Water Distribution Tube woes...

[Leviathan]

For those of you who could appreciate a bit of Hillbilly Mechanic humor...here goes!

After working for and hour and a half attempting to remove the distribution water tube from my '50 Chrysler Windsor, I was at a loss as to how to remove it.  It simply would not budge.  Had a makeshift hook that was inserted into the slot, as instructed in the shop manual, with a vice grips clamped onto it...and was whacking it repeatedly with a hammer.  Shot some BP Blaster in around the edges to soften up the corrosion as well but nada.  Being the genius that I'm not...I decided it worth a try to make a new hook out of a hay hook.  Bent up the end and grinded a tip that fit perfectly into the forward slot of the dist tube.  Tied a toe strap to the handle of the hay hook, ran the strap through the front grill (had the radiator removed for easy access) and ....the other end to the front of my Buick.  OK...not the brightest idea. But with a tug in reverse from the Mighty Buick, the hay hook handle broke.  For those of you familiar with a hay hook...those things are tough!  At this point I figured I was never going to remove that tube.  Clamped a vice grip to the end of the hay hook where the handle once was, tapped it with a hammer...and SUCCESS!  Ha!  The pull from the Buick loosened it up to the point where the tube could be removed.  Never thought those tubes would be that corroded into the block. 

[Brent B3B]

Come on......Where is the you tube link? LOL

[46Ply]

Yea, or at least a picture of what's left!

[Leviathan]

believe it or not 46Ply, the tube did not tear the front slot hole.  Don't ask me how...tis a mystery!  It was the original tube...heavy metal.  Brent...the guy renting from me was there during this process of removing the tube.  He said the same thing you did.  We should have video'd it!

[lahti35]

You've given me inspiration...

 

I'm going to pull mine with my Farmall F20... and video tape it

[Tatback]

That was the worst thing I've had to do... Once I finally got mine out (2 weeks later) I replaced it with a brass one. Hopefully it won't be too hard getting that one out in the future. I found my brass on on eBay for 150 and it fit perfectly

[Leviathan]

Iahti...the Farmall may suffice.  I'd go for a Steiger for effect.

 

Tat. I've read about the brass tubes.  They probably would work more efficiently as less corrosive. But I opted for Bernbaum's.  Went in perfectly. Last 2 inches tapped in snug with a piece of 2X4 and a hammer. 

[MarcDeSoto]

I remember the water dist. tube on my 50 Chrysler Windsor was hard to get out too.  That was back in the early 80s.  I remember I used a Come-Along to get it out.  I hooked the come-along to a iron post that was cemented in the ground and started jacking.  Now I know why they call it a Come-along, because it came along! 

Edited October 2, 2015 by MarcDeSoto

[White Spyder]

My issue was solved by making my own slide hammer. The really hard part was getting a new one to fit back in! Ended up having to re-hab the old tube and re-use it as it only had a couple of holes.

[Bobacuda]

The machine shop that messed up my engine the first time It was overhauled boiled the block and told me they had removed the tube - they had ripped out the outermost 6" and figured I would never notice there was still over a foot of tube inside.  Trying to get the remains out caused me recite every English, German and Mexican cuss words I know as I proceeded  to rip out every hole in remains of the tube using a stiff wire.  I finally had to sharpen the end of a long, thin piece of flat metal strap (about 1/8" thick) like a wood chisel and tap it alongside the length of the tube to basically chisel the tube from the block., then I inserted the stiff wire into a rust hole in the tube and was able pull it out. 

 

Damn that was fun.  I can't wait to never do that again.

[Darbone85737]

The machine shop that messed up my engine the first time It was overhauled boiled the block and told me they had removed the tube - they had ripped out the outermost 6" and figured I would never notice there was still over a foot of tube inside.  Trying to get the remains out caused me recite every English, German and Mexican cuss words I know as I proceeded  to rip out every hole in remains of the tube using a stiff wire.  I finally had to sharpen the end of a long, thin piece of flat metal strap (about 1/8" thick) like a wood chisel and tap it alongside the length of the tube to basically chisel the tube from the block., then I inserted the stiff wire into a rust hole in the tube and was able pull it out. 

 

Damn that was fun.  I can't wait to never do that again.

The "chisel" trick is what worked for me as well

[Roadkingcoupe]

Question or theory on removal of water distribution tube.

 

BRASS vs. STEEL

 

Since there are TWO (2) kinds of Water Distribution tubes, steel & brass.

Has anyone had less trouble pulling a brass OEM style water distribution tube rather then the steel type?

 

Put another way....if the steel tubes rust to the block I could see the difficulty in removal.

If the brass tubes do not rust or "bond" themselves to the block then wouldn't they be easier to remove?

If the brass is softer material and also "bond" to the engine block are they equally or more difficult to remove.

 

THOUGHTS?

 

p.s. knowing what material your water distribution tube is made of might alter the technique used to remove form block.

[Leviathan]

Dang! Methinks ya beat me on your dist tube woes!

[Andydodge]

I've also seen some copper tubes here in Oz, either way anything rather than mild steel would have to be a better bet for long term use.........my only experience in removing a tube was when I was working with the 230 I was gunna build up for use in the 41 Plymouth........the 230 was an ex airport tug engine and had been disassembled prior to me getting it, anyway I tried to remove the tube with the bare block sitting on the engine stand with a slide hammer, vice grips, hooked wire and other things, lots of lube, etc, eventually placed the bare block resting on the rear of the block on the ground and inserted 2 very large screwdrivers at an angle into the tube hole and used the screwdrivers as a lever from both sides against  the edge of the block hole and finally got the mongrel thing to move and was able to pull it out..........was going to use a brass tube but ended up selling the engine and all the hipo gear including the new brass tube .........still will remember the water tube with extreme fondness..........lol........andyd   

[Desotodav]

No fond memories here of WDT removal.... but I have replaced it with a copper one now.

[46Ply]

Home in Illinois during the holidays, I took a close look at my P2 engine.  And to my amazement, the water distribution tube slid right out and looks to be in near perfect condition.  All I know about this engine is that it has been sitting for years, waiting on a new home.  Engine turns freely also.

 

 

 

[casper50]

Mine did the same I was very relieved.

[desoto1939]

some people say we should not use brass because of the antifreeze and some form of reaction with the block.  But my question is that we use brass themostats and they are also sitting inthe block and have the same antifreeze running throught it. So why not a problem with the brass thermostat.

 

if anyone can chime in p0lease do. I am not a chemist so do not understand the issue with brass WDT versus Galvanized WDT.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Dave72dt]

most of the modern thermostats are steel that I see going across the counter. most of the sensors still retain the brass and it seemed that brass core plugs were the more desirable to install for years. Add in the number of years radiators had a lot of brass. I take a lot of "facts" posted on the net with a grain of salt. I don't think I 'd get too excited about the odd bit of brass in the cooling system. I think brass is going away more because of the cost factors than any toxicity in the system. Maybe brass doesn't get along with the new extended life coolants that are so common now.

[ptwothree]

My 2cents.  I've never had a brass freeze (core) plug failure. Steel plugs, especially in a less then average maintained system, will rust thru and fail.  

 

 I had a '57 Olds that ate steel plugs like they were M&M's.  Usually on date night.  Someone put me onto brass and no more problems with leaks.  Anyone have corrosion with the copper pipe in your house?

 

I would think that if your steel tube is in good shape and the cooling system is maintained with proper anti-freeze, it should live a long life and won't be too difficult to remove.

[Bingster]

I'm sure I am being repetitive here but who sells the most faithful repro of the brass tube?

[pflaming]

I wasn't going to fess up to this but oh well! I never got mine out. Using a high pressure steam cleaner,a friend and I cleaned the inside of that block and the tube and it's holes to distribute the water. The we made certain the water from the pump would transfer and reassembled it all. I've driven it In 100 degree weather, up to 7,000 feet, a 360 mile round trip and the engine never heats above 180 degrees. Were I to replace another. I would drill a hole in the back of the block, drive the tube pout, thread the hole and put in a plug.

[Jerry Roberts]

...  Water distribution tube ...  Were I to replace another. I would drill a hole in the back of the block, drive the tube pout, thread the hole and put in a plug.

 this is what the rebuilder did with my engine 10 or 12 years ago , except he put in a small freeze plug and didn't thread the hole . 

[Jeff Balazs]

I wasn't going to fess up to this but oh well! I never got mine out. Using a high pressure steam cleaner,a friend and I cleaned the inside of that block and the tube and it's holes to distribute the water. The we made certain the water from the pump would transfer and reassembled it all. I've driven it In 100 degree weather, up to 7,000 feet, a 360 mile round trip and the engine never heats above 180 degrees. Were I to replace another. I would drill a hole in the back of the block, drive the tube pout, thread the hole and put in a plug.

Paul.......Why am I not surprised?  You know have not really earned your keep until you pulled a really nasty one out..in pieces....and without drilling a hole in the back of the block. Go hang your head in shame.

[dodgeguy]

 Thought you were going to tell us the hay hook let go an busted the buik windshield!