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Go Fleiter

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About Go Fleiter

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 05/03/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Düsseldorf, Germany
  • Interests
    My Plymouth 1951
  • My Project Cars

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born in Münster, grown up in Milan / Italy, Studies in Göttingen, Köln, Buenos Aires -Argentina
  • Occupation
    Dentist, retired


  • Location
    Düsseldorf, Germany
  • Interests
    My 51Cranbrook P23 conv., Model railroads,

Recent Profile Visitors

557 profile views
  1. I have a type 2 OD and provided a toggle switch to unpower the OD Relais. to engage the OD engine should be uncoupled, pushing the clutch to disengage the engine should be pulling thus pushing the gas pedal a moment. (warning: sorry, I didn´t drive for a coulpe of weeks, I hope my memory doesn´t fool me...) At first, I had left the appropriate cable and handle off, but the free wheeling at lower speed disturbed me too much. btw. I didn´t install the kick- down switch. It´s crude function does not seem appropriate for such an old car. (all speeds are speedometer radings! GPS: take 10% off)
  2. With given perfect conditions (engine, cooling, trans, overdrive, shocks...) my P23 makes 81 mph (130 kmh) with 2200 rpm for hours, interrupted only by fill-ups :)) I don´t know gear ratios, but George Ashe had sent me "faster "gear wheels On less than perfect roads the running gear is the limitation: you will get seasick! Mine has a sway- bar, maybe it is even worse without! And while reaching even 87 mph, You must remember the 60 mph brakes!! Our constant travelling speed is75 mph, also the noise is more acceptable then. Without overdrive riding is very uncomfortable in Germany´s today´s hectic traffic Greetings! Go (all the speeds are speedometer readings! For GPS values take 10 % off)
  3. simply beautiful! The car and the story! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  4. Sniper´s hint may be rigtht! If not: check the gas lines too. And change that wobbeling pulley, it will overly wear the crankshaft bearings! Good Project! You will do it!! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  5. I use the car jack to hang a poster on it with some of these fotos https://p15-d24.com/profile/379-go-fleiter/?tab=field_core_pfield_18 My Europe map is frequently studied by visitors: This Coke Cooler once hat to carry temperature sensitive medicine ampuls for my late first wife,. We put those into a thermos jug filled with crushed ice and the jug into the coller box, filled with crushed ice too. 2 thermometers gave us information from the insides of both box and jug. Jug was maintained below 32 deg. F (=0 deg. C) for ~ 35 hrs in summer. Now it holds caps, gloves, shawls and glasses. The backseat holds cheap decorations, the Bush radio is an imitation. My wife found these Samsonites: when travelling, we use them to carry our things..With a very special arrangement, the all fit the trunk. Greeetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  6. could become a very nice car! Keep us informed! Greetings! Go
  7. Hallo! my 1951 P23 came with one wide braided strap from the batt ground to one of the bolts of the cylinder head. The bolt´s hex head has a smaller tapped hole for an extra screw to hold the strap´s contact eye. The P23 engine sits in rubber mountings, so ground has to take a long way over accessories as generator, gas linkage, transmission, propeller shaft.... That is sufficient and works until age and rust let resistances between engine- frame- body- parts grow. On these old cars I provide at least one additional ground between batt and body. Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  8. Very nice!! Thanks for posting! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  9. I got my 51 with DOT 5 silicone fluid. Most others are Alcohol based. As said before, they cannot mix and some rubber cups are not compatible. You can let your brake fluid test to have it identified, and I suggest to continue with the existing. Silicone DOT 5 has a couple of advantages: it does not absorb water - thus does not age and is nearly maintenance - free, it does not promote rusting, it is self- lubricating, it is not heat sensitive as alcohlic varieties (very high boiling point), our military uses silicone DOT 5 in stored tanks, trucks, ships to have them immediately ready for use. disadvantages: not mixable with others, system must be cleaned perfectly when cahnageing to it -as said before. Purpur code colour is not durable and not good for safe idnetification after some years. And be careful: DOT 5.1 is NOT mixable beeing alcoholic type. best practice: if ever possible, stay with what You have! Greetings from Düsseldorf
  10. beautiful, couple and car!!
  11. 1.) You should prefer alternators with built- in regulators, leaving the old regulator only as terminal clip for the wires. Alternators can be found in modern or old-style housings, + or - gnd, 6 or 12 V. https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=545 I don´t know if generator regulators are compatible with alternators. 2.) Our common regulators have no polarity. Maybe You may have to polarize a new generator. 3.) You should prefer a high- rated regulator, if You have the choice. One argument is the durability of the contacts: higher rating lasts longer. Bernbaums list different types for 1940-1942 / 1943-1955 etc... for $89,- https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-electrical.aspx If You want to change to 12 V neg. grunded I thing You can find all at Your local car supply (NAPA?). Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  12. Thank You to let us see Your travel!! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
  13. form me, adjusting the regulators is the most difficult thing! 1.) You should do it in hot conditions, if not You will find much different readings while driving later. Therefore I drive to a lonely place to let the engine run without bothering others. Because of the complexity I always had adjusted some spare regulators at the same time. 2.) some regulators have a metal arm to be bent to change the spring´s tension. If You think of making a bending tool (see manual) remember to provide a good isolation. You must bend really in very small steps, pause a moment and check the result. As today´s (chinese??) regulators suffer of wear, more than 50 yrs earlier, this procedure has to be done peroidically. I really hate it, and I ordered a solid state, 50 A 6V regulator at "Power Wagon" to replace the old electro mechanical one.~120$ When I have some practical experience, I will report it´s reliability. Another option is a modern Alternator with built in no frills regulator . ~150$ In old- fashioned case ~ 400 $, but I didn´t go into prices deeply. Greetings! Go
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