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CarlN-NDC

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mountain Top, PA
  • My Project Cars
    1941 DeSoto S-8S DeLuxe 2-Door Sedan |
    1948 DeSoto S-11 Custom Club Coupe

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  • Biography
    "Youngster" interested in stock vintage Mopars
  • Occupation
    Network Eningeer

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  • Location
    Mountain Top, PA
  • Interests
    National DeSoto Club

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  1. The previous owner of my DeSoto actually already installed a low pressure inline electric fuel pump. I know the electric pump works, but I am not sure how old it is or it's overall condition. He mainly used it for filling the carburetor bowl if it sat for an extended period, otherwise, he strictly used the mechanical pump. I plan to replace the entire fuel line from the tank to the junction block that transitions into the soft line. Currently, the fuel line is a mix of the original 83-year-old line, a straight section of steel that was done in the 1980s, and a small section of NiCopp that was done within the last 5 years. I will inspect the electric fuel pump when I remove the hard line. Depending on it's condition, I will either reuse it or install a new electric pump. I definitely want to have a backup pump if one or the other fails. I'm also partial to the idea of having an electric pump to push through vapor lock, should it occur during the Summer months or while on tours.
  2. I checked for the camshaft part number in both my 1941 DeSoto parts book and 1936 to 1942 DeSoto condensed master parts list. Each book only lists 1 part number for the camshaft and neither have an "*" to indicate a special use case. Although, there are two different part numbers between the two books. I am guessing the camshaft PN was superseded. My copy of the 1936 to 1942 DeSoto master parts list doesn't have a superseded parts number section, so I cannot 100% confirm this to be the case. 1941 DeSoto parts book PN# 855471 1936 to 1942 DeSoto master parts list PN# 1067201
  3. I am in the process of cleaning, inspecting, and replacing the fuel system in my 1941 DeSoto DeLuxe 2-Door Sedan. As part of the project, I was considering upgrading to a double-action mechanical fuel pump. In 1941, DeSoto was starting to offer an electric wiper motor on the higher tier "Custom" cars, but the lower tier "DeLuxe" cars still had vacuum wipers that typically ran on engine vacuum. However, customers with "DeLuxe" DeSotos had the option of upgrading to a double-action mechanical fuel pump which had a small vacuum chamber on the top of the fuel pump that would supply the vacuum wipers with consistent vacuum no matter the engine speed; which prevented the wipers from slowing down or coming to a halt while accelerating or climbing a steep hill. While I try to avoid driving my DeSoto in the rain as much as possible, I do plan on taking it on some tours and to the national conventions, so I want to be prepared if I do encounter rain during my travels. Currently, my 1941 DeSoto has the standard series "AT" AC 588X single-action fuel pump. The "upgraded" double-action fuel pump for a 1941 DeSoto would be a series "AS" AC 506X. However, in reviewing my vintage AC Fuel Pump catalog and comparing pictures online, it seems the AC 588X and the AC 506X pumps have noticeably different pump arms. Here is a picture from my AC Fuel Pump catalog comparing the "AS" & "AT" series fuel pumps side-by-side, along with a close-up of their respective pump arms: I have found a few AC 506X style pumps for sale online, but I have been hesitant to purchase one due to my concern with the pump arm. (I am still pretty new to the hobby, so I don't have a ton of spare parts or fuel pumps to compare or test with. So I apologize I cannot provide any real-world pictures of the pump arms.) My question being, does anyone know of these pumps interchangeability in a standard 25" 228cui flathead 6? Or maybe someone has even swapped between a single-action and double-action fuel pump in their own car? The last thing I would want is to damage the camshaft lobe that actuates the fuel pump arm! I am probably overthinking this, but I'm an engineer for my day job, so it's par for the course! Thanks! Carl
  4. Hey @keithb7, I was re-watching the segment of your video where you demonstrated a few tests with your clamp-style amp meter. I've probably watched that video alone a dozen times since you've posted it, but I always notice some additional detail every play-through! You had mentioned you weren't able to get an amp reading from the battery cables while cranking over your engine. I hope I'm not pointing out the obvious here, but could it be because the UNI-T UT210D's limit is 200A DC? Just thinking about how automotive batteries are rated (Cranking Amps and Cold Cranking Amps), they are easily rated to output 3 to 4 times the UNI-T's testing range! We know these stock 6-Volt system can draw quite a bit of amps (OHM's law) through the wires. I know in a separate video you had stated you replaced the battery cables in your '38 Plymouth with 2/0 cables. That got me thinking... I wonder at what size cable would you reach a limit of "diminishing returns"? Where it doesn't matter how much bigger up in cable size you go, there would become some other limitation, outside of the battery cables, whether it be the starter itself couldn't accept any more amps or something else. Obviously there are many factors at play that can cause a starter to draw more or less amps to get an engine going. Engine temperature, ambient air temperature, overall condition of the engine (how much compression is it making), condition of the wiring harness and connections, etc. It would be an interesting topic to research further to determine what size cable is the "limit". I'd love to perform this study myself, but my '48 DeSoto is still in pieces! Maybe someone on here has already conducted similar testing? Carl
  5. @DonaldSmith I really hope you do drive your DeSoto to this year's NDC Convention in Canada! I am planning on going to this year's Convention in Chatham. I have my hotel reservations and am planning out my route to get there. I will likely stop half-way-ish in Niagara falls on Monday, and then drive the rest of the way Tuesday so I am ready to go first thing on the Welcome Wednesday! I joined the P15-D24 forum in January of this year, but I've enjoyed reading through many of the threads you have made over the years and am really looking forward to seeing your 1947 DeSoto Suburban at the Convention! Unfortunately, my '48 DeSoto is nowhere near ready, so I'll be driving a modern car. I did write an article in the 2022 November-December DeSoto Adventures Magazine about my 1948 DeSoto, if that helps connect the dots to who I am! Carl
  6. @MarcDeSoto I applaud you for sticking with your 48 DeSoto Business Coupe and not losing interest over 42 years! Or have some other shiny car catch your eye and you forget about your 48 DeSoto. I've been reading through a few of your previous threads on here. You definitely seem to be doing a thorough job! Maybe our DeSotos will meet someday at an NDC Convention! My goal is to have a reliable driver quality car. Mechanically and electrically, I plan to inspect, clean-up, and or rebuild every system in the car. Brake master cylinder, all 6 wheel cylinders, all hard and soft brake lines, front suspension bushings, a full engine rebuild, the list goes on. As far as the body goes, I will definitely repair the structural rust fairly early on, mainly thinking of the inner and outer rocker panels. As for the hole in the rear quarter behind the driver's door, I do want to repair that at some point, but that can wait until it's running and driving. Maybe I'll try to blend in some black paint after that hole is patched, but aside from that, I don't plan on painting the car any time soon. As for the chrome, aside from polishing it, I'm happy with the condition it is in currently. My car will never be a perfect show car or a frame off nut and bolt restoration. Rather something that I can get in and know it will start...and stop...reliably every time. Like many have advised, it is not a race, but I do hope to get it running and driving, at least around the neighborhood, in the next few years. Carl
  7. @Merle Coggins Thank you for the welcome! Thanks for sharing the process you went through to get your flathead disassembled! Your story gives me an additional boost in confidence that I will be able to rebuild my original S11-stamped flathead engine. Fortunately, my engine was never partially torn apart and then left to sit another few decades before it made it to my hands. When I pull the oil dip-stick, it is right up to the full line. Hopefully that is a sign it was decently maintained and none of the coolant/water ever made it into the oil. Whoever was the original owner of my DeSoto must have taken excellent care of the car prior to the head gasket breaking. Considering it lived it's entire running life in Worcester, MA. Which is in the rust-belt, much like here in NEPA (Northeastern Pennsylvania). While yes it has some rust issues, they shouldn't be insurmountable to repair. In fact, it still has a set of bias-ply snow tires on it! So it definitely saw road salt and less than ideal weather/road conditions. Once I get the engine out and disassembled, I plan on taking some measurements with a telescoping gauge set, micrometers, and a dial bore gauge. With 118,700 miles on the odometer, I am interested to see if it was ever bored-over back in the day. I've never used any of those tools I just mentioned, but I want to learn and have some idea of how worn, tapered, or out-of-round the cylinder walls are before I take it to a machine shop so I can have an informed discussion with them. Carl
  8. @keithb7 Thank you for the welcome! Yes, I've seen your videos! I know you always say in your videos, you are a shade-tree mechanic, a hack, etc. Keith, you have no idea how valuable I find them. No exaggeration, I have watched nearly all of your videos, many of them multiple times. Your "Introduction To Mopar Flathead Engines" videos, I have watched over and over again, each time picking up some additional detail I missed the times prior. Then I look through my shop manual and parts book to compare. I am not a mechanic either. My day job is as a computer Network Engineer. I sit behind a desk and computer screen for 10+ hours a day. When I get home from work, I like to switch off the screens and work on something the polar opposite that has zero computers! I know, rare for my age. Fortunately though, due the the nature of computers, they break, glitch, and require updating, which inevitably breaks something else. So I've gotten quite familiar with the troubleshooting process! What changed, let's try to narrow down the problem, how many devices is this affecting, was something accidentally unplugged, were updates run? But I enjoy troubleshooting and fixing things. From early on, I always took apart old electronics to see how they worked! Thank you again! Carl
  9. @Doug&Deb Thanks for the welcome! Regarding joining the National DeSoto Club, I joined last April 2022. I attended the 2022 NDC Convention last year in Altoona, PA. I made lots of new friends and everyone there was a wealth of knowledge. I credit many of them for starting me off on the right foot explaining the differences between the semi-auto shifting transmission and the Fluid Drive coupling. Rather than incorrectly calling it a Fluid Drive Transmission!! I have every intention of attending the 2023 NDC Convention in Chatham Ontario, Canada this year. Unfortunately, I won't be driving my DeSoto to an NDC Convention any time soon, but it was a fantastic experience last year. Like many have advised, this is my project car, not a daily driver that I need to put back together to go to work the next day. Carl
  10. Hello All, I own a 1948 DeSoto S-11 Custom Club Coupe. I purchased it in September 2020, it is my first project car & first pre model year 2000 car I've ever owned! Now is a good time to say I'm probably one of the youngest members on here (22-years old), but have a great respect for these old cars and want to keep my 48' DeSoto as stock as sensibly possible. While I've had the car for about 2-1/2 years, I haven't physically done a ton of work to it. I am a read the manual cover-to-cover type of guy. So out of principal, I've taken the last 2 years to study books, forum threads, and videos on these old Mopars before barreling in. Opposed to taking things apart, have no idea what I am looking at, and then end up with a pile of parts and me scratching my head! As such, in these past 2 years, I've learnt ton about flathead engines, or L-head if we're being technical, Lockheed drum brakes, the Tip-Toe shift transmission (My DeSoto has the M5), the difference between the semi-auto shifting transmission and Fluid Drive coupling, and how to properly repair and maintain a 6-Volt positive ground electrical system. Now I feel decently prepared to finally get my hands dirty and work towards getting my 1948 DeSoto back on the road! A little background on my car. It spent most of it's life, both active and while it sat for several decades, in Worcester, MA. It is now in NEPA (Northeastern Pennsylvania). It has 118,700 miles on the odometer. It was last on the road/inspected in April 1960. The black paint is original as far as I can tell. It has the original 237ci flathead engine in it, including the "S11" stamp on the side of the block! It has the M5 Tip-Toe shift transmission with Fluid Drive coupling. The wiring harness....exists, but I would not dare to put a 6-Volt battery in to even "see what works". All the wires in the engine bay, under the dash, and in the trunk are crusty, corroded, and the cloth insulation crumbles at the slightest movement. On a positive note, none of the wheels are locked up, so hopefully when I go to pull the drums off it won't be a nightmare. Unfortunately, said original S11 engine is locked up. Before everyone types-up all of their remedies to freeing up a stuck engine, I already know what the cylinder walls look like....it would do serious damage if I did manage to free it up. Two members from the Maryland Chapter of the National DeSoto Club graciously made a house call this past October 2022 and helped pull the cylinder head....the diagnosis is not good. A broken head gasket right between cylinders 3 and 4. Those two cylinders must have sat full of coolant for decades and rusted the cylinder walls and pistons in place. As long as the block is not cracked, I do intend on reusing the original block, but it will definitely have to be bored-over .030, .040, .060..?? What are my plans: A full mechanical and electrical restoration, but keep the body work to a minimum. I don't want to create a show car with perfect paint, I would never drive it if I did. There are definitely some rust issues that need to be addressed. The chrome rocker panels are hiding the majority of the rust. It needs both inner and outer rocker panels on both sides. Also, the trunk pan is quite thin on the driver's side, so much so, the seem running along the inner wheel well has separated! Currently, I am planning and gearing up for an engine pull in the next month or two. I already have an engine puller, load leveler, and engine stand. I plan to do the complete disassembly myself: intake and exhaust manifolds, valves, tappets, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, etc. Then I will take it to a machine shop and have it boiled out (get that rust, scale, and sludge out!). Have it checked for cracks, and if it passes, then have them tell me how much it needs to be bored-out to get to all clean/fresh metal. Aside from the boring-over, I'll have the machine shop deck the top of the block, install new valve guides, and maybe have them install new valves and lap them. I am definitely getting all new valves, just not sure yet if I'm going to lap them or have the machine shop do it. All other reassembly I plan to do myself. As I've said, I've spent the past 2 years researching. I've actually read through many threads on here as a guest for over a year! I figured it might be fun/helpful to create an account now that the work is starting so I can post my progress updates! Thanks for reading! Carl I know you all love photos, so here are a few, and so you can see the unfortunate state of my engine! Obligatory photo when I rolled it out of the garage this past Fall 2022: A photo I found of my DeSoto at an auction before I purchased it: Driver's side rear quarter panel. Worst of the visual body panel rust. But the rocker panels are hiding the nasty reality...: Current state of the interior: How the engine bay looked when I first got the car: Original S11 stamping!: Immediately after removing the cylinder head, prior to any vacuuming/clean-up - October 2022: Cylinder 3 & 4 Close-up...Yikes!: Broken head gasket:
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