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chris 48 P15

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Everything posted by chris 48 P15

  1. a b sells a kit may suit your needs
  2. pick a size any size yes nice set not bad price either
  3. i used 1/2 drive socket to drive the seals in with some success i have large enough sockets to cover seal
  4. very nice metal work wood work mechanical work
  5. there is an adjustment on the shift lever that should be looked at since the whole thing was apart when you did the overcenter spring and clutch fork adjustment this may put the shift lever out of adjustment this happened to me i lost reverse until adjustment
  6. you need to remove tranny, clutch, oil pan, flywheel, rear main cap {has bottom half of seal} may also have to loosen other main caps to drop crank a little to access the top half of the seal. also there are new types of seals make sure it fits your car. in the end it may leak but you will have cleaned gunk out of oil pan
  7. pull the flywheel remove the broken bolt the book says to cross torque the bolts i think you need all six bolts won't hold clutchplate evenly not that hard once flywheel is out of car use stud extractor set drill hole down the center of broken bolt use extractor to remove spray with pb blast or something because there is no torque on it it may come out ez the spray is for rust better than putting it together only to have to do it again
  8. if pistons are good and block is good maybe do piston rings and re hone the cylinder walls
  9. here is some info i found i don't know how they loaded make sure to read them in order
  10. more power more brakes there are disc brake conversions for the front i feel its a better set up even though not to strict originality you have to stop
  11. the question about the tool not fitting i believe means it is out of adjustment turning the turn buckle will move the pins or the base of the tool to sit on frame when everything lines up it is adjusted properly readjust the clutch free play after
  12. thanks for info

    definitely helped

  13. tool c-705 the holes should fit into linkage and adjusting the turnbuckle will bring the back end up or down when adjusted properly all three points should line up into tool i made this tool from schematics on this website i will send a picture of clutch fork pull back spring on my car tomorrow for comparison the car is 1948 Plymouth club coupe did it work properly before taken apart maybe needs certain amount of pressure or spring tension to work the parts book doesn't list specific size for spring
  14. the same thing happened to me the clutch pressure plate spring are heavy not able to push clutch fork by hand that looks ok to me not saying throw out bearing is correct or not the leverage created with pedal is why we can compress the pressure plate springs at the clutch fork for my p-15 it says to have a 1/8-to-5/32-inch free play at clutch fork should give the one-inch free play at pedal the clutch return spring looks right to me should have tension when installed once it is all together you need to make all adjustments then and the pedal will bounce back into place you may need to adjust all linkages btw i learned some new things with the water pump thread who knew water pump grease
  15. Water pump needs rebuild or replace try looking at other sources for new water pump they may have what you need cheaper
  16. 2 different parts a throw out bearing is not a pivot shaft bearing no problem oh
  17. think of the trophies you can get
  18. update took the clutch apart again found errors on my part i didn't tighten pressure plate properly changed the engine mounts will also change the clutch torque shaft bearings waiting for helper to button up for test drive
  19. ordered the clutch shaft pivot bearing will replace and see if solves problem
  20. the universal joints are the ball and trunnion type seemed to turn freely no binding or play i have read the stories with these type of u joints so i dont ant to take it apart yet one problem at a time i think it may be the linkages or a mistake on the assembly
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