Adam H P15 D30

Radial tires and stock rims? Check the rims carefully for cracks...

I used 1971 Camaro clip because I had one but if I were to do it again, I would've used a Dakota for several reasons: 1. bolt pattern - MOPAR (not too much of an issue as most aftermarket wheels are drilled for both) 2. I wouldn't have to spend $$$$$ on narrowed control arms but they look cool... front track width is good with 15x6 rims now. It is low, bottom of front bumper is about 4" off the ground. I don't do air ride so I'll have to be careful. I butt welded the Camaro rails to the Plymouth rails, they would not fit inside. Plated 360 degrees around the splice with rosette welds and lap welds. The plus side is the frame rails are wider on the Camaro subframe compared to the stock frame and Dakota frame. With headers there was an inch gap between the exhaust and frame rail. Since you are thinking early HEMI, measure carefully or Hot Heads sells good flowing iron manifolds if you run out of room. Front steering made it all possible, no steering box in the way. but a small mod for the radiator support. Here is an old mock up picture showing the stance. I removed the front springs and blocked the Camaro front end to ride height, set the Plymouth to my desired ride height and let the tape measure, plumb bob and sawzall do the rest. This is BEFORE the narrowed control arms. I had to cut the shelf off the inner fenders and make new lower pieces. Completed The engine is offset to the right about 1.5 inches which lines it up with the offset Ford 8.8 rear axle perfectly. I have driven the car and though MOPAR had good front suspension this was a major improvement in ride, braking, and handling compared to my 49 Dodge with stock suspension. I will not do this to my 49 only because there is a "charm" driving an old car that gets lost with modern parts. The car is now back apart for finishing, upholstery, and paint. I will road trip this vehicle so I want it finished. ~year or two... Hope this helps, Subframing is no small task but much better choice than frame swapping and ending up with a car looking like it's sitting on the wrong frame.... Adam

Below are some shots from my 47 Plymouth build with an early HEMI and a Camaro clip. It should be very similar to a Dakota clip except I had to buy narrowed control arms and you probably won’t have to. I grafted it just below the firewall and had to mod the radiator support slightly for the steering box. Still uses a stock radiator.

I've had good luck with AC plugs. Never had a problem with Autolites either for that matter.... About 4k miles on the AC plugs now.... R45's I think. Adam

You need to find one of these Edmunds 2x2 wet intakes. They used them on Allards and incorporate 2 stock carbs. The carbs shown here had the kickdown switches on them $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ HEMI PARTS $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Running my 6v starter on 12v for years now without issue, I would say that starter was wasted long before he started jumping it with 12v.

I've used a company called E-Stopp that has an electric parking brake actuator that utilizes your existing park brake cables / hardware... I would not call a line-loc a park brake, should be mechanical. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-ESK001-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html?sku=142100&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuLPnBRDjARIsACDzGL3_NO5XS2iWrrlKZ8PJmNqCwwfk-dJyL2iCoMTXSdYbEKWZHR6jNKMaAgcxEALw_wcB Adam

It's a Midland Ross and only works in single circuit systems. Just google Midland Ross remote booster or it is in every streetrod classifieds.

I've used these before with good results....

Near the bottom of the page http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/

Fatman sells or used to sell Chevy Cavalier rack kits for your car. There are better options with certain steering boxes but I don't have the links handy. Also, there is a recent thread on the car main page talking about some of these options. None of the potential doner vehicles you mention are rack&pinion, in fact they are front steer cars so the boxes would not work in your application.

Can you use your old bell, clutch set up and flywheel? Just compare the crank flange protrusion from the back of the block with your old engine. Don C knows this scenario well....

I use large cable ties when I install Vintage Air systems. Tape always seems to come off and a worm clamp might be hard to access??

If you do any "upgrades" make sure the new "upgraded" parts are available at regular parts stores. Specialty stuff like Pertronix or MSD are out.... I would recommend 12v so you can easily find light bulbs, headlamps, alternator....on the road if needed.

That's part of the "charm" ?

Just sucks a little oil on long decels. After reading through all these it might just be a flaw in my design but the draft tube rarely dripped oil, who knows. Also the breather on the drivers side seems to be doing more “breathing” during a long freeway drive at speed. ~70 mph. Never did this before the PCV mod. Compression is good, fairly fresh rebuild.

That's how I chose my PCV valve and my guess was wrong.

Ken, Exactly right! I guessed on my PCV valve and the results are less than spectacular... When you guess like I did, you get mixed results. Maybe the cost of the PCV James mentioned isn't so bad, can tune for any scenario?

Whoa, $130.00 for a PCV valve? Interesting concept but not sure I would spend that on a PCV. FWIW, my coolant heated PCV valve on my V10 Excursion is less

Unless your condenser is bad, I would not replace it with a modern one, points are hit-and-miss with modern garbage... Even though I went to electronic, I still scour the swap meets for NOS or older replacement ignition parts. No flathead 6 parts anymore though....

PCV is basically a "controlled" vacuum leak with backfire protection. It requires manifold vacuum to operate properly. This brings up another topic, with the low HP of these engines, what is the average vacuum reading at freeway speeds, 55-70 MPH? I have never checked but if it's low especially pulling a long grade, might be better off with the draft tube??? Engine will have low vacuum when there is the most blow by where the draft tube will be functioning well because of the road speed. Cruising around town probably wouldn't be an issue. Adam

Modern cars use the air conditioning to dry the air in defrost mode. Without AC, your blowing either outside humid air or inside humid air on the windshield. I also drive my 49 a lot including rainy days so like Greg says, keep a rag handy to wipe the windshield. FWIW, my heater works very well and very warm with a 160 thermostat, engine runs at 170, electric fan kicks on at 185 and off at 170 so hot days it sits around 180. Adam

Sorry if I am taking this off topic.... James - Do you have a picture of your PCV set up? I found mine sucks a little oil on long decels. My engine is fairly fresh with good compression, I am probably going back to the draft tube....

You did well....

These houses generally start at 1,000,000 or thereabouts, 10-12% increase YOY is the norm....