BobT-47P15 Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) You can use a Plymouth flywheel on the end of the Dodge 8 hole crankshaft. I have done it. The mechanic put the bolts with the head on back side of the crank end. First, you have to align things to get the proper holes in the flywheel aligned with holes in the crank., then add washers and nuts. And, you can mix and match some stuff on those two motors. I currently have a 1957 Plymouth engine with a 1950 Dodge head. Seems to work just fine. You would need to be sure and get the correct vacuum advance for the engine/distributor being used. Doing some internal cleanup of the block sounds like a good idea as they seem to build up crud over the years. Should be easier to deal with those freeze (welch) plugs with motor out of car. Be sure your carb is in good condition. The last one I put on was old, and ran gas into the oil causing the engine to smoke out the oil fill pipe. And was gas in the oil pan. Just a couple things I've learned..........hopefully helpful. Your car looks really good. Now, if you can just make it usable. Edited May 10, 2013 by BobT-47P15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted May 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) 5-25-13, STARTING THE REMOVAL PROCESS. Edited May 29, 2013 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 The expert way to remove an engine! It's a shame that I don't have an accompanying video. So, today I pulled the engine out of my car. I had to cancel my helper on Sunday and I was bound and determined to get it out by myself. My work weekend is Sunday and Monday and for most of those two days I was shopping with my wife as she prepared to visit the Grandchildren next week. I thought I had everything ready last week and I just let the motor sit until I had help. So Sunday night I hooked up the lift and started to take her out. Eventually, I realized that the exhaust pipe was still attached. As I attempted to remove the rusty bolts from the partially raised motor over the increased height of the fender I could hear the faint sound of “dueling banjos” off in the distance. I was only able to remove one bolt before I called it a Night. Tuesday morning – I got under the car with an impact wrench, a wrench on the nut, and after a night of soaking with liquid wrench the bolt came out. As I raised the motor from its home of 45 years (I blew the original motor 7 days after I bought the car in 1968) I soon realized that I would hit the raised garage door with the motor before it cleared the car. If I closed the garage door I could raise the motor, but I wouldn’t be able to move the lift. The music (remember dueling banjos) the music got louder. AND THERE I WAS. While I was pulling the lift with the suspended motor dangling over and in the engine compartment with one arm my right hand holding the area where the hood latch plate previously resided I inched the pair out of the garage into the driveway. Once clear of the garage I raised the motor enough to clear the engine compartment. With that finished and the music still playing I pushed the car back in the garage and placed the motor on its temporary home, a very wide tire on the garage floor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I am sure that once the Banjos stopped playing that you had a great feeling of pride and satisfaction by completing your task without assistance. Lesson learned, when the time comes to re-install connect the hoist as close to the engine as is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Or take the front tires off and put the drums on dollys? I am sure that once the Banjos stopped playing that you had a great feeling of pride and satisfaction by completing your task without assistance. Lesson learned, when the time comes to re-install connect the hoist as close to the engine as is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverdome Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Don't forget to check the water jacket tube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captden29 Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 stay away from the jack daniels I saw behind the engine or you will never finish the project. capt den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 It has been a while. I've been disasembling both motors and cleaning grease. Pop off the freeze plugs and stuck a power washer wand in all the the correct orifices. forgot to tug on distribution tube. Took a hard look at the crankshafts on each motor and realized that the flywheel sticks out 3/16 on an inch on the 230. Thanks to Don's collection of pictures he posted a picture of his bellhousing I have a solution. While at work last night I tried to do a little chat. I think someone said that a 230 flywheel would line-up correctly with the starter. I wonder if that would also require the bellhousing from a 230. Right now I'm happy with Don's solution. The plate behind the timing chain and the timing chain cover must have bent in the tailer on the way back from Iowa. So I'm using the one from the 218. I'm still hoping that I can make a 230 with a few 218 parts. Oil Pan? we'll see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 230 and 218 bell housings are the same. Crankshafts and flywheels are different. Using a 230 crankshaft, 230 flywheel, and 218 bell housing would require no starter mount modification. Using a 230 crankshaft, 218 flywheel, and 218 bell housing will require starter mount modification. But I will say once again. Take your own measurements twice before you make any modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 so a catastrophic failure is more to your liking.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Another thought. Is your 230 crankshaft an 8 bolt flange and your 218 flywheel a 4 bolt? What bolts do you plan to use to mate them? I bought special shoulder bolts to insure I had bolt shoulder and not bolt thread penetrating through the shear area. I did have to cut them to length but that was no big deal. I have extras if you need some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 I'd be sure to use save the better damper pulley...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) PAINTING ENGINE PARTS QUESTION I think (I know) that I got a little carried away with the primer. I primed both sides of the timing chain back plate. My question to ya'll (I lived in Alabama twice while I was in the Army) and I think I know the answer. Do I need to remove the paint from the areas that are going to be in contact with the gaskets or oil? Lately I've just been taking apart the motors, cleaning parts, or painting Pictures to follow. Edited July 4, 2013 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 I think I would get the paint off the inside surface just so I wouldn't be worrying about it. Better safe than sorry. And nobodys gonna see it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 JUST A LITTLE MORE PROGRESS My wife has been visting the grandchildren in Vancouver, WA for the last three-and-a-half weeks, so you would think would have gotten more done on the project. But with cooking and laundry and working I barely have time for my soap operas. Earlier I had questioned if I should use some kind of degreaser for cleaning the valve spring area, or the crankshaft. I bought my last engine in 68 and changed the oil pan and head gasket in 95 when I started this project and still haven't removed the valve covers. I just thought about using a heat gun to liquidfy my oil - or am I just over thinking this. I want to tell myself just to slap this together and move on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 Care full what you do with that stuff. It's basically lead pudding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 SPENDING MORE MONEY. No matter what I do to this car It's alway cost more money than I think should. It's the bibical method of auto repair. One thing begats another thing. Thanks again Don. Things are starting to fall into place. More to come this week. My goal is drive this car to a show on the 28th of July. The same show last year where I burned 3 quarts of oil on a 20 mile round-trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Those bolts look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 (edited) I GUESS SLOW PROGRESS IS BETTER THAN NO PROGRESS Well it starting to come along little by little. It has been very hot this week in Minneapolis so I've done little before going to work in the afternoon. I took tomorrow off so I can get to the joint WPC and Desoto National show just east of St. Paul. Apparently, there is a brass ring that I misplaced. I seem to remember that there was a ring maybe behind the damper it looks like brass washer with a notch that matched a keyway. Is there a manual that I should for to show me the differences between a 218 and 230. Edited July 19, 2013 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmiller Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Care full what you do with that stuff. It's basically lead pudding. Yeah, I would not use a heat gun. Besides the obvious fire risk, lead is easily vaporized and inhaled. I used a narrow plastic putty "knife" to collect it into a tub. I'll drop it off at the next household hazardous waste collection event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 NO progress on anything for six weeks. It's been really hot here in Minneapolis and I've not been inspired. My Daughter and my only two grandkids will be here in less than two weeks and the honey-do is really getting long. Okay enough for my pity party. Even if I don't foresee getting to anything real soon, but I do have a few thoughts and questions. 1. The last thing I attempted was installing the upper rear main seal. Too tight and it scraped rubber off the metal inside the seal edge againt the block. So I was asked in May if I was going to check my bearing. Well I guess I'll check the bearings when I loosen the crankshaft to insert the upper main seal. The gasket that I bought from Bermbaum is a little long and I was told I had to trim the gasket to fit. QUESTION: Has anyone dealt with this and I am I right to assume it is best way to just loosen the crank and slide the gasket in? 2. It seems as though Napa no longer sells the disposable oil filter. I have read that some people have gone without a filter. I have thought about doing that until I decide on the next filtering system. QUESTION: If I elect to go without a filter, do I plug the block or do I run a line from the output to the input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I just plugged both holes. The oil filter on the old flat head six to me is more novelty than useful. However I may remount mine but not connect it up. They do add a bit of nostalgia to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I also got a rear seal from Berbaums and it was too long, called and told to cut to fit. Never looked right at all even after I cut to lenght. Called my local machine shop and he located one for me, but in order to not up the cost he just gave me the name and phone # to the co. It was not cheap-about $30 shipped, but it fit perfect. no cutting and came with a thin plastic pieces that were used to help get the seal in place without cutting the rubber on the block edge. Fit perfect, easy install! Worth it in the end for the correct seal and tools to install without damage. Egge Machine-So. Cal---egge.com Also in the links pages under suppliers. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Thanks Doug When I went back to the Egge catalog, I remembered that they didn't have 230 in their Plymouth section. Checked the Dodge section found the 230s. Anyone else use this seal and I wonder who the manufacture is so that we would all know about this product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 I also got a rear seal from Berbaums and it was too long, called and told to cut to fit. Never looked right at all even after I cut to lenght. Called my local machine shop and he located one for me, but in order to not up the cost he just gave me the name and phone # to the co. It was not cheap-about $30 shipped, but it fit perfect. no cutting and came with a thin plastic pieces that were used to help get the seal in place without cutting the rubber on the block edge. Fit perfect, easy install! Worth it in the end for the correct seal and tools to install without damage. Egge Machine-So. Cal---egge.com Also in the links pages under suppliers. Doug I have changed the seal three times and it still leaks. All of them are from Best Gasket which is what Egge sells. This engine has a NOS crankshaft which was checked and polished. It is the later block with the 2 part seal. I have sourced a NOS MOPAR and a NORS Victor 2 part seal. They are much more heavy duty than the Egge (Best) ones and are different design wise. I will get around in a couple of months to trying one of those. My 1949 Desoto with the engine rebuilt in 1963 by a big auto rebuilder hardly leaks at all. (the car sat from 1966 until the last few months). Go figure. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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