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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/02/2018 in all areas

  1. My new headliner for my '53 pilothouse that I designed and installed myself. Yes, the side panels are a little different color for contrast. Would like some comments please.
    5 points
  2. Just got my wire wheels back from the powder coater. I think they’ll look pretty darn good on my 36 Airflow.
    4 points
  3. 2 points
  4. Hi Robin put me and Deb's down as I am not on Facebook anymore
    2 points
  5. The piston may or may not be slightly above or slightly below the deck surface at top dead center. You need to measure the distance the piston travels up and down in the bore - that is your stroke.
    2 points
  6. Heaven will be an endless vista of covered bridges and old Plymouths.
    2 points
  7. Got off work a little early today because its been a long week with way too many hours. Came home, fired up the car and went for a drive into Urbana to get a VIN inspection for out of state title transfer - this thing runs pretty damn well. Speedometer is definitely reading too fast (it read 40mph when I was doing 30mph according to GPS) - but the odometer now says 35 miles on it..... so I've driven it at least a couple of miles now I got it up to 70mph or so on a remote road in Mexico and it was perfectly happy.
    1 point
  8. My brother-in-law Pete was visited by a friend at his work shop in the Fargo. Is it about a 1948?
    1 point
  9. From the resources section here: Fluid Capacity Information Engine Oil 5 quarts Fuel Tank 17 Gallons Rear Axle 3-1/4 pints Transmission 2-3/4 pints 2nd and 3rd should be synchronized- Is your clutch adjusted correctly? Use GL1 - GL4 oil only, GL5 may damage your yellow metals (brass blocking rings). If someone has put GL5 oil in, Particularly older GL5, that might be the cause of your shifting issue. Some of the new GL5 oil is listed as yellow metal safe but I don't buy it. You could also have a worn synchronizer assy. I would try the correct oil first GL1-GL4, GL1 is sold at NAPA Adam
    1 point
  10. make it three ways....take a vow of silence....?
    1 point
  11. Your happy and the misses is happy then I'd say you have a winner. Looks fine to me too by the way, as if it matters.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. This turret flare tool is awesome! My bench vice is a little awkwardly near the wall of my shop so I will have to plan my runs carefully or make them then remove flare and reinstall but it made two perfect flares in 5/16” steel tube like butter.
    1 point
  15. Possible problems I see in the picture above is 1.Painted metal patch (lower left) 2. Galvanized patch (lower right) 3. uncleaned metal (original floors) Seriously, clean everything with a 4" grinder and a 60 grit flapper wheel. Use clean steel patches also cleaned with the flapper wheel. Replacing all the floors will be MUCH harder, I've done both.... Adam
    1 point
  16. Search James Douglas here, he did extensive research and testing on FD couplings and posted some very informative results. Like suggested above, I changed my transmission oil but would never touch my FD coupling unless I had to and it works perfectly. Attempting to flush it would risk leaks after and there is almost nobody that can fix it. When you replace the transmission fluid, make sure to use a GL1-GL4 oil, NAPA sells GL1 by the gallon. GL5 could attack the yellow metals in older gearboxes. Adam
    1 point
  17. Gas is the only way in my opinion if you want good looking welds. And unless you're really careful, grinding just weakens the connection.. A good looking weld needs no grinding. With practice, preparation and patience you can get a weld like this,....there is a trick to it 'tho!
    1 point
  18. Excellent job. I used a Walmart blanket for material on my 38 Coupe headliner. Still looks great...
    1 point
  19. Tyler, it may take a little time but a crank can be found at a reasonable cost. If you can’t afford the VPW price, what do you think it will cost to buy a V8, get it ready, and install it? Don’t give up on your flathead.
    1 point
  20. Certainly looks o/k to me, good job.......andyd
    1 point
  21. The fluid coupling hold 9-10 Quarts....I'd leave it alone. They can be finicky and sometime leak after changing fluids.. I've been there with customers .The coupling oil does not turn black unless run severely low and over heated... then it's probably always going to leak. Go ahead and change the trans and rear axle fluids with the proper fluids.
    1 point
  22. ummmm Don, the art of welding requires INERT gas...…...and if think for a second yours's is inert, you full of the stuff that generates gas.....?? had my laugh for the day
    1 point
  23. Why do you want to "flush" those two components? What do you expect to gain?
    1 point
  24. Just throwing out there on my off topic chevy, I am changing the interior color from red to Gray, I have chosen 2 colors of gray and I use a semi gloss black for trim, so 3 colors to make up the interior. I see no issue with me on 2 colors.
    1 point
  25. Great job. I would have used the same color though.
    1 point
  26. I like it, would like to hear more about what material you chose and how you fabbed it up. Something I will also need to do in the future and like to see other options.
    1 point
  27. Excellent job is all I can say!?
    1 point
  28. 230 flatheads were put into many many cars over the years. Check your local craigslist for people dumping engines. You can usually pickup an entire engine for 100-200. Cheaper than VPW no shipping and you might get some other extras like a carb or manifolds.
    1 point
  29. Always enjoyed Bob and Cooper's travels, photos, covered bridges.............RIP Bob.....
    1 point
  30. In a solid engine, you can run detergent oil safely. We use Amzoil, which also has sufficient ZDDP to protect the cam lobes and lifters. There’s always a lot of debate about the necessity of using oil with ZDDP – some say it’s not necessary – but a little extra “insurance” is much cheaper than replacing the camshaft and/or the lifters!!! Thx . . .
    1 point
  31. It is so good to see younger folks take such an interest in these old cars and trucks. These guys both have fathers who own and maintain old cars and trucks and they both have been taught well by there fathers. They both ask questions but with every question they comment on what they have done and where they have looked prior to asking there questions. In other words they do there homework. I have personally met both of these guys and Joe's dad. I am proud to call them my friends.
    1 point
  32. Pecan Grove Store is an old Sinclair gas station between Fredericksburg and Llano, TX (on the way to Enchanted Rock) that has been repurposed as a bar and grille, live music venue. This past Saturday, they held a car show to benefit the local food bank. Although I am not in to car show trophies and such, I took my '53 B4B to give folks something to different look at (everyone loved the fact it was a Dodge and it had a butterfly hood). My truck was in the 50-59 Group that included a really nice '55 Chevy, a slightly modified 50's GMC and a heavily modified 50's Chevy truck (think Gas Monkey style). Surprised me when my truck won the division. I wish I could get the photos to load easier for this Luddite. B4B at Pecan Grove.pdf
    1 point
  33. It does indeed Paul. We call a boomerang that doesn’t come back a ‘stick’ ?
    1 point
  34. nice piece. i'm using the AFR gauge from Innovate Motorsports
    1 point
  35. Bob Drown passed away tonight. RIP Bob.
    0 points
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