Adam H P15 D30

Rich, Is there a reason you don't connect the battery tender directly to the battery? Thanks, Adam

If you put radials on your OE rims, keep an eye on them for flexing/cracking

Yes, disassemble it and check your countershaft bearings. Usually noise in 1-2 but quiet in third is the countershaft, no power is transmitted through it in third, just freewheels so it’s quiet. Input or main shaft bearings will be noisy in every gear. Unlikely but remotely possible the pocket bearing inside your input shaft could be worn.

Yeah but the H.A.M.B. has this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hemi-tech-index.118764/ Well worth the read

Hey Radar, Just a few thoughts and my point of view when buying old cars. The way I see it is there are several factors that determine a car's value to both the seller and buyer. Also, depending on where you are in the country/world greatly effects the price of old cars. Out here in CA that is a $6500+ car all day long 4 doors and all, probably more. Not sure what your Harley's value is out here though as I ride foreign bikes If you drive the car and like it, buy it... $6k isn't like shelling out $65k and it is probably an even swap give or take a grand. I've bought every one of my cars on a whim. If I sat down to think about it first, I would probably have no old cars. If the deal and $$$$ make sense and I like it, I buy it. Never use maintenance or upkeep as a calculation on return on investment, if we did this hobby would never make sense. Oh and don't forget there is always someone out there that paid half of what you paid for a like car making you feel like you got ripped off, ignore them. I hope you get it, enjoy it and drive the wheels off of it! Adam

Use multi-weight oil.... It was designed for that purpose, especially with 6v.

Point I was making is you don't need to do anything, 12v just makes it wind a little faster.

I would put a fuse somewhere in the circuit. Curious, what did converting it to 12 volts consist of? My 6v clock has been running on 12v for years now...

I run max sidewall pressure on the front tires, makes the steering a little lighter. Most never drive their old cars enough to wear out a tire due to over inflation, might as well make the steering a little easier. Adam

Dpollo, you have my full attention also... Please elaborate. Would love to add this to my Dodge

SNIP Steve, here is a side shot, the rear tires are 26" tall. Wheel wells might be slightly different shaped from a P15. I cut 1/2 coil off the front, removed the bottom leaf spring and added a 2" block in the rear.

The front tires on my Dodge are 205/65/15 on 15x7 chrome smoothies, rears are 235/60/15 on 15x8 chrome smoothies. They will be close to what you're looking at. With these short tires I use a 3.0 rear gear and it's just right. Speedo is about 20% off.

My 49 Dodge behaves the same way, started about a year ago. I have been contemplating changing the fluid in the coupling but it doesn't leak so I really don't want to mess with it. Just been driving it like a normal 3 speed but sooner or later I want my FD back. Have you checked the fluid level/condition? Could be like mud, who knows... Hmmm, I think I'll check mine this weekend James Douglas has done extensive research and testing with the FD, he probably knows more about them than anyone else here. I read somewhere thicker circulating oil makes it slip more??? I would think the opposite is true. Thinking of filling mine with transmission fluid with NO seal additive and check, that would be about 7.5w. If I kill it, I've got a 440 sitting around, or just change it to a clutch and be done with it, who knows? Sorry, just thinking out loud. When it was working normally, it sure made it fun to drive...

Don't forget the Ford 8".... Maverick if you can find one 65-66 Mustang with tapered axle tubes (not desirable with hotrodders but PLENTY strong for our applications including LA V8 swaps) Ford Falcons (I used this one) Width is about 1" narrower which allowed me to fit 8" wheels under my 49.

Here's what happened, PG&E raised rates many times over the years for maintenance and upgrades that never happened. What did happen is: 1. they blew up 1/2 half of a neighborhood because they didn't do the maintenance they were supposed to do and said they did to a 3 foot gas line. We got charged for it and they again raised rates to cover the settlement. 2. stopped maintaining their fire clearance and lines and said they did and wanted to raise rates to cover the fire lawsuits 3. Punish CA by cutting power

California is the only 3rd world state in the union

Cleaned up the 36 and sold it a couple of weeks ago to buy this. Might keep this one??

If not, you could always find an early 90's 518 that is a 1 or 2 wire hook up.

Probably an RE, takes a computer

I spliced mine under the front body mount, 71 GM clip

Exact same results when I changed mine out from the NAPA GL1 to the MT 90. Since you will probably never have to change it again, price is worth it....

Now might be a good time to go to 12 volts to eliminate all that complexity???

With a little work and creativity, a volt meter can be adapted to the ammeter location, needle straight down at battery voltage, moves to the charge side when running. As long as it is on the charge side, you're over 13v.

Ammeters are a fire hazard. Actually having all your loads at one connection point is the biggest fire hazard.

Always buy a new fan electric or mechanical then trim it down, don't trust a 75 year old fan....