My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

[Jerry Roberts]

On some of these old mopars there is a flat spot on the dampers . The flat spot is used so there is room to get the belt on and off . Yours looks OK .  

[casper50]

putting it back together is the fun part.  Looks pretty good.

[NickPickToo]

Question,

 

So we bench tested the starter today and it spun well when we applied current. However, my dad had mentioned that he believed the teeth should have a more defined extension and retraction as power is applied and removed.  How sharply should the teeth be moving back and forth as we engage and disengage the current?  

Edited December 28, 2019 by NickPickToo

[casper50]

sharp enough that the starter will really jump around unless held down.  

 

[Sniper]

On 12/12/2019 at 6:31 PM, NickPickToo said:

So heres the story on the bolts.  Initially the job quoted was for the engine internals, but Dad asked if he could clean, service and mount the head as well as clean and resurface the flywheel.  Dad checked the invoice and the charge for the washers and head bolts was pretty small $38. Mr Adams gave dad the heads up that he just used grade 8.  He said they were better then our old bolts, which he gave back to us, which were worn, stretched and some bent, and that if we wanted to source proper bolts for this we could find them as cheap as he could.  He said my old bolt with the tapped heads (where the spring for the throttle attached) was in pretty good shape and I could probably reuse that and just look for proper head bolts for the rest.   

Pioneer PG-362-25 head bolts, 25 pack, and Pioneer head bolt washers S-1018, 34 count, will work.  $23 at Summit Racing, plus shipping and taxes.

[NickPickToo]

2 hours ago, casper50 said:

sharp enough that the starter will really jump around unless held down.  

 

It jumps alright and needs to be help firmly.  But he thinks the toothed gear in starter should be moving forward and backwards as well.  It does move forward when engaged but then doesn't move back on its own after we take the power away.  We can then push it back in pretty easily so we believe it would simply be pushed back by the flywheel in any case, but we are wondering if that's how it should work.  Should the gear retract more on its own when we take the power away?

[Plymouthy Adams]

when installed the flywheel spinning force at  the greater speed will throw it out...

[NickPickToo]

3 hours ago, Sniper said:

Pioneer PG-362-25 head bolts, 25 pack, and Pioneer head bolt washers S-1018, 34 count, will work.  $23 at Summit Racing, plus shipping and taxes.

So the replacement bolts came and the primary difference other than color was the taper and the head size.  Our new bolts are ABN and the same total length and the same amount of thread as the previous, but the taper starts up near the top making them narrower for most of the unthreaded shaft.  The head size for the new bolts is 11/16 vs. 5/8 for the ones we replaced. the new bolts are still grade eight

Edited December 29, 2019 by NickPickToo

[Sniper]

The part number I listed is a normal type head bolt design, see pic.  The washers I listed are parallel ground and hardened, specifically for head bolt use.  Remember to put the chamfer on the inside hole of the washer against the head of the bolt and a drop of oil on the washer to minimize false torque readings.

[NickPickToo]

Question:

 

The throttle valve in my carb is open when its in resting position and then when the linkage on the carb is pulled against the spring inside the carb, then valve closes.  That's sounds backwards to me.  Is it normal on these older carbs?  If its normal then I think we need to set up the throttle linkage to be pushing against the internal springs at idle (throttle closed) and then relaxed to accelerate (throttle open).  If its not normal than perhaps the valve is on the throttle shaft backwards?  Advice?

 

If this is a confusing question I can post some pics

 

Thanks 

[DJ194950]

Tthat is how my 50 Ply. operates.

 

Just use one of the newer type return springs for throttles that have a spring inside of another in case one breaks,you still have one left. sure do not want a wide open throttle suddenly when driving!

 

DJ

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

I believe it’s the accelerator pump spring that wants to open up the throttle plate when no linkage is attached. Once you have the linkage connected, with a return spring, then they should rest against the idle stop screw. 

[NickPickToo]

Thanks for the info.  Most helpful.  I also found the manual for my specific carb online from the Carb Doctor (Canada), so I know its assembled correctly.  That will make for a smoother throttle functioning because you have the carbs internal spring working against the stronger linkage springs so there is always some slight tension on this. But I can see how you don't want your linkage springs to break and leave you at full throttle while on the road.  

[NickPickToo]

Plumbing at the carbs is 5/16 CN inverted flares into a T for 5/16 inverted flares.  We plan to use fuel hose from there to the mechanical pump which will have an elbowed 5/16 inverted flare nipple to take the hose.   Nipples are long enough on each end to put two hose clips and also putting a little airplane sealant on the nipples to improve seal and grip.   I may take that longer pipe on the front and shorten it to come in a bit closer to the carb.  Before we seal everything in we also plan to try this with the pipes to the inboard side of the carbs, It fits both ways, and see which side looks cleaner.  Need to work out the throttle linkage first.

 

We got the material from O'Reilly's, but the mech at Diversified Creations (Brighton MI) bent the pipe for us at a reasonable fee.  They bend a whole lot more pipe each week than I ever will, so It made all the difference in how this turned out.  You don't want to see the bends that dad or I were able to make.    

Edited December 31, 2019 by NickPickToo

[casper50]

Wow.  Looks great.

[NickPickToo]

Okay,  This video is from last night at about 11:00 pm.  OMG!

 

 

[casper50]

The first start always sounds the best.  Good work Nick.

[Sniper]

nice

 

[Cudan]

Good work, i am jealous,

 

Dan

[PT-105FS]

Great job.  Sounds good. ?

Roger

[LazyK]

such a great feeling when you hit the stater and it comes to life for the first time. 1st rebuilt or 100 it never gets old

[NickPickToo]

That was exciting, but Dad's telling me that as great as that felt, the real pleasure will be when we hear, "the steady rumble of a good idle."   His words.  Hope to post that soon.

[Sam Buchanan]

20 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

That was exciting, but Dad's telling me that as great as that felt, the real pleasure will be when we hear, "the steady rumble of a good idle."   His words.  Hope to post that soon.

 

Shouldn't be too hard.....all you have is two barrels....... 

 

The ol' flathead has a really cool chuckle with the straight pipe. 

[mrwrstory]

Congratulations!  Always a hoot!  Hopefully you'll experience many more. 

[NickPickToo]

Back to this issue.  My belt is slightly rubbing against the front mount.  Not enough to fray it when running for a moment, but i think it would definitely be an issue when its in normal use.  One option is to try to find and fix the alignment in the frame that's causing it to be like this.  Another option could be to add a thin spacer behind the pulley.  If I could get 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch it would be fine.  I'm not sure how doable that second option would be.  Advice? 

 

 

Edited January 11, 2020 by NickPickToo