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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/02/2018 in all areas
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The piston may or may not be slightly above or slightly below the deck surface at top dead center. You need to measure the distance the piston travels up and down in the bore - that is your stroke.2 points
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Got off work a little early today because its been a long week with way too many hours. Came home, fired up the car and went for a drive into Urbana to get a VIN inspection for out of state title transfer - this thing runs pretty damn well. Speedometer is definitely reading too fast (it read 40mph when I was doing 30mph according to GPS) - but the odometer now says 35 miles on it..... so I've driven it at least a couple of miles now I got it up to 70mph or so on a remote road in Mexico and it was perfectly happy.1 point
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From the resources section here: Fluid Capacity Information Engine Oil 5 quarts Fuel Tank 17 Gallons Rear Axle 3-1/4 pints Transmission 2-3/4 pints 2nd and 3rd should be synchronized- Is your clutch adjusted correctly? Use GL1 - GL4 oil only, GL5 may damage your yellow metals (brass blocking rings). If someone has put GL5 oil in, Particularly older GL5, that might be the cause of your shifting issue. Some of the new GL5 oil is listed as yellow metal safe but I don't buy it. You could also have a worn synchronizer assy. I would try the correct oil first GL1-GL4, GL1 is sold at NAPA Adam1 point
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Your happy and the misses is happy then I'd say you have a winner. Looks fine to me too by the way, as if it matters.1 point
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Possible problems I see in the picture above is 1.Painted metal patch (lower left) 2. Galvanized patch (lower right) 3. uncleaned metal (original floors) Seriously, clean everything with a 4" grinder and a 60 grit flapper wheel. Use clean steel patches also cleaned with the flapper wheel. Replacing all the floors will be MUCH harder, I've done both.... Adam1 point
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Search James Douglas here, he did extensive research and testing on FD couplings and posted some very informative results. Like suggested above, I changed my transmission oil but would never touch my FD coupling unless I had to and it works perfectly. Attempting to flush it would risk leaks after and there is almost nobody that can fix it. When you replace the transmission fluid, make sure to use a GL1-GL4 oil, NAPA sells GL1 by the gallon. GL5 could attack the yellow metals in older gearboxes. Adam1 point
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Excellent job. I used a Walmart blanket for material on my 38 Coupe headliner. Still looks great...1 point
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Tyler, it may take a little time but a crank can be found at a reasonable cost. If you can’t afford the VPW price, what do you think it will cost to buy a V8, get it ready, and install it? Don’t give up on your flathead.1 point
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The fluid coupling hold 9-10 Quarts....I'd leave it alone. They can be finicky and sometime leak after changing fluids.. I've been there with customers .The coupling oil does not turn black unless run severely low and over heated... then it's probably always going to leak. Go ahead and change the trans and rear axle fluids with the proper fluids.1 point
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ummmm Don, the art of welding requires INERT gas...…...and if think for a second yours's is inert, you full of the stuff that generates gas.....?? had my laugh for the day1 point
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Why do you want to "flush" those two components? What do you expect to gain?1 point
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Just throwing out there on my off topic chevy, I am changing the interior color from red to Gray, I have chosen 2 colors of gray and I use a semi gloss black for trim, so 3 colors to make up the interior. I see no issue with me on 2 colors.1 point
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I like it, would like to hear more about what material you chose and how you fabbed it up. Something I will also need to do in the future and like to see other options.1 point
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230 flatheads were put into many many cars over the years. Check your local craigslist for people dumping engines. You can usually pickup an entire engine for 100-200. Cheaper than VPW no shipping and you might get some other extras like a carb or manifolds.1 point
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Always enjoyed Bob and Cooper's travels, photos, covered bridges.............RIP Bob.....1 point
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In a solid engine, you can run detergent oil safely. We use Amzoil, which also has sufficient ZDDP to protect the cam lobes and lifters. There’s always a lot of debate about the necessity of using oil with ZDDP – some say it’s not necessary – but a little extra “insurance” is much cheaper than replacing the camshaft and/or the lifters!!! Thx . . .1 point
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It is so good to see younger folks take such an interest in these old cars and trucks. These guys both have fathers who own and maintain old cars and trucks and they both have been taught well by there fathers. They both ask questions but with every question they comment on what they have done and where they have looked prior to asking there questions. In other words they do there homework. I have personally met both of these guys and Joe's dad. I am proud to call them my friends.1 point
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Pecan Grove Store is an old Sinclair gas station between Fredericksburg and Llano, TX (on the way to Enchanted Rock) that has been repurposed as a bar and grille, live music venue. This past Saturday, they held a car show to benefit the local food bank. Although I am not in to car show trophies and such, I took my '53 B4B to give folks something to different look at (everyone loved the fact it was a Dodge and it had a butterfly hood). My truck was in the 50-59 Group that included a really nice '55 Chevy, a slightly modified 50's GMC and a heavily modified 50's Chevy truck (think Gas Monkey style). Surprised me when my truck won the division. I wish I could get the photos to load easier for this Luddite. B4B at Pecan Grove.pdf1 point
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It does indeed Paul. We call a boomerang that doesn’t come back a ‘stick’ ?1 point
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