Runtz resistor can be added to the fuel gauge circuit, it does not care about polarity. I used a 60s Dart heater blower motor, it was a direct bolt in. My clock doesn't care. Been running on 12v for years.

THIS ^^^^^^ When I left the SF Bay Area, both riding my motorcycle and driving (old and new cars) became exponentially more enjoyable.

Sadly, I have found more and more parts will not ship to CA. Probably the "emission" or "cancer" rules makes shipping impossible or unfavorable. More than once I have driven to Reno for a Summit visit to pick up these contraband parts. There are ways around it but you need to have a friend or family in a "free" state. Examples I use are: I have a coworker that lives in Nevada. When she comes to CA, sometimes I have a package or 5 delivered to her before she leaves. I have a daughter in New Mexico that brings CA contraband items 3-4 times a year for holidays. Both car parts and other "items" frowned on by CA She recently hauled home a cat convertor for her grandfather's motorhome... There are ways around it, do you have a friend out of state that can re-box and ship it to you?

Almost, slight modifications are needed and pieces from both old/new distributors are used. 12v required for the electronic version..

For those that want to try more a drastic change, I installed a 3.0 rear axle with 26" tires. I consistently run 70MPH which is about 2800 RPM. Slow speed performance is still acceptable for a lighter vehicle. Some of the heavier Desoto and Chrysler models, not so sure.

Distributor won't care. Make sure you change the coil to a 12v one and you will need a total of about 3 ohms of primary resistance to keep the points happy. And get the leads on the coil correctly for - ground. Good time to do a slant 6 ignition upgrade?!?

I can only speak to how Ford does it but I assume others are the same. The locking mechanism you speak of is a simple inertia lock, all mechanical. The buckle (which is attached to the seat frame) has a small explosive charge that pulls the seat belt tight when airbags are deployed.

Below is a picture of my 47 with a front steer gen 2 Camaro clip. I retained the factory collapsible steering shaft and a 70s GM collapsible column. The steering shaft is not in line with the column. @Eneto-55 No amount of additional bracing will help the B-pillar on a 4 door (if that's what you have). I could bend that pillar with a couple of good kicks. A shoulder belt would bend that pillar instantly and loosen the entire 3 point seat belt in the process, that's going backwards from what you need. This is why modern cars add a pretensioner that pulls the belt tight when airbags deploy. A 2 door or coupe could possibly be feasible but the roof would have to be significantly reinforced also as it would collapse loosening a 3 point seat belt. In reality, without energy absorbing engineering built into these cars, like modern vehicles, the goal is probably to just not get ejected in a wreck which is why I said what I said earlier about lap belts. If you're in a major wreck you'll probably be safer to be on a motorcycle, our vintage cars quickly become a meat grinder. Or buy modern seats with integrated seat belts and reinforce your floor. Oh, life on the edge...

Almost every modern vehicle attaches part or all of the seat belt anchor points to the seats. I don't think I would put then where you did though... In order to make shoulder belts even marginally effective, you will have to seriously reinforce your B-pillar and roof area. With the skinny B-pillar it may not even be doable. I wouldn't worry about being slammed into the steering column, it will come to you and fast. Modern vehicles use collapsible columns Part of the "charm" around driving these old vehicles

I attached lap belts to the front seat frame after I reinforced the area a little so they move with the seat. These cars will kill you in a wreck and seat belts are there just to keep you from flying out of the car. Coming to terms with this one realizes lap belts are all that's needed and shoulder belts are a waste of time. The car will still kill you but at least you're strapped in for the entire ride.

Probably every modern car uses "plastic" fuel lines, you can buy in bulk and make a tool to aid in installing the ends. My next build will use them. Check out Halfass Customs on youtube, he has done several how to pieces with the plastic fuel line.

I set mine cold mostly because of the headers I have. .002 added to the intake, .003 added to the exhaust spec. Checked one cylinder hot once and the intake was right on spec and exhaust was slightly loose. Remember, slappy valves are happy valves...

Mr. Lucas = The Prince of Darkness

When you are sure it's ignition, it ends up being fuel When you are sure it's fuel, it ends up being ignition

I do enjoy both, but the build is the ultimate challenge, driving is the reward. If I just bring a car back (like my profile 49) it will usually stay somewhat stock. If it's a body off, it gets modified and the sky's the limit (or wallet). I drive my 49 a lot, 5-10k per year but when I was driving in SF Bay Area traffic, it had to be modified a little. Those that live in the Bay Area understand the types of cars/drivers we are up against, so disc brakes and radial tires might give you just enough edge to keep out of trouble. Driving these old cars has become exponentially more fun since I escaped the Bay Area for the sticks but I do drive them back to visit parents/friends. A lot of the time driving the mostly stock 49 is the most fulfilling, there is a certain charm that gets partially lost with hotrodding.

I'd check for something else wrong or loose for your bump steer. I have never had that issue with these front ends and unequal length steering rods.

Exactly ^^^^^^^ Easy to disassemble / reassemble so no need to leave the metal part out.

This is what you're looking for. I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added. Did it in the car..