1952 Plymouth Cranbrook Exhaust Doughnut.

[Leo White]

Does anyone know where I can find an Exhaust Doughnut gasket for my 52 Plymouth Cranbrook?

[greg g]

Where does it go? If between the ex manifold and pipe I believe it just a flange gasket.

[Leo White]

Just now, greg g said:

Where does it go? If between the ex manifold and pipe I believe it just a flange gasket.

Yes it is the flange gasket, would anyone do or will I need a specific one?

[Plymouthy Adams]

make a template of your flange....go to the big box store and look at gaskets or for faster results often the local muffler shop will be a quick in and out for the gasket....

[Leo White]

This is what I am looking for 

[Plymouthy Adams]

good you posted the pic...that is a fashioned exhaust

[Leo White]

1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

good you posted the pic...that is a fashioned exhaust

What is a Fashioned Exhaust

[Plymouthy Adams]

one that is not stock...

[Leo White]

Just now, Plymouthy Adams said:

one that is not stock...

Got it thank you

[Leo White]

Ok so I have my plymouth in the shop right now getting the oil pan gaskets replaced as well as some other stuff done to it, I stopped by the shop and the guy was able to fabricate a new flange gasket

[Veemoney]

Leo,

It may be the picture or my eyes playing tricks on me but worth checking. 

In the picture it appears the stud used to pull the flanges together is bent or distorted. This may be part of the problem getting it to draw up tight. If so make sure the shop has replaced it along with the gasket.

[Leo White]

Just now, Veemoney said:

Leo,

It may be the picture or my eyes playing tricks on me but worth checking. 

In the picture it appears the stud used to pull the flanges together is bent or distorted. This may be part of the problem getting it to draw up tight. If so make sure the shop has replaced it along with the gasket.

Oh I see what you are talking about, good eyes.

[DonaldSmith]

I'm about ready to try a donut for my manifold-to-pipe connection.  Flat gaskets don't seem to work.  I can hear and feel the gas escaping.  Maybe the pipe is misaligned.  (The photo shows a bit of JB magic where a part of the cast-iron flange is long gone.  There still seems enough to engage the bolt.)  Wish me luck.   

 

 

.  

[Leo White]

1 minute ago, DonaldSmith said:

I'm about ready to try a donut for my manifold-to-pipe connection.  Flat gaskets don't seem to work.  I can hear and feel the gas escaping.  Maybe the pipe is misaligned.  (The photo shows a bit of JB magic where a part of the cast-iron flange is long gone.  There still seems enough to engage the bolt.)  Wish me luck.   

 

 

.  

Good luck, I hope the one the shop fabricated works for mine

[greg g]

Looks like Don could use a doughnut.  Would probable seal better with less torque on the wounded ear.

[Sniper]

brass nuts on exhaust bolts/studs will make your life so much easier down the road.

[plymouthcranbrook]

About four years ago I bought one over the counter at of all places, Autozone.  Exact fit

[Jerry Roberts]

3 hours ago, DonaldSmith said:

I'm about ready to try a donut for my manifold-to-pipe connection.  Flat gaskets don't seem to work.  I can hear and feel the gas escaping.  Maybe the pipe is misaligned.  (The photo shows a bit of JB magic where a part of the cast-iron flange is long gone.  There still seems enough to engage the bolt.)  Wish me luck.   

 

 

.  

 Donald , It looks like the right hand ear on your manifold is cracked .   

[DonaldSmith]

The one ear has been reconstructed with JB weld. I think I drilled into the cast iron and looped a steel rod into the cast iron and where the B weld would be.  We'll see how well it holds up.  If not, there is a two-piece repair flange that I could install above the existing flange.  

 

I've got a pinion oil seal to install, and then I'll tackle the exhaust leak.  Fun under the car, especially these days when it's so hot and muggy.  Stay tuned.        

[busycoupe]

That broken flange could probably be welded.  About 6 yesrs ago I had my exhaust manifold welded where an "ear" broke off where it bolted to the hesd.  It has been OK ever since.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Jeez....

No has the right answer to fix correctly the header pipe leakage.

Simple fix if the header pipe is made properly like the factory made pipe.

[Loren]

I feel your pain.

Some previous owner replaced the exhaust on my Coupe with a "muffler shop bend up" which leaks in the same place.

When I took the sheet metal cover off in the wheel well to see what was wrong, the flange they used was a loose one with a flared end on the pipe. Just like Leo's except the flair was 90 degree for use with a flat gasket.

When you make that sharp a corner with aluminized pipe it will crack in the radius eventually.

The flange they used was thin and had these huge slots for the bolts.

When you tightened the bolts it deformed and it didn't center the pipe to the manifold.

Properly done a thicker flange would be welded to the pipe that actually fit the manifold.

I've tried to separate the head pipe from the muffler and that's not happening.

To get the pipe out where I could weld on a new flange would require removing the entire exhaust or cutting the pipe.

My NAPA has a nice selection of pipe adaptors. To do it right you need one that is expanded over the pipe on one end and shrunk inside on the other.

Tomorrow is another day and I will see what is going to happen.

[kencombs]

5 hours ago, Loren said:

I've tried to separate the head pipe from the muffler and that's not happening.

To get the pipe out where I could weld on a new flange would require removing the entire exhaust or cutting the pipe.

 

Enough heat would separate the pipe and muffler fairly easily.  Unless it's welded.  Propane or MAPP alone won't do it, but a fuel/ox torch would.  Fuel/ox because I have both a propane and acetylene to choose.  Nice red color all around, a little wiggle and pull or hammer hit would do it. Works even on those that have had the clamps over-tightened to the point there are grooves in the pipe. 

You know the little wrinkles on the inside of an exhaust bend when done on a bending machine, not the mandrel type?  Long ago an old mechanic/welder showed me how 'adjust' a pipe that didn't quite fit.   Using that same torch one can replicate those wrinkles.  Heat the inside of the bend area, about 270degs around the pipe.  It will swell just a little when it turns cherry red.   Now pull it gently in the direction it needs to move.  A little wrinkle will form and your pipe shape is changed.    Heating on the outside always causes the pipe to collapse in cross-section.

[Loren]

A couple of things happened which gave me a clue as to what I should do.

First a Mopar parts catalog (1200 pages) showed up (at a hefty price to be sure) on my door step.

From this book I spied the correct configuration of the manifold to pipe flange.

The flange is welded on not loose with a protrusion into the manifold of the pipe.

Second a check of the sellers on eBay revealed that one seller had the correct configuration and what looks like the right muffler.

 

I think this configuration is the best because it takes the strain off the flange/pipe and moves it to the manifold to pipe intersection. Apparently the factory thought so too because that is the factory design.

The company that makes these things is basically a muffler shop (aren't they all) and the pipes have muffler shop bends. Meaning when they put a bend in the pipe it kinks it. I seriously doubt you will find mandril bent tubing for an old Plymouth and it would be impossibly expensive.

While I saw the photos of their product on eBay, their website has only P15 and Pickup truck photos.

www.dixieexhaustworks.com

 

What I know of their work I got from their photos. My criteria is based on what I know doesn't work (that is the failure of my car's manifold/flange crack and leak) and what I know the factory used. Your mileage may vary.

 

I am not going to replace my exhaust system at this time. Mainly because I want to do a split manifold later.

I am going to do a repair of the existing head pipe using what I've learned.

[DonaldSmith]

Found the source of the exhaust leak where the manifold and the pipe are connected, on my 47 DeSoto. 

First, the loose flange on the pipe is distorted, and not applying even pressure to the pipe (boss?) and gasket.  (Both sides of the gasket are stained by leaking exhaust.) 

 

 

Then, the (boss?) on the pipe is distorted.

 

(Ignore the blob of JB Weld on the manifold flange.  It surrounds the remaining cast iron.  It has worked so far.) 

 

 

What to do:

A:  Remove the exhaust pipe and re-form the (boss?) and flatten the flange.  (Or alternately, get a two-piece repair flange.) 

or:

B: Slather the mating surfaces with exhaust system sealer, and wrench it together. 

or:

Both A and B.

 

By the way, the donut won't work.  It fits over the exhaust pipe but does not fit into the manifold.