Adam H P15 D30

Some time ago a member posted about adapting a Mustang? steering box but I cannot find it anymore. Is you steering box full of oil? pump the front tires up higher. I set mine to 40 PSI but they are much smaller than yours Thinner tires, 235 is a wide tire for the front King pins, bushings and thrust bearings all good and lubed? Tie rod ends lubed?

Actually it's 8 rows of 8, over 500 measurements but the block was bored .090 and I diligently searched for a thin spot. There were many that thought that block would be junk. For what ever it's worth, it was a replacement 58 truck block and never had numbers stamped into the pad like yours has. I think I used a silicon grease for the paste and I was able to mechanically measure several parts of the cylinders through the water jacket to verify the readings I were receiving were accurate. I figured I didn't want to go thinner than .125, especially on a thrust side. I got that number because that's the thickness of a lot of sleeves (when sleeving a block). Might be able to be thinner....

Check your rubber fuel lines and make sure they aren't collapsing. Fuel tank pick up partially plugged?

Not sure why your post is struck through but I may be able to help a little. I have never messed with a Dodge HEMI but have dabbled with its big brother. These blocks are thick, I doubt .060 over will be a problem. Amazon has sonic testers at a good price, make sure you get the convex probe for the round cylinder walls. I have a truck 354 block that was bored to 4.030 (that's a lot) and I thought the block was junk. Most of the guys on the HAMB thought the same also so I bought a sonic tester and measured hundreds of locations in the bores looking for that elusive thin spot. Thinnest non thrust side was .138 (2 cylinders) Thinnest on thrust side was .177 Most measurements were between .235 - .314 My sonic tester was metric so I had to convert the numbers

I've had good luck using brake pliers to attach the spring to the hinge.

One at the base of the column, one at the rack. No center support needed. Grind a groove in the shaft where the u-joint set screws contact it. Use red locktite and make sure no oil leaks can touch it.

In reality these cars aren't heavy enough and the tires are small enough you don't need to worry about hub centric wheels. Just make sure it fits over the hub...

Out of OD but handle pushed in, mine freewheeled. Not sure you would want to be in OD going up and down mountain passes

Just another tidbit of info, When I had my flathead Ferd with an R11 OD, I would stop and pull the OD lockout (OD off) when going over mountain passes. I cooked the brakes once coming down a pass in the Sierras before I learned that valuable lesson. They freewheel as you probably know...

I also had some steep geared muscle cars in my past that were daily drivers. Trick is to disconnect the tach and turn up the radio for the road trips

I've posted this before but my kid has a D150 with a stock slant 6, 833 OD and 3.55 rear gear. After driving that, I would go with a T-5

If power isn't your first priority, you could look for a 331-354 HEMI and 99% of the bench racers wouldn't know the difference unless you go with an early, early 331. Easier to find...

Oh how well I know that drill...

Not to sidetrack the conversation but Why? Seems like a lot of trouble and it's not 1950 anymore....

They are available on Amazon also....

Remember these? http://portawallshop.com/

I also appreciate the work you are doing! The T5 is a much better option than the 833 OD and I currently own a Slant 6 - 833 OD pick up combo and previously owned an S10 - T5 combo. T5 is the way to go if given the choice. In fact, if the 833 gives up (slightly noisy) a T5 will replace it.

The steering box in my 49 would leak out over a years time, I mixed a slurry of gear oil and bearing grease to the consistency of pancake batter. No more leaks.

Might as well use a set of 218 rods and 0 deck the pistons...

Your only hope is if the OD unit has the same bolt pattern as the rear of the Plymouth case and the mainshaft can be swapped. Both are unlikely as the last Packard OD I saw used the more common 4 bolt pattern on the OD case. Sniper mentioned an A833 OD, My son has an 82 D150 /6 with this transmission and I would choose a T5 long before I would use the 833 OD. With the /6 the gear spread is too wide and driveability suffers... I ended up going to a taller geared rear axle with better brakes and it has worked fine for several years now. I cruise at 65-70mph and hills aren't a real problem. Actually I think I could out pull my son's D150, up to about 80 mph. lol....

I hope that rotor is just sitting on the spindle part way and not installed fully....

Swap in a later Mustang oil pan and pick up tube for your clearance. The 302 is a little engine with a front mount distributor, should be relatively straight forward. As for a Ford in a Mopar? I see it 2 ways, 1. It's better than a Chevy (everyone does that) and 2. I've swapped a few Mopars into Fords so I guess it's fitting EDIT: You are in the right place but there aren't as many active users here as the HAMB so you will get less feedback.

Easier to just clip it

A modern seal opens up the choices of fluid you can fill it with.

Flange yoke: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2471_dana_spicer_2_2_349_dodge_flange_yoke_replacement_for_old_de.html Driveshaft I ordered with the slip yoke: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9619_1310_series_3_inch_with_spline_and_slip_driveshaft_for_chevy.html My driveshaft ended up being 59 3/4 inches and Dennys wanted to upgrade me to a 3.5 inch tube. After I spoke with them and explained the HP and Torque the driveshaft would be transmitting, they agreed to stay with the 3 inch tube.