Adam H P15 D30

I wish I took a picture but what I did is cut the bottom 2/3 off the road draft tube, flipped it so it points up, put an off the shelf PCV rubber grommet in the tube and installed a common press in PCV valve. Easy-peasy

@OUTFXD If you go the Mustang 2 route, buy from one of the reputable sellers (Fatman, TCI or the best is HEIDTS). The ones in Evilbay are from the Hoffman group and are absolute junk. The reputable manufactures will cost more but this is one of those areas you don't want to buy based on price. BTW, you will need to buy the frame stub for that above suspension, basically a clip job. Since you're doing a "clip" anyway, Dodge Dakota should be looked at.

Redo it dry and see where you end up....

I used an early Falcon 8" but those are getting a little hard to find. 8.8 Fords are a good fit and plentiful 8.25 Mopar out of a Jeep 8.75 post 64 is supposed to be an almost bolt in In any case you will need a new driveshaft made, details about that are all over this forum. You'll be happier with modern u-joints anyway Any of these choices will get you better drum or disc brakes As far as being more difficult to swap the rear axle vs. regearing? I would have to disagree, it's easier to swap the rear axle than busting stubborn drums off.

Did you apply WD40 when you were plastigaging? Been a while but I think the surface is supposed to be dry to get an accurate reading....

Maybe it's the picture but those journals don't look great, I know you said they were polished... But they will probably be ok. What are the rod clearances?

This ^^^^ Installed with NO issues

Roof looks like it came off a Stude.

You can see my vacuum reservoir right under the heater box. Came off a early 2000s F250 - 350 and has a built in check valve. The factory mounts worked perfect on the flat top of the inner fender. If you find a Diesel version, it has an electric vacuum pump too. Completely hidden when the heater duct is installed.

A reversed eye spring will accomplish 1-2 inches without coming close to de-arcing. Try Posie Super Slides, they have the correct lowering spring. Not sure about shipping though. I used them on my 47 but no pictures. Also, when using lowered springs and/or blocks it is recommended to move the lower shock (damper) attachment to the bottom spring plate. This helps with the extreme angle your dampers are at and actually allows them to work. Your current spring pack would work well in an air-over-spring set up if you choose to go that route. Here is a stock spring pack with the bottom short leaf removed and a 2 inch lowering block. Springs are still not de-arced and are very worn out.

I used a stock muffler off an early 2000s Mustang GT. Single 2.25 exhaust exiting in front of the right rear tire. May be a little louder than you're looking for, but if you run it out the back it will quiet it down some. Windows were down during these drives.

I meant a good starting point would be at 4 degrees advanced. There are several methods to optimize initial through total timing but using specs from almost a century ago is leaving a lot on the table. Example 1: P15 Tune Up 1946 1947 1948 Notes: Plug Type* AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 Auto-Lite A7-AN7, Resistor AR-8. AC 45 or 45R is one step hotter than AC44 Plug Gap 0.028 0.028 0.028 Set Resistor Plugs At 0.035 Gap Ignition Timing TDC TDC TDC Even worse is example 2: D24 Tune Up 1946 1947 1948 Notes: Plug Type AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 AC 44, Autolite A7, Champion J8 Auto-Lite A7-AN7, Resistor AR-8. AC 45 or 45R is one step hotter than AC44 Plug Gap 0.025 0.025 0.025 Set Resistor Plugs At 0.035 Gap Ignition Timing 2 Deg. After TDC 2 Deg. After TDC 2 Deg. After TDC With our extreme undersquare engines, a lot of ignition advance is not needed due to the small bore, long TDC dwell time but our fuels burn much slower than a century ago so some advance is optimal. I think I ended up at 8 degrees initial and 28-30 degrees total mechanical advance using a slant 6 distributor. Your results will vary...

I believe @wayfarer makes adapters.

Factory spec is relative to the fuels used during that time, I would set it at least 4 degrees advanced. Today's fuels are less volatile and burn slower.

Just curious, what's your timing set at? Late timing makes a lot of exhaust heat.

They flex quite a bit with radials. More than I was comfortable with.

Judging by the way your floor looks cooked above the muffler, you may have found your problem.

The second gear ratio might also be different.

Plugged muffler will get very hot even if there are no leaks

Moved from the city in June to 5 acres. Started prepping a garden area, maybe try some winter plantings? I am a complete novice at this so any tips would be appreciated. Winter temps range from 30-65 degrees, hot summers and mild fall / spring temps here. Good news is the PO left me about 2 miles of drip lines so it will all be on a drip watering system. My son breaking the ground Getting there First phase done, a little frosty this morning Still need to figure out what to do with the blackberry bush. Maybe burn it in winter?

These engines are tough. Since you have it partially apart, I'd check the valves, splash oil inside it, button up the tins and light it.

Just some food for thought. Here is how I tackled the amp gauge conundrum when I switched to a 70a alternator and I kept my stock gauges. I bought an aftermarket mini volt gauge. Here you can see it sitting next to my amp gauge. I removed the amp gauge and attached the volt gauge in its place. I glued the stock needle to the volt meter's needle and added a little color (optional). In the end, when the needle is straight down, that's 12v, anywhere to the left is charging. If it were not for the colors, nobody would know.

Just don't do anything that will require the alternator to put out full capacity. This includes: -Jumpstarting another car with your engine running -Running with a low battery -Any electrical short -Shorted cell in your battery At best your amp gauge will pop like a fuse, at worst it'll burn your car to the ground. Maybe run a 40-50a circuit breaker in the primary line from the alternator? -OR- Upgrade the primary wire from the alternator to 4ga to handle 100 amps should the need arise. That could make you amp gauge inop though... I get rid of amp gauges...

MAYBE the rear fenders but you will have to drill holes for the chrome strip. Wayfarers are the "poor man's Dodge" and share components with Plymouth, including wheelbase.