Adam H P15 D30

I guess I am lucky, my wife has a vinyl cutter for making t-shirts etc. and I have found the program and cutter makes perfect gaskets.... Sadly it all came to an end when she found out what I was doing. Here is an article I found that gave me the idea and gives the settings needed.

I don't like ammeters but that's a personal choice... When I added a 70a alternator verses a 40a ammeter I decided it was time to change to a volt meter but I wanted to install it in place of the ammeter and not as a separate gauge, another personal choice. Here's what I did... Original ammeter New gauge attached to ammeter face I left the numbers and glued the original white needle on. Straight down is 12v any movement to the left is charging Picture with engine running

Keep in mind the type of coil you use will determine the spark plug gap.

If you don't cut it out and weld new stuff in the rust will be back. Maybe not an issue in the fender well but anything visible will bubble back up shortly.

Langdon makes a nice dual carb linkage. Still some fab work to do on your end. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-linkage-kit-for-2-Weber-32-36-carbs/p/108016195/category=18665965 it says for Weber carbs but it’s universal

I’m running 235/60/15 with a 3.0 rear gear in my 49. Works well, may try 225/70 though. The 235/75 I had made the gear too tall.

What size tires are you running? I know you said "smaller" just curious

Not exactly, I was not referring to those who choose to drive at certain speed, I was referring to those who tell others not to and it's unsafe. The "father and son" story is closer to the latter.

People have been modifying cars since the day 1, it's in our blood.... Seeing people posting about roll over protection or other features that new cars have makes others think our cars belong in a museum and not on the road, and is a killer to our hobby regardless is you like stockers or hot rods. I have had people ask me if I feel safe at 70mph in these old cars or state driving an old car is a risk to others. Let's not perpetuate that talk or it could find itself legislated. These cars will handle 60-80 mph just fine on stock suspension, brakes of the era should be upgraded but I have driven 30's cars with beam front axles for hours at higher speeds and they do just fine. All my cars have disc brakes... If you're scared to push the envelope a little, maybe take up something safer like knitting Oh, and I would drive that 37 DeSoto conv at 80mph all day with suspension that's not worn out and disc brakes. Maybe shim the axle a little to add some caster too....

Use the new fluids that are specified for manual transmissions to avoid the blocking ring wear. Gear oil has changed so much I wouldn't even use the NAPA GL1 anymore. As discussed on another thread, the Redline MT fluid seems to work well in our old gear boxes, I know it works great in mine. Vast improvement in shifting verses the NAPA GL1 that it replaced. When it shifts easier and grinds less, the blocking rings are doing their job better.

Mine is equipped with the standard single action pump but when I built the headers, I moved them far away from the block so a dual action pump would probably fit.

This is why you don't install old fans. Maybe 1 in 1000 will fail, but watch out when they do.

You can see my reservoir in this picture, gives about 20 seconds of wiper action at full throttle. This was a worthwhile mod and is mostly hidden under my fresh air duct. I have since added a small 12v vacuum pump and that adds about 5-10 seconds of wiper action at full throttle. Reservoir and pump are out of a 1999-2010 Ford Superduty Diesel.

I sprayed mine with copper coat on both side of the head gasket, sprayed the block and head. No problems in thousands of miles. Regardless of which head gasket, use the copper coat. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-80697?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjww_f2BRC-ARIsAP3zarF0n7Ab-NmOFiGAd38_Kdw1gKdcErfeVN_9bTeI4eeFnNe15Kq2ecAaAn1yEALw_wcB

When I changed to the Redline MT fluid, it was a MAJOR improvement over the NAPA GL1 oil. FWIW... My issue was a crunchy 1-2 shift, especially cold. The Redline oil completely solved it

Lately I seem to be the roaming SD, especially in the 2nd and 3rd degrees. I enjoyed that chair the most.

Same car, same 3 speed with Fluid Drive Transmission: I have tried modern 85/90 GL4-5 with less than desirable results. Quickly switched to NAPA GL-1 90wt with better results Now I have Redline MT90 manual transmission fluid and this is by far the best. Big shifting improvement. Fluid Drive: Haven't touched it because it doesn't leak, but it also doesn't work very well. It really drags the engine down at idle so I may experiment?? May need to revisit the FD but for now I drive it like a standard 3 speed.

Why yes I am... Francis Drake Lodge #376 South San Francisco Master 2012-2013 You?

Nothing substantial is different, did you compare both the primary and secondary resistance? Either way it should run just fine, it's just a coil...

Yes it can be done on the car easily

Looks good. Take a carbide bit and knock the sharp edge off where it transitions to your combustion chambers before you install. I've said it a lot, if I were to ever go through my 230 again, I would install 218 rods and buy pistons that came to 0 deck. Pistons below the deck are a quench-killer but if you're a few thousandths below it will be fine.

With those valve clearances you could shave another .080 off and be safe. On the OHV engines I build I try to keep the valve to head clearances to no less than .125.

Last year I drained the NAPA GL-1 out of my 3spd and filled with Redline MTL, Big improvement in shifting....

https://www.rustyhope.com He has everything you need

The offset really isn't an issue. If your running a low HP engine the Cherokee axle will be fine, if you're going to put any power down the 8.8 would be a better option. Most V8 transplants require an offset to the right anyhow.