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Richard Cope

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  • Occupation
    Quality Engineer / Retired

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Jackson, N.J.
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth Business Coupe


  • Location
    New jersey
  • Interests
    Car was restored stock several years ago. Want to modernize lights , brakes for safety and up date

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  1. 1939 Plymouth owners may want to check out the following video on UTube " The birth of a new car 1939 Plymouth assembly line XD14774" with audio
  2. I found a company that can convert the film to a digital format. It is ScanCafe (866-234-3909), 7998 Centerpoint Drive, Suite 600, Indianapolis, In. 46256. As I understand it takes a few weeks, and they charge by the foot and what type of media want it stored on.
  3. Hi Mark, I have been traveling and on my cell phone don't get the full form screen, didn't see alerts for messages. However returned today and can't find any messages from you, kindly send again. I have heard there was a small shop near me that used to transfer film, going to go this week to see if they are still in business. Hopefully will be able to transfer the film to flash sticks. Regards Richard
  4. Purchased an advertising film strip for a 1939 Plymouth. Looks to be in good shape, is around 34 mm in width and rolled in a small original metal container. Looking to get it converted to a modern media, if I can't get it done locally does anyone know of a shop that does these conversions? Also does anyone know if these film strips included sound? Regards, Richard
  5. Thanks for the tip Loren, will give it a try. Have two injector plates, will be using one and a friend using the other. Width of plates are .25 in. injector holes are very small, was going to measure however have wires in center of holes, Either plate should work, however one has a smaller circumference where the line from the bottle connects, this may help with clearance. Going to have to use longer studs to compensate for the plate. The top has a regulating valve / or can be used to shut off. Thinking of using a small flow, with perhaps every other tank of gas. My heater has two mounting bolts that come through the firewall enough that a plate can be added, will mount the jar on that plate.
  6. If I had the space, would be tempting to get a price. Looks like it is mostly there, with a lot of surface rust. The frames of the 39 convertibles were unique, with a second frame bolted on top of the main frame under the passenger area.
  7. Hi Polsonator2, Appreciate if you could post a photo of your injector plate with the carburetor, want to ensure that I have the correct plate. Suspect that I am getting or have gotten gasoline with excess ethanol. The summer that was getting tapping from the valves, also went through three mechanical fuel pumps. All of the pumps were suppose to be alcohol resistant, however when disassembled the diaphragms were sticky & gummy. Tried different gas stations and neutralizers however didn't know if it works until too late and AAA is bringing car back. Switched to an electric fuel pump and that issue solved.
  8. I'm not affiliated in any way with either Ampco or MMO or promoting their products. I seen where probably 40 to 50 year old NOS Ampco lubricating units were being sold and thought would pass on. I mentioned my positive experience by adding MMO in the gas tank, however this was my personal experience and not intended to promote the product. Perhaps others have had negative experiences. The ethanol gasoline we are using may be different along with the selected motor oils. Based on everyone's own experiences either add or don't add additives, use or don't use a lubricator, I recommend use what works best in your particular car. There are enough products on the market and custom blends that one shoe doesn't have to fit all.
  9. Couple of weeks ago went to a cruise night, granted the entrance to the parking area was on a slope and as I turned in the car was coasting with the engine idling. Most of the cars at the show were muscle or street rods. Later when I opened the hood, several individuals came over, they said that they expected to see that it had been converted to electric as they didn't hear the engine when I turned in. The engine idles quiet, if I get too much MMO in the gas tank will get a puff of smoke when I pull out
  10. I purchased one & received it today, It is NOS, enclosed paperwork is yellow with age. The container is glass unlike the one in the photo. When get an opportunity will install and test out. Last year started getting a slight valve ping, a theory was that the ethanol gasoline was cleaning the lubricant from the valve guides. Added a few ounces of MMO in the gas tank and the ping stopped shortly after & hasn't came back. Have been occasionally adding a few ounces of MMO since. The engine has about 6,500 miles since a rebuild done around 20 years ago, have been using 30 wt HD oil. The unit has a control valve, will see how low can adjust the flow to. If it adds too much will shut it off and continue occasionally add to the gas tank. Will be a conversation piece.
  11. Hi MajD Welcome to the forum, nice to hear of another 39 Ply., like to see photos. I also have a 39 Ply. P8, believe the drums were black but can't be sure. They aren't going to be visible when the wheels are on. Originally put a lot of effort in trying to keep mine as close to stock as possible, color of steering column, nickel plating interior parts, upholstery, window glass date coding, etc. Later made some modifications that can be reversed for safety and reliability. As your restoration progresses and you have questions keep in touch. Richard Cope
  12. For those that use Marvel Mystery Oil in their gasoline, came across new old stock lubricators that are being sold by Ampco, see attached. Was told that they are from the 50's era. The injector plates are listed by year / manufacturer and sell for and additional $25 or so. I use MMO in my 39 occasionally, seems to run quieter, considering installing one of the lubricators.
  13. Anyone using Evans Waterless? My engine was rebuilt 20 plus years ago and that is the only antifreeze that has been used. It is pricy however didn't change it until recently when the radiator was changed (was starting to get hairline cracks), at that time sent a sample to Evans and they did a chemical assay and indicated that it was still good. Eliminates the concern of rust (was particularly concerned with the distribution tube). It has a high boiling point so don't get boil overs. Looked inside the head when changing the radiator, looked like the day it was assembled. Don't have a baseline to compare the engine temp to, however Evans indicates this it normal for it to run a little hotter as more heat is being removed. Works good for me. Richard
  14. Hi Chris, I have a 39 Ply, last summer the honey comb radiator started leaking. Took the radiator to Custom Auto Radiator, Lacey, N.J. (609-242-9700). The shop specializes is brass radiators. They disassembled, used the original top, bottom and sides & made up a new more efficient brass core. The top was originally painted, shop ask if I wanted it polished for a nominal fee. I was very satisfied with the constructions / soldering and the polishing was more than expected. The new core isn't honeycomb. While it was apart, I had another shop powder coat the side braces, however believe Custom Auto Radiator can also do. On the bottom, added a fitting so a temperature probe could be added. When I had the radiator off, added a pusher fan which also purchased from the shop. The fan isn't noticeable unless one looks through the grill, or can hear the motor running. Don't plan on using the fan all of the time, however on those summer days when the temp is in the high 90's and stuck in traffic takes some stress away. If you would like to see photo, let me know. Richard
  15. Thank everyone for your help, problem solved. Turned out to be the new 12 volt horn that was using to test before putting the 6 volts back on. The horn worked most of the time and would then stop for no obvious reason. Mounted the original 6 volt horns with a 12 volt relay, works good but as everyone mentioned very loud. End up disconnecting one horn, to quite it down a little. Unfortunately the trumpet horns don't have the same sound with 12 volts. Have an idea like to get comments on. When starting this project I purchased a voltage reducer from Vintage Auto (HR02) which is intended for heater blower motors - 100 watts. End up putting a new 12 v motor in the heater and didn't use. If the reducer was mounted under the horn bracket & connected to a 6 volt horn relay with the two 6 v trumpet horns, think it may bring them back towards the original sound? Attaching some photos of my 12 volt conversion, still have a few small parts to reattach. Generator is about 1/8 in longer, voltage regulator is a little larger. The aluminum cylinder near the steering column is a remote fill for the master cylinder. Panel box is mounted behind the front seat and normally covered with a tarp. The front load panel seemed to be more flexible than a prewired. Added a crash relay, battery monitor / charger is to the right. Once again than everyone for your comments, Regards Richard
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