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Los_Control

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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. Thread seems 10 years old, but https://dcmclassics.com/suspension-parts/304-br-563-brake-clutch-pedal-bushing.html
  2. I have no clue what year it is .... no way I would believe is a 1970 falcon jack .... When was last year for falcon? Looking at the layers and quality of rust .... that must be 1940's or 1950's ... JMHO Edit I see you are not in the states, they made falcons longer there then here so I am wrong there.
  3. Sometimes you just have to flush twice to get rid of it
  4. several years ago I was active in another forum with 4x4 vehicles. A member their interested me because he did powder coating in his garage. And he was using a old electric oven from a kitchen. Limited on space but could do 1 wheel at a time. Was all kinds of small parts he could do. Motorcycle parts ... He was very busy earning money with his home made setup. After a couple years, he paid for a addition to his garage and built his own oven. Had a short mono rail system to pickup the prepared pieces and roll them into a spray area and then into the oven. Now he could do complete rear ends and bumpers and things. Just a business they started at home and had more business then he could handle. ... It worked because he was smart. I personally would not want to powdercoat anything I own .... if it was yours I would not have a issue with it.
  5. Not what you are asking, could be a simple easy fix and replaceable as needed. Watching a welding channel on youtube, guy built a nice tilt deck equipment trailer. Get 1/2 way up and tires would start spinning and things go sideways fast. He welded angle iron on the ramps for cleats ...he was loading tractors & back hoes etc ... not what you want. But maybe can use the idea and 1/2" rebar? Have any expanded metal laying around?
  6. 100% correct ... Nice job looks great. 3 hours is about right ... with a truck about 25 min to pour it ... a few hours to finish it. I honestly could not finish that today, while I have done it in the past. Today it would setup on me and lose it. But I can do 10 bags at a time! I can still get er did, just aint got er done yet. .... may explain while my progress on truck is so slow. I like @lonejacklarryadvise, I may need to wear my hardhat under the truck ... maybe bring "my pillow" with me. Take a afternoon nap while under there. I think the creeper will be a great help to me, see how it goes.
  7. Really seems to be a preference, either you like them or hate them. I remember hating them, yeah the wheels were in the wrong place awkward to get on & off them. They would always get stuck on a pebble or a tool .... pia! I always chose to not use them in the past, easier to just lay on the concrete and get the job done and then get out from under there. I am dealing with a awkward situation, uneven ground. I am permanently disabled with a bad back, I did lay under there and get the front frame finished. Will be a lot more time under the cab then the front. Just hoping the creeper will help. Just being a flat surface it did help when I fixed the u-joint in my chebby. I went ahead and ordered it yesterday .... wife talked me into it Poor way to do it, only way I can get it done by myself. The kids at the lumber yard load up 10 bags, I park my wheel barrow under the tailgate, drag a bag forward and empty it in, mix it with a hoe, dump it out .... no lifting. Up & down a few times to finish it ... And I wont be able to move for 2 days. Then pour another 10 bags and repeat Took a week & 1/2 to pour the 30 bags in the center. Now still need to do the sides. If it bothers me, I may clean it all up and paint it gray ... might look better if all one color.
  8. Anyone use these? Looks a little cheesy to me, same time I like the dual purpose and I have limited room to use/store 2 separate tools. So I think I will pull the trigger and order one .... Just wonder if others did the same and regret it? My project is kinda stalled right now, with my back it is very difficult to do the work under the cab that is needed & move forward. So I have been pouring concrete so I can get a creeper to roll around on. Yes concrete is especially fun with a bad back. The creeper is sorta mandatory, while the seat is optional but see it as very useful.
  9. In my situation, a off topic dodge caravan we inherited. Father in-law put rubber hoses in when rebuilt the transmission. They have caused issues and leaks and is a temp fix not a real fix. Since the brass nipples are already installed. Front wheel drive engine vibrates while radiator is frame mounted and distance is about 12" ... possibly teflon hoses would be ideal. Even the dodge B1B used a rubber line from factory in the oil pressure gauge line to deal with vibration from engine to cab. While flexible lines are not original, neither are disk brakes or rear gear changes ... both are a upgrade.
  10. Curious question. ... while it was never stock in the older cars. It also was never stock in my 1948 house. I am in the process of re-plumbing my house and using plastic pex because it is "said" to last 100 years ...I like it because easy to work with. We know cars did not come with plastic lines. I wonder if any plastic lines today would work for oil lines?
  11. I have no honest answer ... I put brass in mine, then read about others that have the same questions. With the two different metals, the cast iron block seems like the weak link and it will fail before the brass. Nobody seems to have a real life experiences with the block failing after using brass .... maybe it takes many years? A brass water distribution tube is common, no issues reported there. Just saying I have asked the same question but nobody seems concerned with it. I just kinda quit thinking about it myself.
  12. If it were me, I would look for a truck shop that works on wheels. Years ago when I was retreading truck tires, there was a goodyear dealer that did truck repairs, front end alignments and had a wheel shop. They had a machine they would set a wheel on a round table, it would rotate through a sand blaster. They might have to turn the wheel over and send it through a few times, but was all automated. They could put several truck wheels on the table at a time .... Was very efficient and reasonably priced. They were also setup to paint the wheels. May not be any shops like that today, either way you should take your wheels down have the tires dismounted and the wheels inspected by a professional. What you are worried about is rust and no bent lock rings. The rings have a lip on them that fits in a groove on the wheel. So heavy rust could compromise the lip on the ring, making the ring unsafe. Same with the groove in the wheel, if severe rust could be unsafe. While some light surface rust would be expected, as long as strength is not compromised. While many here would change their own tires, at one time I ran a service truck and changed truck tires at the shop and also on the highway ... is hard work and not sure I would want to do my own tires today. But these are the guys that I assume will be working on your tires and they are the one to inspect the wheels and tell you if "they" would mount new tires on them. Was always the #1 rule at the shops, if you see something like a bent lock ring or a unsafe rusted wheel ... DONT touch it, tell the customer they need to replace it. Inspected, if they pass then sandblast, paint, mount new tires. make z00m z00m noises
  13. Yup, thats a true widow maker. While in a perfect world they worked 90% of the time ... Just such a poor design you could never be 100% sure it was locked together correctly. While if it is split rim or a lock ring, The tire installer can inspect for damage and refuse to put it back together, or inspect it as it goes back together and feel safe. On another forum, the users have been buying off of ebay some wheel centers and rims for Hot rods. This way they can get the 15" wide wheels they want and weld in their own center section at the offset they need. There is some pretty good phrase for the quality ... might be worth a look to see if they have what you need. Another option is wheel spacers, bolt to your hubs and have bolt pattern for your new wheels. A build I am watching, the dude is using a 3/4 ton dodge 4x4 chassis and had adapters made to bolt up 22.5 semi super single tires/wheels to it. Just seems like you could do the same with your 6 bolt hubs, make a adapter to fit a modern tubeless rim that is readily available.
  14. Lot of deserved press on the widow makers. ... Thats what they did. Actually the wheel was 2 pieces and had a lip on one 1/2 and a groove on the other 1/2. They just sucked and no matter how sharp you were, you could never guarantee they were locked together when changing a tire. A old timer was showing me how to change them ... aired it up in a cage to 120 psi ... while rolling it out of the cage it came apart. The tire was out of the cage and he was in the cage rolling it out. Made him jump straight up and hit his head on the cage and knocked him out. Just saying he could have been in front of it bolting it on the truck and come apart. While a rim with a lock ring on them are very common and in use today. You can inspect the condition while apart, yours may be junk and need replaced, but you can tell by looking at them. Just asking you to not confuse a widow maker with a lock ring. They are totally different animals.
  15. I had a 1969 Triumph, yeah it was a chopper with a hard tail frame & a 750 Honda font end, wide buckhorn bars ... That bike was so well balanced was almost like cheating. Could actually stop for several seconds and just rotate the bars to keep balance and then creep forward .... I opted out of them and let the big heavy Harley's play. Welcome to the site @Coyle996 and wish you well with your projects.
  16. Those are crap colors and not worth posting about. ... makes me think about what my wife would want ... crap colors!
  17. @pflaming I really appreciate your post. I am hoping in the future you can continue to post. You really have showed many times things I may not follow .... I really do want to follow you. Lesson one, do not listen to idiots on the internet.
  18. Ok I will play, Been here awhile and never seen this thread before. To be honest, I just came to a point in my life where I thought I wanted to have a old truck to play with and drive. I had a 1951 ford 3/4 ton with a flathead v8 I guess was 1975 or 76 in school. I thought I wanted another. I knew my Uncle had a 50th anniversary edition I could talk him out of. Think it was a 1955. Long story short, I waited too long and it was gone .... What he did have was a 1949 dodge pilothouse up for grabs. I remember the old dodges were the most ugly duckling of all in the 70's, would not be caught dead driving one. Then being 55 years old and wanting a old school truck, looking at the old pilothouse ... I fell in love with it. I took on the 1949 B1C project, life happens moved out of state and never got to finish it. Found a good home for her and gave it away. Then in Texas, I saw a craigslist add for a 1949, fell in love again. Here I am today
  19. Heck I am not picky what day I eat pie ..... grabs Ed's plate of pie.
  20. There is nothing wrong with your request ... except need pictures of what you have to give any idea of worth. With pictures I assume you will get a lot of ideas.
  21. I did the angle iron first, was easier to drill holes in. Now I can use it as a pattern to mark pipe and drill holes in them. The Main pipe measures 2 3/8" OD, & 3/16" thick walls ... pretty heavy pipe and makes a solid base. Next step I have 1/2" black steel gas piping, I have 1 1/4" galvanized top rail for a cyclone fence, also 4" sched 40 pvc sewer line. A new pipe leftover and never used I chose to make it 36" long, I have a few sheets of 18 gauge 36" long and assume wont really need it longer. First issue I found, the 1/8" angle iron has a small amount of flex at 3' long. Inserting metal then clamp it down fixes that. Thinking The round pipe may be more rigid ... or not. Time will tell. But as time goes forward I can always change pipe and evolve. Next step is to add pipe, then sand and paint everything.
  22. Great looking car, looks brand new compared to my heap. Sad that it seems to be missing the air cleaner which can allow moisture & dirt into the engine. Just seems to be a better chance the engine is stuck when it has no air cleaner. Same time my truck had no air cleaner, sat about 15-20 years and was not stuck and runs decent with little effort. First thing I would do is put marvel mystery oil, atf/acetone mix or even straight atf in the cylinders and let it sit a few days before trying to turn it over. Then clean the car up and do what you want. These old flatheads are pretty forgiving and respond well to tlc. So simple to work on it is therapeutic. As others have said, is cheaper to keep her. Looking forward to see your progress with it and wish you luck with whatever direction you choose.
  23. Yay for cheap tools! I have been needing something like this for some time, Saw a video Fitzee did and made my own adjustments. Instead of welding the pieces together, I am bolting them in. I have shown is angle iron, but have a few different sizes of round pipe I can swap out with the angle iron and make different radius bends. I have made exactly 2 bends on it so far, kinda impressed how easy it was to make a smooth radius bend or even a 90 degree flange. I need to spend a lot of time on it to learn what it can do. Same time I think others have built something like this and may have useful input. Also Fitzee made his a dedicated stand up tool, while mine for space it can sit in a corner & take up no space, just pull it out and put in vice when needed.
  24. I just wish I used my hands productively and had a running truck .... No I use my hands for entertainment.
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