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Richard Cope

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  • Content Count

    129
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  • Last visited

About Richard Cope

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    cope.r@att.net
  • Occupation
    Quality Engineer / Retired

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jackson, N.J.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe

Converted

  • Location
    New jersey
  • Interests
    Car was restored stock several years ago. Want to modernize lights , brakes for safety and up date

Recent Profile Visitors

655 profile views
  1. On my 39 Plymouth painted the steering column, emergency brake etc. several years ago, unfortunately the paint didn't hold up especially on steering column. Went on Prismatic Powder's web site and got several color chips from them. The Bend Brown PSB-5986 was a near perfect match for some untouched pieced that had never been painted. Purchased 5 pound of powder, which turned out to be too much. This summer took the steering column sleeve, gear shift, emergency brake handle and mirror off of the car and removed the paint. A local shop charged me to spray and bake, which was very reasonable. Pieces came out great and is more durable than paint, however took some effort getting them ready to paint. Check out their web site. Richard
  2. Thank everyone for your replies, Evans antifreeze was put in the engine after being rebuilt many years ago, however less than 4,000 miles . Last summer Evans tested and indicated that it was till good, however with the age want to give it a flush.
  3. Going to be flushing my antifreeze and want to replace the petcock in the engine block, hasn't been opened in years. Like to have one a new one on hand before starting. Does anyone know the thread size, thinking that it is probably 1/4 NPT however not sure. The engine is a stock 201 used in a 1939 Plymouth. Many Thanks Richard
  4. My 39 Ply is work in process, still have to paint and install the correct center horn button, steering wheel was recast. Have to put the carpet in. Was working under the hood, haven't had an opportunity to put the side panels back on. The tires are radial, 215/70/R16 from Diamond Tire, wheels are from Summit - 16 in X 6 in. , chrome outer with painted center, clips were welded on to hold the stock hubcaps. Tires are almost the same diameter as the 600X16, however wider. From the side view not much difference however from the front and back one can see the difference in width, handles and stops much better with these tires.
  5. I copied some of the photos the shop took during the conversion into a Word file, converted into a Pdf, however both are too large to attach. If you forward your e-mail will send to you. Putting the master cylinder on, required the most work, space is really tight under the 39. Stock wheels will not work, I used Croker's 4.5 X16, which worked fine with my 600x16 bias tires. However I found that even though the brakes stopped the wheels good, didn't seem to be enough traction between the tire and road, especially if the road is wet as the 39 coupe is light. By bias tires only have 3,000 miles on them and show no dry rot, however they are 20 + years old therefore wanted to replace them. Initially was going to change to 600X16 radials however ultimately when to 215/70/R16, purchased from Diamond Tire as white walls. The diameter is the same (speedometer not affected), however much wider. From the side view car looks the same, from the front or rear can see the tires are wider. Steers, handles and brakes much better with the wider tires. Using Summit smoothie 16 X6 in wheels. I wanted to use stock hubcaps, welded tabs purchased from Mopar Pro onto the wheels.
  6. Rich, This is rich Hartung with the 39 Desoto. Go look at my reply to your post about the water pump. Also call me if you have any questions I can explain.

     

    Rich

    desoto1939@aol.com

    Cell 484-431-8157

    home 610-630-9188

  7. In the next few weeks going to be changing the radiator on my 39 Plymouth w/ stock engine and at that time going to also add a pusher fan. According to the manual, remove the hood, lower side panels, hose connections, wiring, three screws on each side and then the radiator core can then be lifted out. Has anyone followed this procedure, appears that the water pump will also have to be removed as space it very tight. Will probably remove the water pump, since will be installing a pusher fan this will give extra space when putting it back in. I have one of Andy's new water pumps, on the lower drivers side is a threaded opening with a hex plug (not in the original pump) screwed in, appears to be the same thread size as a temperature sensor probe. Installing a probe in this locations would put it directly in front of the hole in the block for coolant (see photos). Would seem to be a good location to put a probe, however concerned that it may block the flow a little. Has anyone used one of these new water pumps and if so have you replaced this plug with a sensor? Appreciate your comments, Regards Richard
  8. The discussion on the KD tool 2203 for removing fan blade bolts was perfect timing for me. I have an upcoming project in which will be taking the fan off of my 39 Ply. and space is tight. Was able to purchase one of the tools on e bay. Many Thanks
  9. The LED's work good around town and because the current draw is low will continue using. It would be great if they projected a greater distance. I took the fog lights off however may put them back on and test the combination when driving on secondary roads. Just completed putting a banjo steering wheel on and converting to a floor shift. Next project is to convert to 12 volts using a 50's generator - under the hood look won't change. Still want to conserve on voltage -Classic Dynamo sells the same bulb as a 12 volt, will try out and keep posted. Pete, the floor shift was out of a P7, it is a much easier shift now when going from high to low. Kept all of the original parts if some day it can be converted back to a column shift.
  10. Have been using LED's headlights in my 39 Ply. for over a year which has a stock electrical system (6 volt / positive ground). They produce a light that is much whiter and brighter than the standard bulb. The ones that I am using fit the standard socket with the three post that holds the bulb, just a matter of changing the bulbs. With the lights on & the motor not running the needle on the amp gauge doesn't move, seem to be using very little electric. Disadvantage is they do not seem to project outward as much as a standard bulb and they are expensive, believe around $20.00. Purchased from Classic Dynamo and Regulator Conversions (www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com). Part # is FE2A (6-23v Pos Earth P30d (APF) 40/36 w "Double Dipper". If ordering, be careful for they also sell as a negative ground. They also sell another a bulb that fits in the parking light socket of the 39 Ply. (located above the headlight), highly recommend - very bright. Part # is AE1C (6v 10w BA9s). Check out their web site may find it interesting.
  11. Since you have already converted to 12 volt, may want to consider what I did. For my 39 Ply. buying gauges and sending units on e bay was expensive that may or may not work. I sent a non-working gas gauge to D&M Restoration, Jack indicated that he could attach the face plate to a Ford gauge, that worked on 0 - 90 ohm. Fortunately I had a 0-90 ohm Isbro sending unit, and when I put a new tank on connected the Ford gauge w/ Ply. face to the new tank and sending unit. Works great and is one wire. I believe he said the price differs depending on the gauge. I went a little more, since had the gauge cluster out sent the other gauges and had the faces reprinted. D&M did a quality job. Rich
  12. Hi,

    I was reading the post on early Warner overdrives and seen your comment.  I have a 39 Ply. with stock engine and have been looking for a R7 transmission / overdrive for it.  I am currently in the process of converting the stock transmission to a floor shift as the shift cable has been causing issues.  I recently installed a Mitchel's overdrive, however having vibration issues.   I believe the 39 Chrysler / Desota transmission with overdrive can also be converted to a floor shift and will bolt to my bell housing.  To use the 1940 R7, I would have to change the steering column and use a column shift and at that point the R10 would probably be more practical.  If you are considering selling the unit, I am definitely interested in purchasing.   Shipping will be expensive, however willing to pay.  If you consider selling, kindly forward photos and your price.

    Regards,

    Richard Cope

    39 Pine Valley Rd.

    Jackson, N.J. 08527

    cope.r@att.net

    732-600-1997

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. Richard Cope

      Richard Cope

      Did you change the rear, or just the gears?  My 39 has a 4.11 rear and at 55 mph the engine and gears are tight, however with the Mitchels overdrive, at 65 mph runs comfortably and is only around 2200 rmp.  Unfortunately having vibrations issues that start around 50.  Recently found a small business that used to build street rods, now working with antiques.  They seem to feel that they can correct.  When the weather cools down will be taking the car to them, keeping fingers crossed.  With a unit from a De Soto, would only have one driveshaft 

    3. dpollo

      dpollo

      I used a 50 rear end.  Gear sets can be swapped 37 to 56  and without any mods at all, 37 to 52.

       

      you will find 3.7  and 3,73 ratios in many post war Desotos with Fluid Drive.

    4. Richard Cope

      Richard Cope

      Thanks for info

  13. I used an epoxy paste (PC-11) twenty years ago on a wheel, has held up great. It is two parts A & B, the one I used was in two small separate cans and is now sold on Amazon. At that time, the marine grade was not available. Then painted with a liquor paint and clear coated.
  14. Your wheel doesn't require the type of work that I recently had done, just showing what's possible, I believe Eastwood sells a repair kit with a two part epxy. I had been looking for some time for a banjo steering wheel for 39 Ply. Located a parts car with the correct wheel, stainless was in great shape however the coating was beyond repair. Purchased the wheel / column & miscellaneous parts for a fair price. Sent the wheel to D&D Automobilia, which has a mold for the 39 wheel and he recast the plastic. Took almost a year however came back like a new wheel, see photo. yea it was pricy. Where I live now, can't spray paint, went through a lot of color samples from Prismatic Powders and found that "Bent Brown" (PSB 5986) matches the original color exceptionally well for the steering column, emergency brake and mirror, etc. I purchased the powder and a local shop has been powder coating the above parts. It would be difficult to spray paint these small parts and have them come out as durable and uniform appearance as powder coating. This fall when it cools down will change the wheel / steering column, etc. I have some extra small parts that have been coated, if anyone is interested? Have been trying to locate a horn ring, unfortunately it seems that the 39 Ply. had it's own design. Does anyone know of any interchangeable part numbers, I haven't been able to locate any. Regards
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