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I love you Robert for your spirit and commitment to completely stock Mopars you are kind and gentle to everyone on here including me......I wish you would have been one of my teachers. As to the smoking I have decided to go for quality of life over quantity, my heart condition is genetic and it killed my gramps at 60, my father at 64, and his younger brother at 62......I am now 59 years of age and set in my ways. I smoke, I drink, and there is plenty of dead cow on my plate....lol....I would rather drop face first in my meal in the next five years than wearing a diaper and eating mush in the Veterans home. All jocularity aside a pack lasts me about two weeks instead of one day and beer consumption is one a day, two on Saturday. I’m dead serious about red meat though.

If it runs well I would not get into putting a different carb on it. Rust on the base means possibly icing up at times in cold weather...caused by a stuck heat riser. The carb looks pretty clean and might of already had a back yard rebuild with a too high of float setting or a slightly leaky needle and seat after engine shut down. Leaking a small amount of fuel down onto the throttle plate and shaft....that being probably what you are seeing. Also the carb top cover looks to be sweating a very small amount of fuel too. The carb top needs to be sanded flat on a piece of glass. Easy commonly done fix on the B&B 1 barrel carbs. These carbs are very easy to rebuild....if you know what to do and how to do it. And...they work very well and trouble free when serviced right.

The cold weather snap broke last night. -1C today. Roads are clear and dry. The sun even came out. How could I resist? I could not. Lots of folks happy to the see the old Chrysler out on the roads today. A lovely day for a Winter cruise.

I am 68 and last year the arthritis pain in my hands and wrists was keeping me from working on my car or anything else. Then in June my doctor told me I had diabetes and prescibed pills, weight loss and diet change. Now I have lost 25 pounds, am taking my meds, and have no pain in my hands or other joints. It is like a new lease on life.

Bumper on. One thing I noticed is the bumper/front horn frames must be different from B1/2 to B3/4. I used a B1/2 bumper and B3/4 frame horns (or was it the other way around...can't remember anymore )and the holes don't match up....I had to drill new holes for a second top hole and bottom hole.

Here's the clutch and brake pedal parts disassembled, cleaned up and powdercoated, and then put back together. After the fact I realized the clutch spring is probably supposed to have hooks on both ends, so that part is on order haha. I did a lot of reading on here and saw that a '94 Camry master cylinder might be compatible. I ordered one and sure enough, the bolt pattern basically matches the stock mounting holes exactly. It is a little taller than the frame, hopefully it will work with the cab but I haven't had a chance to check that yet. I installed the brake pedal without the push rod and measured what the uncompressed length to the new MC piston would be. At 118mm the stock push rod is just barely too long. I wanted to avoid grinding down the stock rod in case plans change, so I made a new push rod with a 7/16-20 coupler and bolt from the hardware store. Seems like it will work like it's supposed to.

I am with you brother. I feel we do what we can here in this lifetime .... Am a goofy dude thinks we get re-incarnated. get a new life when done. I am convinced that when we die ... do not go to the light .... it is a trick. Go away from the light and then you get to choose your future life. I will be 58 this year, we are close to same age .... I smoked for 40 years ... since was 10 years old, been about 8 years now I quit. Every male on my family side died around 60, I think now I will be first male to bypass them. I sure love my beer. I became disabled at age 49. Dr's are a bunch of idiots and cant figure out whats really going on. In my case. Instead of taking mass pain pills, I use a beer or 3 to relax and forget about pain. Keep on keeping on brother!

I wouldn’t expect your wipers would draw enough current to need a relay. Headlights use them so the full draw of the current to operate the lights doesn’t need to go through the dash switch. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/133.cfm

Hello All, It’s been ages since I posted to the forum, although I follow it regularly. So I wanted to share a solution I found for my brake drums – specifically 11” diameter drums, 2” width, and a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. As many of you know, these are hard to find and very expensive! This was a journey of countless hours that turned into days and then weeks, with many promising leads that turned into dead ends along with a fair share of mistakes. A couple notable things I tried that didn’t work include: · I came across a manufacturer who was willing to make drums for me, but the minimum order size was well over $2,000. I called Gary up at Roberts to see if he’d be interested in going in with me, but even then the price per drum was prohibitive. · I contacted a company called “J&G Drum Relining” about relining my existing drums, but the price for doing this was almost $400 each. · I bought and subsequently returned several drums – including blank ones that let you drill out your own bolt holes - that looked like they might work. In each case I hit a show-stopper: center (hub) hole too large/small, overall width incorrect, and so on. Finally I came across a post in a car forum that gave me an idea. Instead of looking for an impossibly narrow 2” drum to fit inside of the backing plate, what about a wider, flared drum that fits around the outside? Bingo! I found one that did the trick after a bit of modification. It’s a finned drum by Raybesto, part number 2955R. It has an outside diameter of 13.62" but the all-important inside diameter is 11”. It has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern and 3” center hole. They’re available on Rockauto for $35 each plus shipping. And now for the details

25 lbs, I bet it is easier to breathe too! Congrats on your better health.

I'm dealing with a leaky BB carb that I'm rebuilding for the second time. I haven't sorted it out yet, but I'm pretty sure it's related to float level height. If you do go to rebuild, you may think, like I did, that the float retainer clip provided in the kit is too tall and the wrong one for your carb, because it sticks up above the top edge of the bowl line. It's not. It's supposed to get crushed down by the top piece, and secure the float in place, otherwise the float will rise too much and not shut off. Don't start snipping it down to fit. Like I did.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rLNeA2yp80k" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> One of my friends did something like this when resto-modding his '57 Nomad. Simple enough and fairly inexpensive, particularly given that he recouped much of the cost by selling the hoists after completion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLNeA2yp80k

Always liked Radar Love by Golden Ear Ring.

To quote my Doctor on almost anything I ask about" We can't do anything about that" After a while you quit asking.

I scanned a photo from when I had my body blocked up. You can see the 15 gallon drums, and the 2x6s extending out from under the body. Unless the body metal is badly rusted, you do not need to worry about its weight distorting the lower edge where it sits on the cross support boards. 4x4's would be better, sure, but the 2x6s I used were plenty strong. I worked for hours & hours under the car, and there was never any shifting. (Of course, I DID also leave the chain hoists connected overhead the whole time as a safety measure.) [EDIT: You can also see that I had the frame rolled underneath at the time I took the picture.]

If you saw the inside of my original tank you would have a different opinion about filters. And.......you don't want the cruddy scale from the inside of old rusty fuel lines making it to your pump or carb. We need filtration in these cars.

Frank, While I managed to give up my tobacco habit years ago, I still enjoy a sip of whisky now and then....?

my definition of mad cow disease is the fever I get if deprived of my steak.....

If it was a 6 cylinder Maverick,it was a 1 barrel carb.

Frank is referring to steering shaft. Its a universal joint. With two collars that fit the steering shaft.

The width of your car is five to six feet, that leaves you two feet on each side to play with. Plus your sawbuck leg spread is about eighteen inches......so that only leaves you a small amount of space to roll the chassis out without knocking the body to the floor, I would not recommend eight. On mine I took the sawzall to the steering shaft in the engine compartment.and installed a borgenson joint (small u joint) when I put the body back on.

Might be this one: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1124845&jsn=3

Thanks for the plug. Be sure to watch part two. You can almost see the light bulb going off in between my ears.

I agree 100% with over building something. Same time the builder is 73 years old, he built it to hold the little model A body in the background. Most likely will disassemble it when finished. Is purpose built for 1 use only .... who knows maybe his kid or grandkids may save it from the lumber pile. Perfect time to go through the steering box and access if it needs maintenance. @keithb7 made a nice video will show you what is involved

The 6 volt electric fuel pumps are made for old cars and trucks,and pump a maximum of 6psi. I know for a fact the one I listed from Summit does. I have one on each of my 51 Fords. I do have a undash switch to turn them on and off as I normally only use them if the cars have been parked for a week or more,or it's really cold outside. Even then,I turn them off after the engine fires and starts to run smooth. They are just an aid to starting and to keep from draining the battery. BTW,be VERY careful to NOT put a high pressure fuel pump to your old carbureatered system if you have converted to 12 volts. These old carbs don't stand a chance of dealing with the pressures of a fuel pump designed for fuel-injected systems. Plenty of 12 volt electric fuel pumps are for sale for carbuerated systems,but you need to make sure that is what you are buying,and not one designed for FI. BTW,even then it is a good idea to install a pressure regulator inline for safety sake.

Ever had one sit for a few weeks without starting it? No problem starting them if you start and run them every day,but let one sit for a month in cold weather and then give it a try.

the only way a 30 amp relay would boost the wiper is IF the wiring and connections it is replacing were suspect for voltage drops...

Them electric wipers benefit from cleaning out the gearbox and refilling with JD corn head grease, as well as replacing the leads with new wiring...both repairs greatly reduce the electric motor resistance, which can really pep up the wiper action ?

Also, Do the new electric fuel pumps have a regulator for pressure? Our manual pumps run between 3-6 pounds of pressure. I think electric one push it out more than 6. I do not use one. I have run regular 558's for 47 years with only one break down on the road. I drove my date home to Hasbrook Heights NJ one freezing rainy night in January 1975 (Her Dad told me she had to be home by midnight) Being from a Polish Catholic Family and all I had her Mary Ellen home at 11:57PM. Her dad was a Machinist and I didn't want to piss him off. I turned around to go back to Bloomfield NJ and about a block short of Rt 46 my Chrysler died. It started and stalled as I touched the gas pedal, I knew it was the Fuel Pump. Of course I had an extra in the trunk. I didn't want to wreck my Pea Coat so I took it off and laid under the 251 and changed out that fuel pump in record time (15-20 minutes) leaving off the heat shield as I worked. Shuddering and shaken wet I jumped back into my Chrysler Royal and started her up. But was I ever glad the Heater worked good. I made it home to my apartment building OK in Bloomfield 40 minutes later. It was around 30 degrees out. All I had on was a cotton shirt. Ahh to be young and strong again. Anyway I dated Mary Ellen until the spring of that year, but we went our separate ways after that. True story, ain't Life Grand?

One of these days I'm going to be smart enough to buy cars that look that good! Honest! Maybe.

Regarding float level. Today's fuels are less dense than the fuels of 70 years ago. You will need to set the float slightly lower than spec to gain enough float pressure to close the needle valve.

There had to be ferrys running back and forth between there and the mainland,so why would you think you car wasn't there? BTW,very pretty car!

Some folks have swapped out the rear end for a more modern axle with a different ratio. Probably your best option is to adjust your expectations.....confine your travels to two-lane roads and enjoy the journey. Life can be pretty cool at 55-60 mph in an old car. ?

Paint marks like that remind me of quality control acceptance marks for shipping. Piston orientation and std/oversize# are typically stamped into the piston top to survive the combustion during service life, for future service reference, especially for a visual check when the head is removed.

I decided to keep busy on Election Night by listening to some tunes and tracing the original decal on the Deluxe Filter...easier said than done. The decal tracing was like trying to write on 80 grit sandpaper, but 4 hours later, I have a good start for a reproduction. I would prefer to get this into a digital format now that I have a 2D representation to work with, but that's not going to happen for awhile with my upcoming work requirements...maybe next month

Here's how I did the linkage on my 274" DeVal (Chrysler Industrial 265" IND-32 clone). It has three Carter-Webers on an A-O-K intake.