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White Spyder

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Everything posted by White Spyder

  1. With the above in mind and condition of the engine, might be best to look at swapping to a more modern engine and Transmission. That will give you the 12v, overdrive and more ponies. The option for a/c is also available.
  2. More than likely for the sission choke and the other for the fluid drive system.
  3. SteveR, thanks for the diagram. Sniper, it was not until I read your post that I kept missing that the key needed to be on to sound the horns.. several others mentioned it but I missed it. With the key on the jumper from the green wire to the relay, the horns blew. Pulled the center ring and fund the wire only hanging on by a couple of strands of copper. All is working as it should now.
  4. Car is still 6 volt positive ground. 1948 Chrysler Windsor. Jumping the green wire to the ground on the battery gets only a click at the relay, no horns. That green wire goes to terminal "S" on the relay.
  5. In the photo below, I have unplugged the wire from the column and jumped the green wire to terminal S on the relay with no sounding of the horns. This bypasses any question of the horn ring on the steering wheel. Something else in not right.
  6. Yes that was replaced. From the thread, I can get the horns to blow when jumping them directly with the battery. I can not get them to blow when grounding the wire from the column to any point on the relay. I do get the relay to click. new relay since this started too just to be sure.
  7. I know that trouble shooting the horns should be simple but I must be missing somthing. Does anyone have the scmatics of the horn circuts?
  8. Work has kept me from following up on the horns. Here is the latest information · Continuity tested good from: o Connection out of steering column to both S terms on the relay. o Connection from H term on the relay to the horn. o Connection from B term to the voltage regulator. · Using a jumper from the connection out of the steering column to the S bullet term on relay does not activate horns or relay. · Jumper from S bullet term to ground (positive ground) on battery the relay clicks. · Jumper from the negative battery post to horn sounds the horns. · With the key off or on the horns do not sound. · Replaced relay (found one local and cheep) no different results. Questions: o On the relay, S term, where does the non-bullet wire go? I want to check that continuity. o Should there be continuity between both the S term connections? o What voltage should be going to the B term on the relay with the key on and off? o What am I missing?
  9. Been traveling for work. keep in mind that I have not moved any wires since the horns quit working correctly. key off, with a volt meter, I get nothing when grounding to the battery at the B terminal. I do get 6.4v at the S terminal. Key on, I get 5.8v at B terminal and 6.4v at S terminal. grounding at the battery, I do not get horns activated when touching the test lead to H.
  10. Cleaned the terminals, back of the relay and the fender wall to make sure ground is good. Opened the relay and it appears to be intact. The lower terminal S has power constantly the upper one the rest are zero volts without the horn button pressed. When the ground wire, upper S bullet is jumped to the POSITIVE ground, the relay clicks but the horns do not activate. any helpful suggestions?
  11. Bit mor info. The photo below is of the relay I removed. It has 4 terminals and they are marked with the letters H, B and S. The one marked S appears to have two connections. Burnbaum’s has a relay listed for my car but it has only 3 terminals and appears to be a universal horn relay. Anyone have an idea on the part number for the 4 terminal relay? I cleaned of the paint and found no part number on the one I removed. TIA
  12. Tested the horns with a jumper from the NEGATIVE terminal and they work. With the jumper from the wire coming from the steering column, I get a click at the relay in the center of the photo but nothing from the horns. When I press the horn ring on the wheel, I don’t get the click at the relay. Bad relay?
  13. So, touch the jumper lead to the POSITIVE terminal? I hate electrical issues!
  14. My horns have quit working. A few years ago I re-wired the engine bay with a kit from Rhode Island Wire. The car is still POSITIVE GROUND. I think my first step in diagnosis is to eliminate the horn relay. To do this I was thinking that I should take the wire coming from the steering column where it connects to the harness with a bullet connector and use a lead to touch to the negative terminal of the battery and see if the horns activate. Am I thinking correctly?
  15. White Spyder

    MPG

    17.5 today for 45 mile trip. Average speed was 55.
  16. On-line bidding is open and they will be live to close. Shipping can be arranged. This company normally sells collector tractors. They just set a world record sale. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2022/05/05/for-the-first-time-a-vintage-tractor-has-sold-for-more-than-1-million-at-auction/amp?fbclid=IwAR0ECyNCYtO8NwfHiOQdtfpLze
  17. https://bid.aumannauctions.com/auctions/catalog/id/31686/
  18. Hooked up the wires and it started smooth as silk. Off to a show today.
  19. I feel your pain on the starter removal. I was not sure about removal of the bell housing support. I custom made two tools to help me get a bit mor clearance without having to mess with the brake and clutch linkage. A shallow socket and a thin shouldered open end wrench. Patients was the word of the day to get small turns on the 5/8 bolt. when you removed the support did you support the transmission or bell housing?
  20. I did a thread about this when I had to change a Welch plug. Be aware that the inlet and outlet need a copper cup crush washer to seal. Tighten up snug then run. If it leaks tighten a bit more then repeat u til the connection has no leaks. Do not over tighten, it will ruin the washers.
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