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Stewart Woollard

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  • Posts

    24
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1926 Ford roadster with a 218 Dodge flathead 6

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  • Biography
    Ex-workshop teacher, married.
  • Occupation
    Retired Teacher

Converted

  • Location
    Lansing, MI. 48911
  • Interests
    Hot Rods

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  1. Wow, thank you. You guys are much better online detectives than I am. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, Cheers, Stewart.
  2. From what I can find the heads with "Spitfire" cast on them were no different than previous 25" heads. Just wanting to know when they first came out. Cheers, Stewart.
  3. Hi guys, I've searched the web but can't find a definitive answer. Should have just come to the experts first! What was the first year that Chrysler used the Spitfire head? Cheers, Stewart.
  4. I can, and probably will do this using a '40s Ford M/C that matches the drum brakes I'm using. I wanted to know if Mopar had the same style M/C with a smaller bore, as I would use that if they did.
  5. The style of my hot rod is as if it was built in the '40s. The car will not run with a hood. The M/C will be in plain sight, so I want it era correct. The obvious answer it use the Ford M/C that was used with the '40s Ford brakes I'm using. I just wondered if Mopar used the same style M/C, but with a smaller bore.
  6. Hi, I am building a 1926 Ford Roadster hot rod. I am using a 251 engine mated to T5 transmission. I like that the truck bellhousing has the mounts for both the pedals and the M/C. The bore of the M/C that came with the bellhousing is 1 1/4". I am using early Ford drum brakes and need a smaller bore, 1 1/16". So my question is there a Mopar M/C with a bore of 1 1/16" with the same bolt pattern as my truck bellhousing? A picture of my project. Cheers, Stewart.
  7. Sorry, yes I would buy the whole engine and trans. I would then pick the best block, and use the 230 rods and crank to rebuild. Cheers, Stewart.
  8. As I am planning on rebuilding my engine soon, I just took the time to read this in one sitting. The high level of machining is fabulous. The attention to detail is incredible. Thank you so much for taking the time to document your build, I realise how time consuming that is. Being new to these flathead 6s, I don't even know what I don't know! This thread has helped enormously. Thank you again. Cheers, Stewart.
  9. Oh, I forgot to say, It won't roll over :<(. Looks like I have to pass, or take a 50/50 chance! Thanks for the help guys. Cheers, Stewart.
  10. I'm looking for a 230 crank and rods as I'm about to start on rebuilding my 218 and would like the extra cubes! I've found an engine and trans from a 1949 truck locally. When I asked for the engine#, the owner sent me this picture of the pad where the # usually is. It looks like it has never been machined, looks as cast. Is there any other way to tell if its a 218 or a 230 without having to take off the head or pan. Cheers, Stewart.
  11. I meant that if I switched to factory a 12 volt starter, I would need to switch to the factory 12 volt starter ring gear. Didn't realise that was just wrong!
  12. My "understanding" is that the 6 volt and 12 volt ring gears are different ,as the drive gear on the starter is this different. Is this correct? I have a 1948 218 truck engine I'm putting in a hot rod. It has a 6 volt starter. I'm going to use a mini HEI distributor from Langdons, so I need 12 volts. Whats the best way to go about this. Is it feasible to change the field coils in the starter or is it better to just get a 12volt starter and change my ring gear? What year was the changeover to 12 volts? I know, so many questions grasshopper :<). Thanks, Stewart.
  13. Thanks guys. Looks like I'm buying my Christmas prezzies early! Cheers, Stewart.
  14. I've got a 218 Dodge engine I am about to start a rebuild on. My plan is for a dual carb intake, tubular or split original exhaust, and skim the head. I haver never worked on these engines before. What books would you guys recommend specific to the flathead 6 ? Cheers, Stewart
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