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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. I painted the roof of my 49 with Rustoleum through a paint gun and it came out really good. The main difference is you can add hardener (catalyst) if you are using a gun. The hardener makes the paint really glossy and hard, it also cuts drying time significantly.
  2. Yes, the plugs work well, less of a mess also
  3. Check the ports in the bottom of the reservoir and make sure they are not plugged
  4. Yes, the residual pressure valve is removed as part of the disc brake upgrade. It's a non-issue
  5. @Edward Garcia Yes, I made a mess and let the fluid squirt out while the pedal was depressed, plugging the holes on the return. As sniper said above, only take a few pumps. Was the bore in the master cylinder clean when you took the plug out? Did you check for gunk in there?
  6. ^^^^^Exactly as Sniper said, if you don’t bleed the master cylinder first you will never get a pedal. I disconnected the lines at the back of the master cylinder and had my son depress the brake pedal. Plugged the holes from the lines with my fingers when he let up. Repeated until I had a good solid stream of fluid. Reconnected the lines and went to the front brakes first. Keep an eye on that fluid level.
  7. Thought you may enjoy this little diversion while we're all locked up
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  8. Lots of recent threads on this, I used Rusty Hope and couldnt be happier. The spindles are soft as butter so tapping was an easy process.
  9. Glad to hear, does the pedal stay high after it sits overnight?
  10. No, hoses don't care which side they are mounted on. When you remove it to replace the washers, inspect the caliper casting carefully for burrs or damage that might be causing the washers to not seal. You could also heat the washers with a propane torch till you see the copper start to turn color then let them cool slowly. I've seen some pretty hard washers before and done this a few times. Make sure to take a good look at the washers you remove to check the impression left from being compressed.
  11. That's 15 minutes more work than I got done on my projects I always do the disc brakes first as they take the most fluid. One trick I have learned is to NOT pump the brake pedal but slow movements full stroke until you get good fluid at the bleeders. Keep an eye on that reservoir level..
  12. Also, that reservoir is small, make sure to keep an eye on the fluid as the calipers fill.
  13. No problem bleeding the brakes.... Try removing the lines at the master cylinder and use your fingers to seal the holes while you have someone in the car slowly cycling the brake pedal, kind of like an on car bench bleed. Is there pressure? Check the holes at the bottom of the reservoir for obstructions, use a wire to clean them out. Was there any crud in the bore of the master cylinder when you took the rear cap off to remove the valve? I sprayed some crap out of mine while I was there.
  14. My guess would be the unique rear axle and only a 4.30 or 4.9 ratio available.
  15. I believe he is running a HEMI
  16. I'm pretty sure that's what I used but I didn't move my hard line mounting point. Wish I had a better picture...
  17. The factory valve will be too much for disc brakes, been there - done that. Remove it and try without any valve, you may be pleasantly surprised as I was years ago.
  18. With 4.3 gears, get an adapter and use a 518 OD or a 200 4R.
  19. Are you running stock 15" wheels? If so, check clearance with the Scarebird kit installed.
  20. Contact Wayfarer here on the forum (73RR on the HAMB), he has what you need. Either way an adapter is in your future.
  21. I took the rubber out of the valve and reinstalled the metal part. Is you rear axle disc or drum brakes? I am using this on the 49 with the flathead. The HEMI car has 4 wheel power disc brakes. Nothing stock except the body and the middle 6 feet of frame.
  22. Yes, at the time I was thinking about adding the residual pressure valves but I tried it without them. That was ~5 years ago and thousand of miles ago.
  23. Hello Michael, I run a 3.0 rear axle with 235.60.15 (26") rear tires, runs about 3000 RPM at 70 and works well with no overdrive. Just wish I had a taller 2nd gear... When I commute regularly I get about 18-19 mpg. I have a 2.8 gear set I may try but for now it works. Remember I have a short rear tire, better to choose a shorter and lighter tire and adjust your gear ratio to match instead if cramming a large heavy tire in there. Adam
  24. I used the gaskets to make mine. Lots of measuring, fitting, measuring and starting over.... In the end it worked great
  25. This should help Weber Vacuum Ports.pdf
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