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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. You probably be better off to pass on that deal. The studebaker would probably haul more then your buddies truck, then he want you to do it all the time.
  2. How did you apply it? A warm motor and let it soak, then rinse off with hose?
  3. looks like a fluid drive with the long shaft
  4. Location: --north (Up in the Adirondack Mtn's),central ny With that for posters location, then knowing is at a U-pull, will need to look up some phone numbers and hunt it down. I remember calling some of those places in the past, they pretty much refuse to tell you over the phone what is in inventory. But you show up and pay your $3 entrance fee, they will tell you some things then.
  5. Seems the first thing I have learned about these trucks, nothing is as it appears. I really thought the 1949 B1C in my avatar, was a stock unmolested truck. Then found out the motor is a 1937, The rear has a 5 on 5 bolt pattern, the front is 5 on 4.5 So to be honest, I have no clue what 3 speed toploader I have in the 49, it could be 37 also. And the B1B that this photo above is from, It has 3 on the tree linkage, we know this toploader did not come original. Will have to run the numbers and determine what it is. And we are not the H.A.M.B., sometimes it is fun to
  6. Could be, think were safe that the truck was parked before St Helens blew Thanks For advice squirebill, I will clean it up and then oil it and store it. Someday someone will need it. I was looking at this photo, and they just look different to me, But mine has many years of crud on it, maybe cleaned up and would be the same. I assume the small brass gears are the syncros, I just dont see them in my photo.
  7. Sounds awesome, those ol hit and miss ... just cant describe the joy they bring, listening to them do their work.
  8. 48 was he first year of the pilot house, I cant think of any difference between the 2. Maybe the radio is different? I doubt it. I have a 1949 and a 1952, electrical I can say the horn for my 52 is on fender well, 49 on firewall. Radio on 49 is left of the column, 52 is right of the column. Heater switches will depend on your heater model and not the truck model, you may have a single or 2 speed fan motor. Not sure about wipers, seems some have electric and some vacuum. But all the major items like lights, starter, ignition etc are the same. The diffe
  9. I believe this is where the po of my parts truck gave up. As in, not worth fixing. Truck is a B1B with 218 flattie, 3 speed on the column linkage. And this is the trans that is in it, but it is missing the rest of the top. My first thoughts was the scrap pile, but now wonder if it could be a good donor. I know I will have to check the numbers and learn more about it. Sometimes, is fun to just get a bad picture and see if you can tell what it is.
  10. Welcome to the forum AKmark. That is a good looking truck. I am new to the forum and these old dodges myself. But I have been looking to find the right older 40's 50's truck, to use as a daily driver, for a couple years. And one look at molly and I fell head over hills in love. Anyways, hoping to have her on the road by spring time. I live in Tri-cities, 30 miles away from Hermiston. Maybe we can get together with the trucks sometime, or if you need a hand give me a holler.
  11. From what I have read, there was some changes in the engine block about 1934. This moved the starter out and you needed the correct starter and bell housing to use a 1934 or older engine, or 1935 and newer. I hear the 3 speeds which was the standard manual trans of the day was a direct bolt in swap other then the 34, 35 year changes. The truck in my avatar is a 1949 3 speed floor shift, with a 1937 218 engine. The 4 speed on the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks was a special order. Most likely you will find a 3 speed before a 4 speed. Here is a little about the engines and the ch
  12. cant help you with your parts, here is a video that shows the rebuild, and puting it back together.
  13. I'm thinking you can bring it to the bbq, just make a stop along the way.
  14. A few pages of reading here, but if I wanted to use a Hemi, I would read this. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hemi-tech-transmission-adapters-flywheels-starters.118607/
  15. pretty wise choice, get what the wife likes and park it where she can see it. Then, "just as soon as the truck is finished, we can get started." Good thinking on your part.
  16. Congratulations! Awesome you worked your way through it. Any chance to post some picks and info/links about adjusting the gauge?
  17. hehehe good one, I wont give the answer away
  18. looking good My thoughts above may not have been clear. I was thinking you could not return the starter because you been welding on it. So to get you by, maybe install a universal pull starter switch on it to bypass the foot switch. I have never done this, dont think it would be to hard. And would be able to still use the starter to get you by, till got the correct starter. Here is a universal pull starter switch for a tractor that should work, cost $8.99
  19. I figure you are kinda locked in on this starter. I wonder if you cant remove the starter solenoid that is welded on, come up with a push button temp wire situation. Install the sexy foot starter when you get a good rebuildable core? But since you cant return the starter you have, would try to use it to get you by.
  20. fwiw, I am no purist. I recently bought 2.5 trucks. I want to make the B1C a daily driver and as stock as possible. The B3B I am robbing parts off of. When finished with the 49, I plan to build the 52 with original flat 6, but remove the top, home made sheet metal up front with grill shell, fenders and splash aprons, open engine bay, T5 trans and 8.8 rearend ... you get the idea. A stock 49 to chase parts with, a 52 to play with. I wish you good luck with your radiator issue, hoping it is not worse with block, head issues.
  21. welcome to the forum, I love your truck already. Please send
  22. I did have a bolt in this hole to hold the coil bracket. That bolt had come loose, the bracket rattled around and ruined the threads on the bolt. Just curious if this would leak compression or water? Trying to picture in my mind, how this truck ran 30 years ago. I have seen others use a stud on this hole, seems best to me. Would I need to add some sealant to these threads? I hear of several different types of sealant being used for head bolts, wonder which ones work.
  23. show some pics ! we love pics \o/
  24. My thoughts, they were a option not from the factory but from the dealer. Were installed by the dealer or the owner. Seems they are fair game to any color combo you like, and still be correct.
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