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I have conflicted feelings about the necessity of a dual-circuit cylinder. I had a brake failure in my 1964 Beetle as a young heathen when a line turned loose and we rolled past a stop sign out into an intersection, the only thing that saved me was the lady coming from my right being alert and nearly getting stopped before caving in the passenger door. That experience has remained stuck in the recesses of my brain.... On the other hand, my dad bought a new '56 Savoy which I learned to drive nearly ten years later and was still running when we sold it after his passing in the late '70's. The odometer showed 144K+ miles even though it had quit spinning a few years previously. That Plymouth never gave us a moment's trouble with the brakes....we never even considered that it had a single-circuit cylinder. So...after being determined to install a dual-circuit cylinder in the '48 P15 when I bought it a year ago, (and an abandoned attempt to convert to a dual-circuit cylinder) I'm attaining a level of peace with the single-chamber cylinder. I've replaced the entire brake system so have confidence in the integrity of the lines and cylinders. I also have a parking brake that works pretty well after careful adjustment. I also try to drive with a similar mindset I used on motorcycles years ago.....be conservative and try to leave an 'out'. Driving any machine is a risk........even though the dual-chamber vision hasn't disappeared completely....I'm coming around to depending on components what worked quite well so many decades ago.

I picked up the 265 that's in my car now for about 200 bucks 6 or 7 years ago. It was still in it's wooden crate from the factory. He had a 2nd one that I probably should have bought but they are heavy and space at my house is tight. The guy's place was great. An average house on an acre of land on the edge of an affluent neighborhood in northern New Jersey.{Bergen County} It looked like a military junkyard with sheds filled with stuff.

"Beater with a heater. Transmission is a little messed up not sure what’s wrong with it. You have to put it in second gear to drive at first and when you go over 25 miles you put it to drive also you can’t get past 35 miles. Left Tail light is broken put some repair tape on it. Car smokes every now and then. I think it needs a new battery. One of the windshield wipers screw needs to be tight or else one of the windshield wipers won’t work. Also the horn doesn’t work. Needs new tags. Other than that drives pretty well." Other than that it drives well. lol What the heck is left?

Don't take it apart as Dave says if it's quiet... Maybe do the pinion seal. Carefully prick align punch the pinion nut, end of pinion shaft and yoke to re-assemble exactly as originally built. The nut can be tightened a whisker beyond your prick punch just.so you can still get the cutter pin in. I also use blue loctite on the nut threads.?

the ratio will be written on the crown gear.

good looking gears. probably 4,1 to 1. Talk to me if you decide to change the ratio. These gear sets gave very little trouble. if it ran quietly, put a new seal on it and reinstall. Use a Hypoid high pressure oil 80 os 90 SAE

Flew right off the thread ?

glad you asked answers are 1 no 2 no reason to 3 yes and 4 no. to elaborate, oil pressure is regulated by the pressure regulator in the block and it also controls the amount of oil that travels through the.filter . At idle when pressure is say 20 lbs , no oil passes through the filter It is a BYPASS filter flex lines can be a trouble point and not necessary because the filter bolts to the engine. It is imperative that the inlet is at the side or top of the canister and the drain is at the bottom and connected to the vertical facing block port which leads back via the relief valve to the pan otherwise the contents of the cartridge may be forced out and will reappear in the sump where it will be recirculated and collect in the annuli of the main bearings causing crankshaft failure Yes, I have seen this happen oil pressure in the main distribution gallery pushes a piston against a spring . this simultaneously opens a return to the pan and a circuit through the filter ( if so equipped ) only about 15% of the oil travels through the filter circuit at any given time Chrysler engines and all modern engines have Full Flow filters Don't confuse the two. confused now ?

It also depends of condition of the wheels Themselves. Pitting is a sure bet it will leak. Price of tubes Vs dealing with a slow constant leak may be money well spent.

Did a little twisting and tweaking and the actuating arms now fit. While I was in there I also installed the defroster ducts. On to the next problem...... Brad

I just attended the Antique Automotive club of America annual convention and lecture series in Philadelphia this past weekend. Attend a lecture on car batteries. One of the points that this lecture pointed out is this: When jumping a battery and the hood has been opened on both vehicles you should wave your hand or used an object to make some air movement over the top of each battery to remove any sulphuric acid vapors above each battery prior to doing anything. Then connect the proper cable to the dead battery. Then go an connect the appropriate cable to the car that has the good battery and then start the jumping process. everyone should remind their wife's and children and also you about this safety factor. A lot of good information was provided about car batteries. The lecturer even stated that the biggest difference that he has found between a 3yr and a 5 year battery is the amount of space at the bottom of the plates to the case bottom. The 5 year battery has a great amount of space so the plate material can then settle to the bottom and has more distance or thickness than a 3 year guaranteed battery. Basically thy are the same but the amount of space at the bottom is the difference. Also there are only 4 major auto battery suppliers but he did not tell us those companies. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

But at least she grasps the concept of jumper cables. That's more advanced then a lot of my daughters male friends.

I found this pic recently on the internet. A 1938 Plymouth from back when it was near new, I hope I didn't post this already. My thread is getting long!

For those interested in this sort of thing I've made a sketch of my original axle compared to the 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana 44 axle showing the relationship of the perches from old to new. Brad

I just did a wiki search on how to officially determine the exact size of a stranded and solid wire when it is covered in a plastic outer covering. Use the link below to get a better understanding of wire; very interesting topic. https://www.wikihow.com/Gauge-Wire Rich Hartung desoto1939

bottoms ones look like they might be window stops. to keep the glass from falling out the bottom of the tracks when the window is down

Stock? No, but I'm going for it. Too cool when you hear these on old cars. I love the sound...

Thanks to everyone who responded with window installation tips! I was able to install the center window. I used some string and a plastic pry tool from HF. I had a helper hold the window from the inside. If I ever do this again, I'll try using a slightly thicker string (maybe 1/8 inch thick) to reduce the chance of cutting the rubber or breaking the string. The string I used was only .090 because that's what I had laying around.

Anxious for driving season....

I can't believe I didn't share this one before! Bought back in May 1964 Belvedere 318 with a push button automatic. These are right when I got it. Only changes are I swapped out the hubcaps for plymouth division caps and I got rid of that gas cap!

I’m not so sure it’s greed of corporate America or the union scale that drives the cost of everything and send it overseas. My opinion union had its place years ago But GREED took over and now the end user pays for it. I just ordered a new dodge dually, $65,000. Ridiculously overpriced,

and if you are a gorilla, I have had less trouble with any Craftsman return than that of any jobber sold tool system bar none.....at least the Craftsman store had it in stock and swapped on the spot compared to maybe a week or more for the other guys....oh, they come through, but on their schedule unfortunately. Like Young Ed, I get my tools on the 'proven side' of life, mainly at the pawn shops for pennies on the dollar and buying Craftsman, I still get that exchange warranty. There are no jobbers 40 miles out in the country for warranty exchange and 95% of the time, no store front for them either. Got to weight all in the buying/use process

One thing that really makes me mad is that just because it says it's made in the USA doesn't mean it is. I think like if you buy like for instance a socket set. As long as 30% of what you bought was made in the USA they can say it was. But this counts the box, packaging, and odd crap. So the actual tools or most of them wouldn't have to be. Or you have the secnerio where it's put together here with parts from other countries. Its all very frustrating to me.

Years ago, I picked up the smallest Craftsman siphon unit that was on sale to clean up some wheels and smaller parts. I used it inside a pole barn with a dirt floor, so I employed an old pickup bed liner as a trough of sorts to work in. Even using care as to keep the sand aimed on the parts, I ended up getting sand on everything inside that barn (dust too) as the sand would bounce off the work parts and randomly track in every direction. Even wearing a hood, welding gloves, long sleeves & ear plugs, I still got dust in my eyes & nose, judging by the sinus headaches & whutnot that would follow the next day after use. And I was ignorant of the moisture filter that was needed, so my nozzle clogged often from condensation from the compressor. After going through several bags of sand doing sample parts & one wheel, I calculated my operating costs and compared that to the cost of a media blasting company that is in town, and I opted to have them blast my other wheels. Those wheels were scaly rusty, so those guys were gonna do a much better job than my li'l setup could do. But for other parts, the siphon unit did well, and with practice and patience, I cleaned up some sheet metal without damage. I also taught myself how to setup everything so once the blaster was running, I was cleaning one part after another with minimal stops and eventually learned how to estimate how much sand was needed to clean certain size parts. As I gear up to do some more sand blasting, I plan on making a temporary shed of sorts inside that pole barn so as not to lose so much sand, making a 2x4 frame with poly plastic sheeting to knock the sand back down to the bed liner for re-use. I definitely would not trust a media blasting company to do any sheet metal as them folks just knock rust off and don't care about warping.

I want to thank B1B Keven for putting together this project and helping support the site!

They're done. I also made and had printed some clock faces using the same font. Shoot me a PM if interested.