Adam H P15 D30

Another Sunday drive after being gone for 2 weeks. It looked like this when we left, picture from dad following me. Looked like this a couple of hours later. All in all put about 100 miles on the cars yesterday.

I tripped over my 3.91 rear axle for 2 years before I gave it away to the first taker. multiple posts for sale, multiple posts for free before I found a taker. Delivered it too... Adam

Hello Oldtimelampshop, That's a good looking convert you have there, glad to see it's being saved and enjoyed as they are meant to be. Some suggestions below: 1. Champion makes a good radiator and the hose connections will be in the proper locations for your SBC. I would add an external plate type transmission cooler in front of the radiator. 2. You may have to do some inner fender panel work to clear the heads and exhaust. Also set the engine to the passenger side a little to clear the steering box, exhaust (headers or manifolds) will probably be a trial and error type situation but hey that's hotrodding... 3. I would look for an explorer 8.8 rear axle. Bolt pattern will be correct, many gear ratios, EZ to find parts, come in disc or drum brakes. Tape measure will be your guide. OR I used a Falcon 8" Ford RR in my 49 and it was a perfect fit but depending on the HP of the SBC, an 8" might be too light duty... I have used Denny's driveshaft for many hotrods and they have always been perfect. 4. Definitely go to disc brakes. I recommend Olddaddy's brake kit and he is a forum member here. Also excellent support with off the shelf parts. rustyhope.com 5. A SBC swap shouldn't be a mind boggling as some here would have you believe. You will have to cut out the existing transmission crossmember and fab a new one but that's easy. If we can stuff a SBC in a model A and keep the hood, this should be easy. If you run into length problems, the radiator can be mounted on the front side of the radiator support for a few inches. 6. Take your time and enjoy the journey. Problem solving is essential to a modified build, anyone can bolt together a stocker but it takes a real man to cut one up Good luck, enjoy the build for what it is and in the end you will have a car that anyone can jump in and drive, crafted with your own hands... Adam

I can't speak for the owner, but I'll bet he changed to logo to keep this site active and relevant. Much the same as Goodguys and others keep extending the cut off years to their shows, they smelled death. Keep this stuff up and this forum will get as dead as the POC forum. I really don't remember the OP asking for anyone's approval for his choice. Since we have ALL successfully driven this thread completely off the rails, it will probably be locked and another future contributor will be gone. Now we can all go back to our usual and stale arguments, excellent job guys! Fresh minds / fresh ideas? not here....

I think you and others have never read the logo for this site. Now you and others on this thread have successfully driven off a new forum member, it's a wonder this forum is still alive with posts like this. Perhaps you, and you know who you are here, should stay on the POC forum? Isn't that the zero tolerance place? If the guy wants to drop a SBC in it, that's his business. What isn't cool is some here just can't accept anything but stockers.... This site is for both!

At least, depending on where you are. This was 8k in the Bay Area, CA

I've always added .001 intake and .002 exhaust when I set them cold, sometimes a little more. The gaps close over time and also every time the engine heats up. Remember, "slappy valves are happy valves." I have been doing this for years and I have never set them hot, ever...

Just cut the rivets off the spring plate on the top of the lower control arm, move it to the bottom of the control arm and bolt it back in place. I’d use grade 8 bolts. Gives you about 2 inches. Sorry, no pictures.

Now’s the time to relocate that spring plate to get the car down a little

If you are keeping the points, measure the resistance across the + and - posts of the coil and make sure your total primary resistance is correct. I believe it should be 3K ohms total in the primary circuit. So if your coil has 1.5k ohms primary resistance built into it, you need to add a 1.5k ohm resistor to the power wire to the coil. In all it should add up to 3k ohms or point life will suffer.

My glass fuel filter on the pressure side fills with gas. Empties when the car sits for a week.

Do your research carefully on the reliability of the Pertronix modules. Then make sure to order a spare to keep in the car so you are not stuck somewhere when it does crap out.

It only takes one time to make a believer. And yes, as stated above fatigue around the rivets.

Don't use a 70 year old fan.... EVER. Get rid of it and get a new one / save your hood, radiator, life... Ask me how I know. They should all be wall hangers

Been using my 6v starter on 12v for years with no issues.

My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.

If you’re going to swap a V8, put a Mopar V8 in it and leave the SBC’s for the belly-button cars

Will you be driving up to the Half Moon Bay show in April? Hope to see you there

I can’t recall the year but I believe they were Volare. There was a mix and match of bearings and an adapter to make it all work. It’s all listed clearly in Olddaddy’s parts list. Won’t work without his adapter. Very happy and has been problem free for years now. I think it’s worth the couple hundred bucks to purchase a proven kit, and I like to engineer my own stuff but sometimes it’s better to purchase.

This works well for me, no oil loss or fumes... Cut the tube off, flip it upside down and seal it to the block with an o-ring.

3.0 gears in my Wayfarer became the perfect gear after I changed the rear tires to 26" diameter. With the 29" tires it was way too tall, I'm running a 230.

I agree with you and Tim on the benefits of multi carbs and dual exhaust so I'm not sure why you're targeting me, but since you asked... My redline is somewhere around 4500, give or take My flathead can't run to 6000, why would I try? There is no need to run it up that tight I don't have a video of my flattie runnin. I just drive the $hit out of it My F150 revs to 6K faster than that Velociraptor I don't care if Tim or others stay away because their feelings get hurt

I'm not saying it can or can't but I could snap a Briggs&Stratton to 6k with no load. It sure seems like this "Velociraptor" struggles a bit to get there....

Yes, 1 loop cut off

Actually you would be better off with longer rods. If you don't have new pistons yet, have some made with a slightly higher wrist pin + you get a modern piston / ring design. If I ever go through my 230, I'll install 218 rods with shorter more modern pistons. On edit: assemble 1 cylinder and see how far the piston actually comes out. Some of these engines don't come all the way to the deck, might be ok with fly cutting the piston a little???? But then you still have a 4 ring pack long heavy piston.