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NickPickToo

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Everything posted by NickPickToo

  1. Been absent for a while. College going, Well. Had a design issue with the dual carb intake manifold. The arms on the rod that run the length of the manifold wouldn't stay in place. Seems like a big job to place pins through the rod and arms. Then if we ever change carbs with slightly different offsets we'd have to do it all over. So my crew (dad) bypassed the rod and arms all together. This setup looks sus, but it's pretty stiff and works well. Trick is to get the linkage length to that the swivel on top of the engine is at the top of its path. Then when you step on the peddle it pulls more or less straight back on both carbs. Now just need to get a heat source to the auto choke. It works fine this time of year without a direct source. It gets hot enough under the hood so that it opens up quick enough. Just wondering how it would work in the winter. Also have a new issue -- throttle now so stable that the brittle pedal gave out
  2. I have a fuel leak coming from the shaft that holds the throttle plate in the carburetor It doesn't leak while operating, only after I turn the engine off. I've played around with the float and that made it better, but didn't make it stop. I have not messed around with the lower mix adjustment yet. Wanted to see what the forum had to say first. Is there an easy fix? As a side, I'm also getting a blue residue in the fuel in that carburetor bowl too? Presently using leaded fuel for the breakin
  3. My mind went blank for most of that. Couldn't tell he was talking about trim when he asked about chrome. Couldn't even recall the hp or that the engine wasn't actually original. But it was a cool experience.
  4. Making the rounds to say thank you. Mr. Mike owns the hardware shop in Howell MI. He's got just about every type of fastener or pipe union you can imagine. If he doesn't have it he can find it. Mr. Adams and his son rebuilt the inside of my engine.
  5. Completed some much needed touch up paint today. These are the last pics without the belt trim. Thanks to Mr. J (Young Ed), the source for the horn and horn relay mounts.
  6. It's a short story, but I'll spare you the gory details.
  7. 215/70R16 = 27.9" f(60 MPH, 27.9", 3.9:1RGR, 1:1 TCR) = 2820 'ish f(55 MPH) = 2583 'ish Does that make sense?
  8. 215/70R/16. Also converted to disk brakes up front. How do you work out RPMs without a tach?
  9. Still working on making it look better, but out for a drive today. First stop O'Reilly's to say thanks to the team for helping us find a lot of the odds and ends. Fasted speed on the main road the speedometer read 55, but the gps tracker on my phone clocked me at 60. That was just comfortably going with the flow of traffic. Engine running at high rpms at that speed so pretty sure that top end for me anyway.
  10. Today we go to the SOS office to get registered and tagged ?. That's not easy lately as you have to go on line every day at 8:00 am and 12:00 noon to try and grab the next appointment that was released (else you can wait till mid august). Usually the site is down from too much traffic and by the time we get on the appointments are gone. Not this time!
  11. never mind. Found the sending unit thread on the forum. Now just need to find an adaptor that the fat end of the unit will fit through
  12. Connected the oil pressure gage today. Reading a steady 40. Having trouble figuring out how to get the temp sending unit end of the of the temp gage connected to the engine. I know where it goes, but it does not look like it fits directly into the engine. Is there a housing for the sending unit? Could someone share a picture of how this should look once connected?
  13. We sourced our wiring from YnZ, including the turn signal, alternator and everything we needed for the 12 volt conversion. It looked really scary when I unpacked the whole thing, but instructions were clear and everything made sense when I started putting it in. We called them before ordering and then as we had questions along the way. They were very responsive. The carry a lot wiring related accessories as well. https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
  14. Update on this. The carb heat shield seemed to work well. I could really feel the temp drop above the shield with and without. However, we started to have excelerator related issues related to getting the linkage set up right. It was getting stuck in exceleration. Great if I'm drag racing but a bit unnerving when your going down the road. I think I have it fixed now. The heat shield was a real pain when it came time to mess with the linkage. Running without the shield for now until I'm sure the excelerator is really stable. Plan to modify the heat shield so I can reach the adjustment points I was having trouble with.
  15. still working out some of the aesthetics and acoustics
  16. On this day. Monday, May 24, 2021 at 3:30 pm. I was able to get the brake lights to work properly My P15 1947 Plymouth 2 Door Sedan is now street legal ?
  17. Anyone have experience with stock gas gage on 12V power? Does it give good readings? Found the following on one of those other sites. Makes since to me. Thoughts? I have a couple of fuel gauges for the '55-'59 series GMC trucks. One is early '55.2 and is 6v, the other is later and is 12v. I measured the the resistance of the limiting and control coils in each and did a few calculations.Rl = Resistance of the limiting coil (empty side)Rc = Resistance of the control coil (full side)Rs = Resistance of the sender = 0 - 30 ohms6 volt gauge: Rl = 53 ohms, Rc = 30 ohms12 volt gauge: Rl = 109 ohms, Rc = 30 ohmsThe equivalent resistance of the sender and the control coil is the same for 12v and 6v. At the empty position the equivalent resistance is 0 ohms because the the resistance of the sender is 0 ohms. At the full position, we have two equal 30 ohm resistances (Rc and Rs) in parallel and the equivalent resistance is 15 ohms. We'll use Re for the equivalent resistance.Maximum Current (empty gauge) (Volts/Ohms):Imax = Voltage * (Rl + Re)6 volt Imax = 6/(53 + 0) = 0.113 amps12 volt Imax = 12/(109 + 0) = 0.110 amps6 volt gauge on 12V = 12/(53 + 0) = .226 ampsPower in watts: P = I*I*R6 volt Pmax = (0.113)*(0.113)*(53) = .667 watt12 volt Pmax = (0.110)*(0.110)*(109) = 1.3189 watt6 volt gauge on 12vPmax = (0.226)*(0.226)*(53) = 2.71 wattsI made this calculation years ago and based on the small amount of power (read heat) being generated decided that it would be safe to run the 6 volt gauge on 12 volts. I have run the gauge in my '49 truck many years on 12 volts without problems.I suspect the leading cause of gauge failure is getting the source voltage onto either the sending unit wire or the control coil terminal on the back of the gauge. Most gauges have a red tag on the sending unit terminal warning against this.
  18. The cover is not really a cover anymore. Its more a cage and well ventilated. Should the resistor blow it should catch some of the pieces. That's just a theory I hope is never tested. Got the fan to work today. The replacement resistor from YnZ came in today as well as another small resistor. Started with YnZ's and got the same results, voltage drop to just over 2 volts (engine off) and only a small slow creeping roll in the motor. Two resistors same result, probably not the quality of the resistor. Probably too much resistance. The YnZ resistor is 3 ohms, 25 watts, 5 amp rated. We purchased a 1 om, 50 watts, 10 amp rated resistor from speedway as well ($19.95) and that resulted in voltage at just over 6v and the fan sounds and runs great. That means the problem was getting the correct resistance for the power needs of the fan. I didn't know the amps or watts for the fan going in but now I calculate the fan is drawing 6 amps (Amps = Volts / ohms), 36 watts (Watts = Voltage^2 / Ohms) which is out of the rating for the YnZ resistor.
  19. Your advice on cars is helpful. The rest, well maybe it was cool in the 1960's.
  20. Just wait till you see the finned box I made to put over it out of the cover from the old regulator that was part of the original 6V system. That's going to put it over the top ?
  21. I get it but....The wiring with the plastic bullet plug is just the fan wire temporarily setting there so I can move it around and see if I can get good current. The other is similar but leads to the ignition switch. Its a temporary set up so that I can confirm current before I make anything final. Regarding that 'stuff' in the middle, we've had good success with YnZ on everything but this, and they are sending me a replacement free of charge. They have stood behind everything they've sold us so far so I'll give it another shot before looking for a 12 fan.
  22. Question for Trim fasteners. The belt line trim and side of hood use mostly the same clip in fasteners. The exception is four fasteners on the hood side trim. One in front and back of that piece on each side. This one has a bolt down back. Any leads on where to locate this?
  23. Yes, The shipping would do you in for sure
  24. Any advice from me regarding the inside of the engine would be, well. But, there is a HP bonus to enlarging the cylinders, so I'd say go for it. Not sure your location, but I had the inside of my engine done at Adams in Howell MI. Great father son team and reasonably priced.
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