Adam H P15 D30

Tom, We always have ample, gated driveway space in Redwood City if the need arises....

.005 taper is max allowable for most engines but sometimes that taper closes up when the head is bolted on. Also cast iron rings don't like that much taper and tend to crack. Make sure to measure the donor crank for roundness and clearance before slapping it in. If it were mine I'd ream the ridge, hone it, slap some new rings in and go. How many miles are you planning to put on this car per year?

Short video from a cruise a couple of weeks ago. Or Youtube https://youtu.be/4qDAQfzF2Tk Cruise video.mov

What do the other rod and main bearings look like?

@Doug&Deb I just removed the rubber check valve and reinstalled the "cage" it sat in. Did this while it was on the car. My 49: 7 years ago I added disc brakes, replaced the rear axle (modern drum system), removed this valve and added no other valves. When I was testing it, the rear brakes would lock up just before the front brakes. With performance like that I saw no need to add anything further. I've let this car sit for 6 months at a time and the brake pedal is right at the top when I go to move it. Once again, no reason to add anything to a properly performing brake system light years ahead of the original drum/drum system. Never a leak or issue during this time. My 35: disc/disc/power/dual MC started getting a low pedal sitting for a couple of weeks, I added 2lb residual pressure valves to solve this. Rear brakes locked way before the fronts, I added an adjustable proportioning valve. Works as well as my Dodge now. 47 Ford: Disc/drum, non power dual master cylinder with CPP combination valve. YES, most aftermarket brake companies offer and recommend a combination valve in custom brake systems to take advantage of its many benefits. You can still add an adjustable proportioning valve if needed. The 47 Ford has this combination valve and out performs both the 49 and 35 in braking but not by a large margin. Point is, there is no "one system fits all" and you must have component X or Y or it won't work correctly and kill you and everyone around you. Reason I stated earlier to try it without and TEST it because you might find you don't need all that extra stuff after all.

^^^^^^ THIS! ^^^^^ I know a few Ford flathead guys that don't run thermostats but run restrictor plates, it will overheat without them.

No I am not. Too fragile I see no point with having an electronic ignition if you still keep 3 ohms primary resistance.

Seriously though, I would try it with out any added valves and see what happens. Add as needed

No. Both are Flame Thrower coils. One came off a 69 vette, one came off a 67 camaro. I am using one of them on my 49. Good coils, bad modules.

I've had to do this before tightening the body mounts.

Sounds like you're keeping the stock master cylinder as I did. Is your rear axle stock or??? I removed the internal check valve from the stock master cylinder and did not install any residual pressure valves or proportioning valve to see how well it functioned. That was years ago and never had the need to install any other items. I am running modern 10x2 drum brakes in the rear and a Rusty Hope disc brake kit. Since your stock master cylinder has 2 outlets, consider installing a combination valve if you want added safety. It wont help if your master cylinder fails but it will help if you blow a line between the valve and the front or rear brakes. Most come with residual pressure valve built in too.

Are you sure about that? I have a couple of Pertronix coils around they were all 1.5 ohms. When I toss the modules, I save the coils. Running one on my 49 with a slant 6 conversion and no ballast. 3 ohms is only needed to protect points in a 12v system. Why would you lower your coil output so much defeating any gain from electronic ignition?

My 49 uses the engine number, never been registered out of CA I titled my 47 using the serial number in the driver's door post area in CA. Frame/engine numbers never came up in the conversation.

And to add, my 49 with a stock master, front disc/rear drum didn't need residual pressure valves either. Even after I removed the factory check valve in the master cylinder. My 35 needed them front and rear (disc/disc).

Anywhere between the master cylinder and rear axle works. Have you tried it without the proportioning valve yet? I didn't need one on my 49 but my 35 Ford needed one, every car is different. Manufactures have a hard time "standardizing" what components a vehicle may need because of so many variables, they cannot predict brake size, weight bias etc. so it is a mix and match until you have adequate performance. I have had to reduce master cylinder bore size on every aftermarket master cylinder kits I've installed, power or non power. Most come with a 1-1/8 master and I've gone down to a small as 7/8. No kit is a complete bolt in and go.

With the stock master cylinder, put the proportioning valve in the rear brake circuit. I am assuming you are talking about one of these.

Can you get any negative camber? With positive camber you are riding on the edge of your tires. Pos camber is bad. Adjust the toe to about 1/8 inch toe in. Will track a little better. With 0 or 1/16 toe you may also start wearing the inside of your tires. BUT with positive camber and more toe, you will eat the outside edges of your tires.

BTW, make sure the alignment shop (or you) set all the tire pressures first. If they don't do this step or ask you first, find another shop.

Hello James, Some suggestions.... Rip out the page in your service manual with factory alignment specs and throw it away, we're going to get it as close to accepted / basic RWD specs as we can and see how it drives? - Caster is the easiest way to bring stability and you are at the wrong end. We already know this... Can you get it into + territory at all? - Adjust you camber to -1.0 to -1.25 on both sides, this will help with stability. I don't have the factory specs but I can't believe + camber would be call for. If it is specified in the positive, the engineers made a mistake, I don't care what type of tires you run. - Adjust your toe in to 1/8 inch. We keep focusing on caster only, but these other specs are almost as important. Give this a try. Was your set back or thrust angle in spec? P.S. Optimal specs are 3-7 degrees positive caster (I got 2 out of my 49) 1 to 1.5 degrees negative camber (I'm at 1.?) 1/8 toe in (I'm there) Drives good, wheel returns to center and is fairly stable at freeway speeds. so good enough...

Hello James, What are your actual alignment specs as it sits now? I looked through the old thread about this and I only saw your caster. Camber:? Toe:? SAI:? Toe out on turns:? Thrust angle:?

Almost forgot, I was peening the welds as I went to relieve stress

I've done it with high nickle arc welding rod. 1. wait for spouse to go out for the day 2. turn oven to VERY HOT 600+ deg 3. heat manifold to VERY HOT while preparing your welder 4. weld for 2-3 minutes and put back in oven for 10 minutes 5. leave in oven after welding and lower temps over a few hours Hard, yes - Impossible, no

Random picture a month ago after a day of cruising around with "no particular place to go."

Don't forget modern engines have: Much lighter rotating mass (allows thinner oil) Low tension rings 16-20 lbs pressure in the cooling system which substantially raises the boiling point. With a 50/50 mix of coolant at seal level it boils at 226 degrees with 0 psi and 275 degrees at 20 lbs pressure. Emission requirements that necessitate hotter running engines Finally @Sharps40 My heater / defroster will fry eggs at 170 degrees.

I've tried both 160 and 180 degree thermostats and my oil temps in the pan were within 5 degrees. Ambient temps on both days were also within 5 degrees, same freeway drive... Either way mine runs at 170 - 185 degrees with a 160 thermostat and a 185 degree fan switch installed at the rear of the head.