My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

[Young Ed]

This is my original dash wiring. Shows how some of it was clipped in.

 

 

[Eneto-55]

48 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

This is my original dash wiring. Shows how some of it was clipped in.

I see you used masking tape to label the wires.  I did that too, but just a warning - masking tape gets brittle after 35+ years, falls off when you touch it....   (No, I never planned to need to read it that much later, but that's what happened.)

[Young Ed]

22 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

I see you used masking tape to label the wires.  I did that too, but just a warning - masking tape gets brittle after 35+ years, falls off when you touch it....   (No, I never planned to need to read it that much later, but that's what happened.)

That was just for the rewire. Car has been back on the road since 2008. Only had a few rewiring issues back then as anyone who went to the POC meet in detroit could testify to. 

[NickPickToo]

Thank you all.  The photos were helpful.  We're using a YNZ harness so everything is well marked.  As I started to connect the wires, it all kind of made sense.

Edited January 4, 2021 by NickPickToo

[Young Ed]

50 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

Thank you all.  The photos were helpful.  We're using a YNZ harness so everything is well marked.  As I started to connect the wires, it all kind of made sense.

Since I mentioned the issues above I should confess what they were so you avoid them. The wires on one side of my amp gauge came loose and eventually shorted enough to break the stud when I tried to tighten. The other issue was the highbeam switch wiring clip got slightly bent. The coating wore through and then I'd pop a fuse everytime I put the clutch in with the lights on. Of course both of these issues waited to present themselves until I was on a trip about 1000miles from home.

[NickPickToo]

Does anyone have a picture of one of these mounted in place?  

[Sam Buchanan]

Nick, here is how I installed the signal switch in my '48:

 

 

I put the wiring bundle in some heat shrink tubing to tidy things up a bit.

 

The wiring is connected to the car via this terminal strip:

 

 

The terminal strip is much neater than a tangle of butt connectors, makes it easy to trouble shoot, and provides a place to add circuits.

[Sniper]

When I sorted out my turn signal switch wiring and hooked it up, I used a molex connector there.  In fact I used molex connectors all over hte place, but I wasn't using a factory stye wiring harness.  Now in the trunk I have a terminal strip for hooking up stuff like the trunk light I am adding, the amp for the stereo, etc.  Many ways to skin a cat, but neatness counts, lol.

[NickPickToo]

TnZ wired it into the harness before shipping so I didn't have any circuit boards to figure out.  I could have ran the wire down to the base of the column, but it tucks more cleanly up into the dash.  I'll tie it to the main harness that runs there already. 

[Merle Coggins]

It looks like you have the signal switch mounted pretty low. You may find it more convenient up closer to the steering wheel.  You may want to sit in the seat and see how it feels to use the signals in relation to your hands on the wheel. 

 

Here’s a pic of my truck. This works well for me, up under the wheel similar to a modern vehicle. Since it’s not self canceling you will need to be able to reach it easily after a turn so that you can cancel it.  

 

[Eneto-55]

re: self cancelling turn signals, my first car was a 62 Chrysler, and as most here will know, the turn signal was on the dash, not on the column at all.  It had a "cancel sensor" mounted down low on the column (well under the dash) that activated an electro-magnet sort of deal to disengage the signal switch.  If I were running 12V, I would try to find a working setup out of one of those cars.  (It was used for at least three years or more.)  (I'm thinking that it would be rather complicated to convert one for 6V.)

[NickPickToo]

1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

It looks like you have the signal switch mounted pretty low. You may find it more convenient up closer to the steering wheel.  You may want to sit in the seat and see how it feels to use the signals in relation to your hands on the wheel. 

 

Here’s a pic of my truck. This works well for me, up under the wheel similar to a modern vehicle. Since it’s not self canceling you will need to be able to reach it easily after a turn so that you can cancel it.  

 

Thank you for the advice.  The issue here is the three-on-the-tree shifter keeps me from mounting up much higher, but I'll take another look at it.

[Sam Buchanan]

Nick, it can go quite a bit higher than that and still cohabitate with the shifter. Look at my installation again:

 

[Young Ed]

Agreed I have the same unit in my p15 and its pretty much right up to the steering wheel. It's close enough that I can hang my hand down just right while turning to flick the switch off 

[NickPickToo]

Just now, Young Ed said:

Agreed I have the same unit in my p15 and its pretty much right up to the steering wheel. It's close enough that I can hang my hand down just right while turning to flick the switch off 

 

Got it.  I moved it just above the shifter but with enough room to hang my fingers out to reach the switch easily.

 

 

[NickPickToo]

Little farther along.  Need to attach the seatbelt strap to the B pillar and then hide all those screws.

 

[NickPickToo]

On 1/7/2021 at 6:30 PM, Eneto-55 said:

re: self cancelling turn signals, my first car was a 62 Chrysler, and as most here will know, the turn signal was on the dash, not on the column at all.  It had a "cancel sensor" mounted down low on the column (well under the dash) that activated an electro-magnet sort of deal to disengage the signal switch.  If I were running 12V, I would try to find a working setup out of one of those cars.  (It was used for at least three years or more.)  (I'm thinking that it would be rather complicated to convert one for 6V.)

What was it sensing?

[NickPickToo]

Question:  I have this original light switch with a Buss fuse.  The markings are not clear on the fuse at all.  What amp rating was used here and should I change this with the conversion from 6V to 12V

Edited January 13, 2021 by NickPickToo

[Plymouthy Adams]

original 6v was 30A as per the repair manual...if you go to 12 volts, your amperage draw will be less but if you changing headlights you will need to know the wattage as I could not guess what values you put in here, what other changes you will make for lighting and the wattage related to that....figure total wattage consumption...divide by voltage...not just 12 but your rated voltage during charge which will be closer to 14 volts....then add minimum 20% over that for surge....and you have the fuse you will wish to use...personally I recommend a relay with its own protection fuse inline and keep the current off this older device and extend its use for many many years down the road.

Edited January 13, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[Eneto-55]

14 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

What was it sensing?

On 1/7/2021 at 6:30 PM, Eneto-55 said:
re: self cancelling turn signals, my first car was a 62 Chrysler, and as most here will know, the turn signal was on the dash, not on the column at all.  It had a "cancel sensor" mounted down low on the column (well under the dash) that activated an electro-magnet sort of deal to disengage the signal switch.  If I were running 12V, I would try to find a working setup out of one of those cars.  (It was used for at least three years or more.)  (I'm thinking that it would be rather complicated to convert one for 6V.)

 

I believe that the device on the steering column was activated mechanically with a trip device engaged by a lever or a notch in a 'wheel' on the steering shaft inside the column.  Then an electrical component (a part of the column-mounted device) activated an electro-magnet in the turn signal switch on the dash.  This is how I understand it - I never dismantled the system to see it work, and I no longer have that car.  (My brother still has it, but as I recall, the turn signal had stopped auto-cancelling while I was still driving it, back in the late 70's.  I suspect that the electro-magnet was burned out.)

[NickPickToo]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

original 6v was 30A as per the repair manual...if you go to 12 volts, your amperage draw will be less but if you changing headlights you will need to know the wattage as I could not guess what values you put in here, what other changes you will make for lighting and the wattage related to that....figure total wattage consumption...divide by voltage...not just 12 but your rated voltage during charge which will be closer to 14 volts....then add minimum 20% over that for surge....and you have the fuse you will wish to use...personally I recommend a relay with its own protection fuse inline and keep the current off this older device and extend its use for many many years down the road.

Thank you Mr. Adams  This is very helpful

[Sam Buchanan]

3 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

Question:  I have this original light switch with a Buss fuse.  The markings are not clear on the fuse at all.  What amp rating was used here and should I change this with the conversion from 6V to 12V

 

Nick, the headlight switch fuse is a SFE 30a which is 1/4" x 1 7/16". This is longer than the more common AGC fuses. I bought a box of them at the local Napa store.

[Eneto-55]

Here are some pictures of the 1960 - 1962 Chrysler turn signal set up.  (Found on-line)

[NickPickToo]

We priced out new heat/AC, but it took me outside the budget.  Yes, there is a budget believe it or not.  But powder coating the casing on the old Comfort Master 53 was not out of budget.  We use a local powder coater that gives us great rates.  The radiator core still has decent flow and holds pressure.  Mom got most of the old paint off the badge, but felt if she took any more off she would end up taking the red too.  Now I just need to locate duct hose.

 

 

Edited January 19, 2021 by NickPickToo

[knuckleharley]

2 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

We priced out new heat/AC, but it took me outside the budget.  Yes, there is a budget believe it or not.  But powder coating the casing on the old Comfort Master 53 was not out of budget.  We use a local powder coater that gives us great rates.  The radiator core still has decent flow and holds pressure.  Mom got most of the old paint off the badge, but felt if she took any more off she would end up taking the red too.  Now I just need to locate duct hose.

 

 

That looks seriously good! How much would your mom charge to do one for me like that?