Bingster Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 I have no affiliation with these folks, but ran across the ad and wondered if there is a down side to this type of electrical spice. https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg Quote
chris 48 P15 Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 for me the best way is to correctly solder 2 Quote
TodFitch Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 49 minutes ago, Bingster said: I have no affiliation with these folks, but ran across the ad and wondered if there is a down side to this type of electrical spice. https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg Way back in the 1970s a defense contractor I worked for used "solder sleeves" for splicing wires in some places. The link to those "waterproof solder wire connectors" look very much like the same thing and they will probably work well. Not doing high volume work and having a large supply of electrical solder and a soldering iron, I usually just make a hand soldered connection. Heat shrink to cover if I have the right diameter on hand otherwise electrical tape works pretty well too. 14 minutes ago, chris 48 P15 said: for me the best way is to correctly solder Those do actually provide a soldered joint. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 1 hour ago, Bingster said: I have no affiliation with these folks, but ran across the ad and wondered if there is a down side to this type of electrical spice. https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg I've seen these used and have never heard anything adverse about them, quicker and much less technique required than for a conventional solder/shrink tubing connection. Quote
chris 48 P15 Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 looks like heat gun is enough to solder? Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 9 minutes ago, chris 48 P15 said: looks like heat gun is enough to solder? Yes, they use a very low temp solder. I would source these from an electronic supply such as Digikey or Mouser to insure getting a mainstream brand instead of an offshore knockoff. (Apologies for the long link) TE Connectivity seems to be a vendor that services the aerospace and marine industry. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-aerospace,-defense-and-marine/CWT-3/2046047?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Category_Cables and Wires&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20053924771_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-2046047_sig-Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69WhC-UkpNVofp5UC2Qf-XvHt_hg0jeo5prmwte3a4fwM5z_9RU13QaAhKuEALw_wcB Quote
Ivan_B Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 These are supposed to be "heat-shrink soldering", why is there a crimper on the main banner? ? I was under impression that these shrink (including the metal ring in the middle) but do not actually solder. If they actually solder, I would sure like to see the outer insulation jacket removed, and the soldered connection exposed for inspection, after the fact ? Quote
Sniper Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 All I have to do is read the so-called customer commentary to know that this is not something I would even look at much less use Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 (edited) I am not sure of that brand name but have used these by the literal thousands for the US Navy....Raychem was the brand used there......you must have the correct heat gun and proper tips to be effective...the ones we used were easy and top notch joints. Edited January 24 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Bingster Posted January 24 Author Report Posted January 24 That's great to know. Seems it would make rewiring less daunting. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 24 Report Posted January 24 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said: These are supposed to be "heat-shrink soldering", why is there a crimper on the main banner? ? I was under impression that these shrink (including the metal ring in the middle) but do not actually solder. If they actually solder, I would sure like to see the outer insulation jacket removed, and the soldered connection exposed for inspection, after the fact ? You can rest assured the major brand connectors work and work well when properly applied. They have been around for a long time and are common in aviation and defense applications. I don't know why there is a crimper in that ad. The RayChem connectors DO NOT get crimped, but they are definitely a soldered connection. The sleeves are transparent for easy inspection. Here is the datasheet for the RayChem SolderSleeve wire splices: https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=2347480-1_raychem-devices&DocType=Data+Sheet&DocLang=English&DocFormat=pdf&PartCntxt=403289-000 Edited January 24 by Sam Buchanan Quote
Ivan_B Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 2 hours ago, Bingster said: Seems it would make rewiring less daunting. Sure. And, of course, using a car that does not need re-wiring is even more convenient 2 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: The RayChem connectors DO NOT get crimped, but they are definitely a soldered connection. Okay, I actually did a brief research on these, they do solder. Appear to be not as strong when compared to the normal soldering, though: Of course, you would not expect that kind of force to be applied to your wires in the car... However, this could be the conservative talk\type, but are these really more convenient in comparison to the regular soldered joints? Are they only available for straight crimps? What about t-splices, and all kinds of other weird configurations? What about different terminal connections? What about not frying the rest of the harness while working with the heat gun in a tight space? Also, if you are re-doing or repairing the OEM harness, this would not really look appropriate with the transparent insulation etc. This would be my greater concern Exciting new technology? Sure, but is it really useful at home? I don't know. How difficult is it to use the soldering gun? ? Quote
Sniper Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 I was trained to solder when I was in the Navy and the pull test was definitely one of the things they did during training of course my solder jobs may or may not had to survive combat so there was a little more on the line there LOL I still solder by hand and I probably will to the day they put me in the ground Quote
40plyguy Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 I’ve used these before with good results using a butane hot air”pencil”. The center ring is the solder, the outer rings are a sealant that activates with the shrink tubing to keep out moisture and salt water. The thing I like is that the wiring and connector remain flexible. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 (edited) There is a very simple solution for those who have concerns or questions about solder sleeves. Don't use them. However....if your wiring architecture puts tensile strain on your soldered connections then the wiring design is faulty....wires too short or poorly oriented. A fundamental requirement of proper wiring design is to incorporate strain relief. Fix the underlying deficiency then any type of splice will be more than adequate in our cars. I use crimped connectors with a ratcheting crimper, never had issues even with crimps that are 25 years old in my aircraft. I instructed mil-spec soldering during my first real job a loooong time ago where we built harnesses and boards for Army things that blew stuff up. I can still solder fairly well and don't hesitate to use it if applicable but there are far faster methods for splicing wire that are perfectly suitable for most applications. Edited January 25 by Sam Buchanan Quote
JBNeal Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 What Do You Think of These? when I read this thread title, it brought to mind something that a 1st date said to me years ago...boy howdy, that was a fun evening 2 Quote
Bingster Posted January 25 Author Report Posted January 25 Now, that really is a heartwarming story. A young girl on her first date is so proud of her new Mary Janes that she proudly shows them to you, and the two of you dance the night away. Touchin'! Just Touchin'! 1 Quote
RobertKB Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 15 hours ago, Sniper said: I still solder by hand and I probably will to the day they put me in the ground Ditto. Solder and shrink wrap. Then I know it will outlast me and probably the car! Quote
Ivan_B Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 1 hour ago, Bingster said: Now, that really is a heartwarming story. She was referring to her freshly lacquered nails... ? This is clearly an Off-topic thread, by the way. Quote
Bingster Posted January 25 Author Report Posted January 25 Oh, I don't know. We often talk about lacquer on here. Quote
JBNeal Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 yeah I lacquered her up somethin' fierce...good times ? as for the OP, I've seen these and they appear to do OK in light duty applications, such as under dash, but trailer wiring and underhood, I opt to twist-solder-shrink tube...haven't had one of those solder joints fail yet Quote
Bingster Posted January 25 Author Report Posted January 25 And we'll leave it at that. The moderator undoubtedly would like us to move on. 1 Quote
TodFitch Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 18 minutes ago, Bingster said: And we'll leave it at that. The moderator undoubtedly would like us to move on. Very true. Quote
Los_Control Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 I'm not going to bother to look up or research on my own .... I'm a old fart stuck in my ways and going with non insulated terminals, solder, shrink tube. I would imagine if you can solder them with lower heat then a solder iron .... most likely the solder is softer and therefore would be weaker? Same time I wont say anything bad about them because I've never used them .... It is just natural with time and new process things improve. I felt the same way about led lighting but am slowly coming around to it's advantages. I do remember when I went to night school for a few months to be a electrician. .... I dropped out because there was too much math for me The instructor asked why we solder wires? ... Most suggested it was to make the connection stronger. He replied, He could tie the wire in a knot and make it stronger then the solder.The only reason to solder wire was to maintain the most conductivity. So with that thought that the instructor told me .... would it matter if the new solder was softer .... could the new softer solder actually provide a easier pathway to create better conductivity? 14 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: if your wiring architecture puts tensile strain on your soldered connections then the wiring design is faulty....wires too short or poorly oriented. A fundamental requirement of proper wiring design is to incorporate strain relief. It never was about strength, it is about the electricity passing from one wire to the next with the least amount of resistance So thats my thoughts on it .... I'm not going to use it because I know nothing about it ..... Fact is it could be the next the next greatest thing for consistency in automotive wiring since the fuse was invented. ...... I simply know nothing about it at this time. Quote
Ivan_B Posted January 25 Report Posted January 25 19 minutes ago, Los_Control said: The only reason to solder wire was to maintain the most conductivity. This is correct. This reminds me of some 70-years old wires in a residential building, copper, tied together. There was a good ~2 inches of contact between them. 19 minutes ago, Los_Control said: I would imagine if you can solder them with lower heat then a solder iron .... most likely the solder is softer and therefore would be weaker? This is exactly what the tube testing video demonstrated. Although, I suppose for a more applicable testing, they should've passed some high current through the wires and measured the resistance/voltage drop/heat, etc. Just curious, are there any disadvantages of LED lights, besides the cost? ? Quote
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