Adam H P15 D30

Distributor won't care. Make sure you change the coil to a 12v one and you will need a total of about 3 ohms of primary resistance to keep the points happy. And get the leads on the coil correctly for - ground. Good time to do a slant 6 ignition upgrade?!?

I can only speak to how Ford does it but I assume others are the same. The locking mechanism you speak of is a simple inertia lock, all mechanical. The buckle (which is attached to the seat frame) has a small explosive charge that pulls the seat belt tight when airbags are deployed.

Below is a picture of my 47 with a front steer gen 2 Camaro clip. I retained the factory collapsible steering shaft and a 70s GM collapsible column. The steering shaft is not in line with the column. @Eneto-55 No amount of additional bracing will help the B-pillar on a 4 door (if that's what you have). I could bend that pillar with a couple of good kicks. A shoulder belt would bend that pillar instantly and loosen the entire 3 point seat belt in the process, that's going backwards from what you need. This is why modern cars add a pretensioner that pulls the belt tight when airbags deploy. A 2 door or coupe could possibly be feasible but the roof would have to be significantly reinforced also as it would collapse loosening a 3 point seat belt. In reality, without energy absorbing engineering built into these cars, like modern vehicles, the goal is probably to just not get ejected in a wreck which is why I said what I said earlier about lap belts. If you're in a major wreck you'll probably be safer to be on a motorcycle, our vintage cars quickly become a meat grinder. Or buy modern seats with integrated seat belts and reinforce your floor. Oh, life on the edge...

Almost every modern vehicle attaches part or all of the seat belt anchor points to the seats. I don't think I would put then where you did though... In order to make shoulder belts even marginally effective, you will have to seriously reinforce your B-pillar and roof area. With the skinny B-pillar it may not even be doable. I wouldn't worry about being slammed into the steering column, it will come to you and fast. Modern vehicles use collapsible columns Part of the "charm" around driving these old vehicles

I attached lap belts to the front seat frame after I reinforced the area a little so they move with the seat. These cars will kill you in a wreck and seat belts are there just to keep you from flying out of the car. Coming to terms with this one realizes lap belts are all that's needed and shoulder belts are a waste of time. The car will still kill you but at least you're strapped in for the entire ride.

Probably every modern car uses "plastic" fuel lines, you can buy in bulk and make a tool to aid in installing the ends. My next build will use them. Check out Halfass Customs on youtube, he has done several how to pieces with the plastic fuel line.

I set mine cold mostly because of the headers I have. .002 added to the intake, .003 added to the exhaust spec. Checked one cylinder hot once and the intake was right on spec and exhaust was slightly loose. Remember, slappy valves are happy valves...

Mr. Lucas = The Prince of Darkness

When you are sure it's ignition, it ends up being fuel When you are sure it's fuel, it ends up being ignition

I do enjoy both, but the build is the ultimate challenge, driving is the reward. If I just bring a car back (like my profile 49) it will usually stay somewhat stock. If it's a body off, it gets modified and the sky's the limit (or wallet). I drive my 49 a lot, 5-10k per year but when I was driving in SF Bay Area traffic, it had to be modified a little. Those that live in the Bay Area understand the types of cars/drivers we are up against, so disc brakes and radial tires might give you just enough edge to keep out of trouble. Driving these old cars has become exponentially more fun since I escaped the Bay Area for the sticks but I do drive them back to visit parents/friends. A lot of the time driving the mostly stock 49 is the most fulfilling, there is a certain charm that gets partially lost with hotrodding.

I'd check for something else wrong or loose for your bump steer. I have never had that issue with these front ends and unequal length steering rods.

Exactly ^^^^^^^ Easy to disassemble / reassemble so no need to leave the metal part out.

This is what you're looking for. I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added. Did it in the car..

Check your old engine fans very carefully. Here's the one off my 49, made a hell of a racket when it let loose.

When doing motor swaps, sometimes the OE suspension is not an option. Hence why I went with the front steer Camaro.

Below is a list of the last 5 cars I built with IFS and my thoughts on each one. Maybe it will help you with your decision 1. 1947 Ford - Used a Volare clip - Probably the second best driving car I have! It rides excellent, handles well, good brakes, adjustable ride height. Cons: It has a massive steering box in a difficult place to deal with. If you can deal with that, good choice because you wont have to hack off your front frame to do it. Put about 80k on that car including multiple trips from California to Kentucky for the NSRA nats. I think an aftermarket company is making a smaller box now? 2. 1935 Ford - Used a TCI Mustang II kit with tubular control arms. No need to cut the frame on the Fords. Cons: Doesn't ride nearly as well as above and the steering is twitchy and I would give it a B-, but hey, it looks good. Don't drive this one as much but not because of the ride. 3. 1947 Plymouth coupe - Used a 2nd generation Camaro clip. Had to modify the radiator support to fit the steering box. Rides good and handles extremely well especially when you add the quick ratio steering box. Not twitchy at all like rack and pinion. Cons: It's too wide! I had to buy the Fatman narrow control arms to avoid buying silly looking wheels but that = $$$$$$ 4. 1956 Ford Panel truck - Again Mustang II but I used the welders series this time (same geometry) Rides better than the 35 and steering is a little less twitchy probably because it is heavier and longer. 5. 1949 Dodge - (My profile picture) Stock suspension with a Rusty Hope disc brake kit, no shock relocation, 1 coil cut. I drive this car a lot! Rain or shine! It doesn't even get a garage. On the road, this car rides the best BY FAR. It even handles acceptably, it's still a king pin suspension. I only wish it had power steering but that's only an issue when stopped and I am not as young as I once was. I will never put a rack and pinion in it because I prefer how steering box cars drive. Some time back a member here put a ?Mustang? power steering box in and it didn't require a ton of fab work. Best of all, our quirky pitman arm fit the sector. I would search for that thread but it was a long time ago.

As bad as California is, I am so glad we don't have to go through these BS inspections and argue with a 20 year old about 70 year old suspension parts. Did you have to drive it in the stall for him because it has 3 pedals on the floor?

Definitely been dechromed.

You can thin and spray Rustoleum with good results. On the can it states up to 10% I think but I mix it 2:1 with acetone and 10% enamel hardener. If it's going to live outside, you can clear it with any good quality automotive urethane clear for the UV protection.

My instructions don't have page 7, otherwise identical. Funny, on page 7 he mentions the spindle nut issue but in prior pages the pictures clearly show the spindle nut correctly installed. I would choose the third option for the spindle nut.

Instructions haven't changed. Maybe you're not getting the spacer on all the way? I had to tap mine on FWIW, Unlikely to mess up a 5/8 fine thread bolt with a 1/2 inch impact unless you can't cut simple threads...

Oh and as for the caliper bracket bolts, 1/2" impact tight with lots of red locktite worked fine.

Has his kits changed over the last 5 years, I had none of these issues. As you can see my castle nut fit fine, as did my calipers...

Probably one of the best improvements I've made all around. Made the headers clear the fuel pump by a wide margin. No fuel boiling issues and the the stock heat shield fit back into place.

Just an FYI, I tried a similar cheap HVLP gun when I shot the doors of my panel (see pictures earlier in this thread). Though it did work well for the price, I returned to my Binks when I shot the body as it laid the paint smoother. That said, if I was only planning on painting 1 car here and there the cheap HVLP gun can't be beat for the price.