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Our most respected MoPar dealer MoParpro has the gas tank ferrule for your 52. He only has one left. Cost $28.02 FOR 1952 PLYMOUTH DODGE DESOTO CHRYSLER CRUSH FUEL TANK LINE BRASS FERRULE Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I have a 52 Coronet. The fuel line attachment at the tank is a different kind of flare than standard. I believe it’s referred to as a bubble flare. Does anyone know of a tool that produces this? When I replaced the line I had to keep a stub of the original line coming out of the tank. This is a different setup than the ferrule that’s used on the earlier cars and it’s not an inverted flare either.

Andys has the ferrule and did not pay anything like that. I think i have two in my fitting stash.

You're welcome. As far as my research showed, Moparpro was the only vendor currently selling newly manufactured Suburban tanks. Also, with any of his post '48 Mopar tanks, make sure you order the ferrule. Although Chrysler changed to a longer nosed 5/16 fuel line fitting in '49,(shown below), those fittings are not common, hence the need for the ferrule. MoparPro uses a 5/16-20 thread inverted flare (with the brass ferrule.) Here is his video on the subject: gas tank ferrule mopar cars and trucks

Yep, sounds like the issue is in the fuel line.......there should be a small length of hose between the fuel line on the frame and fuel pump, check that it hasn't collapsed inside...then check the fuel line at the tank, if its the original setup then when you undo the line at the tank there should be a small ferrule on the metal line that may or may not be firmly around the tubing.......if lost it can be a PITA to find & replace.....lol.......from memory I vaguely recall that the metal fuel line has a metal joiner around the firewall.........if there is one there, maybe try & undo that & blow air thru there also.........hope you get it sorted.........andyd

That same coil wire attaching ferrule, or at least one very much like it, is also used on the early 1930s Plymouth.

The easiest solution.............don't top off the tank!! I don't know if you have an early or late '49, they have different body styles. The early version is identical to my "48, the late version may have a different connection at the fuel filler. If the filler neck comes out through the fender you can probably replace the large hose without dropping the tank. Here is how I removed the tank the first time on my '48. This can be a pretty straight-forward job or it can be more challenging if the strap hardware is corroded. Disconnect and cap off the fuel line. Be careful that you don't lose the little brass ferrule in the tank fitting! Drain the fuel at this point if you can't readily get the drain open on the tank, better to do it through the line fitting than break the drain fitting loose from the tank. Disconnect the rubber hoses on the filler at the fender. They may be hard as concrete and will have to be cut off, this is a tight fit and may require patience....possibly a lot of patience. Place a floor jack under the tank with a piece of plywood supporting the tank. Open the sender access plate in the trunk floor and disconnect the sender wires. Now......the fun begins. You need to remove the straps securing the tank. Look carefully under the tank and the inside of the trunk to see how the hardware is arranged in your car. Do whatever is necessary to loosen these fasteners so the straps can be removed. If they are corroded, well, this will be a bit more involved. If you are lucky the tailpipe won't be in the way of dropping the tank. If not.....you have some more work ahead of you......domino theory..... Installing is the reverse. An extra set of hands is helpful but not absolutely necessary.

Just in case anyone will find this useful, as I was confused when I replaced the tank on my 1950 Plymouth last year. I ordered a replacement from MoparPro on eBay (free shipping). My original tank was out of the car when I got it but I had the old line and the extra-long fitting like diben shows. But I kept reading about this mysterious "ferrule" that I needed as well. I couldn't find it in my garage, I assumed it fell out when the previous owner removed the tank. I emailed MoparPro and asked if I needed the ferrule on the replacement tank and they said I did. But I couldn't get the new hard line threaded with the old fitting nor with the ferrule; there wasn't enough thread depth to catch on the new tank. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I think I bubble flared the line and used a regular brake line fitting from my pile 'o parts and it is working fine. If you look at the old fitting, it looks like it almost has a bubble flare on the end. There seems to be some confusion about which years used the ferrule, it seems like 49+ did not use the ferrule and used the extra-long fitting.

That's the tank in my P15, it fits and functions just fine. It doesn't have a pickup filter, I installed a filter in the fuel line just forward of the tank. My tank doesn't use the little brass ferrule from the old tank, it has NPT pipe threads.

anyone have a source? I lost it before i knew it was there.

I recently replaced my 50 Plymouth tank with a new unit from Mopar Pro. My original line had an extra long fitting and no ferrule. Mopar Pro told me I needed the ferrule. Turns out you either need a regular inverted flare fitting plus the ferrule, or the longer fitting. It seems like some cars came with no ferrule and the longer fitting. I couldn't get the longer fitting to bite with the ferrule installed. I ran a new line with an inverted flare fitting and the ferrule and it worked great with no leaks and no pipe dope or sealant required.

ok, so I need to replace my oil pressure gauge line. A member is being kind enough to send me a replacemnt tube, but I was wondering if anyone knew where to find these beasts? The ferrule to seat the line to the back of the gauge seems to be an oddity.

Go with the Nicopp. It’s pricey but it’s easy to work and will last forever. The electric pump is nice to have for the reasons you mentioned. Be careful removing the line at the tank. There is a ferrule in there that tends to bounce and disappear into a black hole.

Never mind, I found them on the https://www.robertshaw.com/products/listing/?q=4590-067 website. The ferrule comes with the nut. I guess the ferrule will "breakaway" when you tighten it. Never seen that before but it certainly looks like the critter I'm looking for. Having a little trouble finding a place in Houston to get them. The Robertshaw website shows 2 locations in Houston one is Grainger, but it seems Grainger has discontinued the item. The other is United Refrigeration but not sure if they sell to walk-ins. Might be contractors only - don't know. Google search shows a few other locations. I'll make some phone calls when they open up. In the photo above the installed fitting on the left is one of those fittings. Did you just screw it into the back of the gauge to compress it? I appreciate your input, thank you.

When I replaced the gas tank in my first addition 49 Coupe, I was aware that there is a special long ferrule, that allows for the ferrule to tighten the gas line connection. After removing the fuel line, I took a pick and got it out of the outlet and put the ferrule in a safe place. The new tank required the long ferrule to complete the fuel line connection. Others have bought tanks that did not require it, mine did. It could be on the tank outlet or on the ground where you removed the old tank and moved it. Mopar-Pro wants $30 for that part.

Since I have the oil gauge fitting on two inches of line, a friend told me to try to apply a torch to the bubble ferrule and slide if off. Then take my brake line and cut off the flare and slide the nut on then the bubble ferrule. Then, try to solder the ferrule in place. If I could do that, it might work? Anyone have an idea on this?

The trunk handles usually have a circular ferrule that is crimped onto the handle to keep it located in the licence plate/trunk lock housing......if it is missing which allows the handle to move in/out of the housing then as mentioned theres a good chance its not original............if the actual handle is properly located in the housing but as stated the shaft is too short then its either the wrong handle or housing/handle assembly............over the years i have seen handles that have had a short piece of square rod welded onto the handle shaft to make up the difference..........dunno if this would help......BTW...welcome aboard from Sunny South Grafton, NSW, Australia...........andyd

I am selling these on ebay , see items number 335055613871 and 3350620316 . Im tried using the tapered ferrule on the Robertshaw fitting and it wouldn't seal for me as it seemed to run out of threads on the nut portion . I am using the common brass ferrules from the hardware store and the rethreaded nut portion of the Robertshaw fittings . I am satisfied with the rethreading method . My fittings seal well . I only have three for sale right now but I have ordered more parts for the future .

The bung on my replacement tank was NPT threads, no ferrule needed. I used a brass NPT barb fitting to transition to rubber fuel line.

I have been trying to get some follow-up on this with several manufacturers since this issue came up again a few weeks ago. I compared the McMaster ferrule to an original that I had pulled several months ago and verified that the thread pitches were dissimilar. So far, I have part numbers from 4 different sources that are confirmed as 3/8-24, not the 3/8-27 that should fit in the oil pressure gauge. I have one source that is still trying to get their factory in Mexico to supply the thread pitch information, but after 4 weeks, I'm not holding my breath on this. So as to not burden Ed with being the sole source for this fitting, I am leaning towards following David A.'s approach that should work as I have found just as many 3/8-27 die sources as 3/8-24 breakaway ferrule sources. Once I get some kind of confirmation from the 5th ferrule part number on my list, I plan on following up on this with a comparison either way.

Whilst my car is Plymouth based & uses a 1940 Plymouth handle & taillight fitting, see pic, the way the handle is attached is the same.....there is a tubular "ferrule" that holds the handle to the mount with a flat spring washer between the ferrule and the underneath of the mount.........the ferrule is crimped onto the handle shaft.............I used a small die grinder to grind the crimped areas enough so that the ferrule could be spun on the handle and slowly worked off the handle allowing the removal of the handle , I had a spare piece of tube that matched the worn hole in the mount and I used it to take up the wear and then used the ferrule to hold the handle back on, by attaching the ferrule at 90 degrees to where it had been........still working fine................andyd

Why doesn't my line have that ferrule? And why is your ferrule on the male end and the ferrule shown by Sam on the female connector?

If the fuel line from the tank to the pump has a hole in it anywhere then the pump will not draw fuel, but rather suck air. A very close inspection might be needed to find it. Also, there is a ferrule that goes in the hard line plumbed to the tank outlet, if that ferrule is missing it will draw air. I gather this ferrule is somewhat unique. https://www.moparpro.com/fuel-tank-ferrules/c202

I bought a tank, gas line ferrule, straps and sending unit on eBay from; https://www.ebay.com/usr/moparpro?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Well worth it. Also got the rubber hose for the filler tube.

I would replace the tank with one that resembles the the original. I replaced mine with one from Auto City Classics. Sam got one from Vans Auto. Acetone might loosen the varnish in the filter element and the tank. If you can get low pressure air to blow through the filter, dump the acetone and use dishwasher soap and water with a length of 1/4” chain to scrub the inside. There is a special ferrule when you disconnected the fuel line from the tank. Don’t lose it. The tank I cleaned was for a truck, and didn’t have the filter, but I removed the sending unit and capped it and the inlet, for my process. Rick D.