Los_Control

I actually thought about that .... think I am just keeping the video's handy in case something goes sideways. The court house is on this very street just a few blocks down the road, and the police station sits behind the courthouse. Those times he is doing multiple passes, police could be here in 45 seconds or less ... if they are not interested so be it. This is not the first so called race car he has had, then a few weeks ago he came home with a Harley sportser then that disappeared and this truck showed up .... the truck does have a shoe polish 4 sale sign on the back window. Maybe it will be gone soon. Kid had a pretty decent job and a company work truck, then the virus hit and work truck sat in his driveway for a month and it went away ... I assume his job did to. I get frustrated with youngsters, I wish him no harm.

Been dealing with a neighbor for some time ... putting up with it. He is a young kid, the type that puts his dog on a chain in the back of the truck bed and parks in the sun ... when the dog jumps out and chokes itself on the short chain ... 3 different neighbors ran out to save the dog. Then again, while he has a fenced backyard, he lets the dog run free ... The dog comes over to the other neighbors house and drags garbage all over the hood. The guy is a menace in the grocery store, puts his young boy in the shopping cart and runs full speed up and down the meat isle. Making var000m var000m noises. Boy just does not have the brains he was born with, imho. I just been avoiding him after he tried to hang his dog. Now he has possession of a truck that belongs on a dragstrip ... am I just a grumpy old man that does not like hotrods? Here is a mild video of what he did today, yesterday he tried to see how big of a burnout could do, came out with a tape measure this morning to measure the black marks his Hoosier slicks left on the road. ... truck been quiet for awhile, as I write this is getting dusk and he fired it back up again. And again it sounds like a drag strip in front of my house. Am I just a grumpy old man? or should I embrace this kid for being a hot rodder? open it up for opinions

Funny story about head bolts. At one time I was active in a Ford Explorer forum because I owned one. One of the forum members was a local community collage shop teacher, bought a all wheel drive explorer from a wrecking yard that needed a new wiring harness. Used it for teaching class. In the end they took it to the 1/4 mile race track for a couple years. Kept adding more horse power and bigger turbos .... rebuilding transmissions, Actually a pretty cheap cool car, with AWD, that thing would hook and go, While the car in the next lane was doing wheelies and burn outs and trying to get off the line, the explorer was 1/2 way down the track. At one point, He was losing a couple of quarts coolant racing the 1/4 mile and tried everything with new head gaskets new oem head bolts this went on for a few months. He finally realized because he did drive the car on the street to school and the track, was only when racing, the head bolts were stretching and the heads were lifting during the 1/4 mile race. He bit the bullet and bought high dollar head bolts for it, cured the issue. While some may think it stupid, was just a hrrr'm moment for me thinking about the limits of head bolts.

I agree, we are always told to re torque but they always say after you run it for x amount of time and then again after x amount of miles. Because of the temperature we run these engines ... 180 T-stat? I imagine the cylinders and head reach higher temps, exhaust manifold is several hundred degrees. but block is surrounded by a cooling system at 180 degrees it does not get too hot? I cook my dinner at 350 degrees, 180 is pretty cool. When you shut off the engine, cooling system stops working and we get heat soak, temp gauge rises ... When that goes back down in just a few minutes. In my mind any expansion / contraction is over. A busy mechanic may just as soon as it is cool enough to actually get the socket on it and get er did, push it out the door and get to the next job. Since I am not a mechanic, I have time for it to cool down and be comfortable to work on. Between the heat cycles and the compression of the engine, you get it up to temp for some time. There is aprox 120 psi compression on 2 cylinders at every firing stroke. Those head bolts really take a lot of abuse.

I would think, since metal expands when heated, when cooled is optimal time. After a few times, at least 3 times if head was off ... should be no more movement. Twice probably gets it done, and 3 times is to be sure ... never hurts to do it 4 times though. I agree with this also, if after re-tourquing the head is a small dribble, give it time.

Is the engine overheating? A properly working cooling system and a 180 degree T-stat it should run at 180 degrees. No idea what temp your T stat is. If you are having a over heating issue, checking the T-stat is one of the first things to check ... I put them in a pan of water and as long as the T-stat opens before the water boils .... I assume it is working.

When I first got started in construction, as a grunt labor, moving sprinklers around on fresh concrete was one of my jobs. Let it setup over night, then water it for a few days to cool and slow down the drying process. Less chances for cracks etc... in the driveway of your new 500 thousand dollar house you just bought.

Years ago we would buy terracotta tiles from Mexico, they were hand made and then laid out in the sun to bake. Then a stray dog would wander across them and leave prints. They became very popular. Today, when you order x amount of tile, you have to open the boxes and separate the ones with paw prints. then lay them in some sort of path that makes sense. Just became so popular and a demand for the tiles with paw prints, today I think they have a hand stamp and randomly add them. I think it adds character and a lived in effect.

Maybe go get a new kitten, is the season and let it run across the pad? This lil girl we got yesterday, today she is figuring out the doggy door.

I am going to have to kindly disagree here. A transmission jack is very good and a requirement for a busy shop. For the individual working at home, a transmission jack imho is a luxury. We just need to be creative ... I have seen some tranny jacks that were a total joke and felt sorry for the owner. My old 1960 sweptline I wrapped a chain over the cab and through the windows, and then a come along from the chain to raise the old heavy 4 speed, was pretty uneventful clutch repair. Since it was a truck to haul garbage with, I did not protect the paint, pretty sure it never scratched the paint. With my 1987 Ford 3/4 ton work van, I swapped the C6 trans out with a floor jack. I admit it took a couple hours in the dirt. I laied a piece of plywood down for the jack to roll on. Then I strapped a piece of plywood on top of the jack for the trans to sit on. I could then raise and lower it and move it back and forth, then I spent a hour setting the transmission on the plywood at just the right angle, using blocks of wood and when I finally got it where I wanted it, I just rolled the jack forward and stabbed it to the engine. Easy peasy. Now if I hired a mechanic at $100 per hour and he was doing what I was doing, I would fire him on the spot. But if working at home, main #1 thing is to think about safety. But creativity is useful. A transmission jack is never going to be on my bucket list of tools, while anytime I look on facebook and see patience for sale, I will grab all I can get.

That would be the easy and simple way to go. Just fix what ya got. When I bought this house, my original plan was to do exactly what PA is doing now. Pour a slab on the backside of the garage and a carport over it, a man door through the wall. Tools in the shop and easy access to the work area. Main problem is the alley is so narrow, with my 12" gate I can get my truck in the back yard, I could not get a car trailer into it. Is on the west side and hotter then Hades in the summer time ... several reasons why I do not want to do this now. After living here. Same time I all ready have the carport in front, easy access, shady in the afternoon is all ready a dedicated work area ... When I said "pour a footing" what I really meant was pour a foundation. Attach it to existing garage foundation, stick build a wall on top and add a couple windows, move the roll up garage door forward and re-use it, add a man door in the corner exits near the front door of house. Existing garage is 10'x22' carport is 12'x24' The only downside I see, is a 45' garage on the side of my little house. For a car guy that might not look to bad. 10'x22' I am really out of room and need to stretch out.

Molasses is a good rust remover, never heard of it being used in cylinder walls. You say you have rust in "one" cylinder ... this may require more investigation. Removing the head would not be a terrible waste of time, as mentioned above you also could have stuck valves. Very common on these old flatheads, and a simple fix if the head is off. Your comment though "rust in one cylinder" causes a eyebrow to raise. Do you all ready have the head off? How do you know? How did the moisture get in there? I have heard 1000 times that 50/50 atf/acetone is the best to use in a situation like this. All that being said, curious what molasses/water would do. I tried it one time at my Uncles house. I had a 20 gallon bucket I filled and used to de-rust things. I had my heater in it, doors were rusted closed. 2 weeks later I pulled it out and it was like brand new. Hose it off and paint it, like new today ... except where the pits are from severe rust. I kinda doubt it will penetrate though ... would clean everything it can reach and maybe that would be enough? You're really thinking outside of the box here Grandpa had a old plymouth suburban, he drove the wheels off of that car. Last time he drove it in 1961, He wound her out so tight he spun a bearing and continued to drive it to get home, ended up locking up the motor. I gave it away a couple years ago, I told the guy the story so he does not waste his time trying to unstick the motor. Sometimes we get lucky on these old engines, but not all the time.

Thanks again for the tip, I will investigate it and learn. I am very comfortable soldering wire connections and in my plumber days soldered miles of copper plumbing .... "silver soldering" is a term I have heard but know nothing about.

You trying to give me a heart attack? My wallet is clamped down so tight I did not want to spring for the bottle of gas for mig welding ... Tig setup for my welder is another $550+ Los does his best Sanford and son impression .... Look out it's the big one! I will mark tig as best answer. Sadly to get to this item in the future for adjustment or work ... pull the hood, radiator and be a contortionist to reach it ... I want to make sure it is solid the first time. And that would mean find a good welder that can do it ...

Yes sir you are correct, I had it exactly backwards. I had to look it up ... I was thinking those old lincoln 225 arc welders were DC and modern migs were AC, exactly opposite.

Not sure why I think I can solder it ... thinking lower heat I guess? Proper fix would be to take it to someone that is experienced welding SS. The fasteners were all corroded and instantly twisted off when removing. Leaving 3 round mounting holes like this. I just do not want to make it worse then it is. Will probably end up using a small SS screw with a nut and call it a day. My original thought was to use a SS flat head screw behind it, plug weld it with solder, then build it up on the inside with solder ...just doubt would be strong enough.

Ok I think I now understand, maybe I got lucky as it all is where it needs to be, this is just a one long bolt in the middle it is hanging on, it will line up and bolt on fine. Is the rear of the fender where all the real damage is. So I welded the middle first, so rigid enough to work on rear. sure would .... think my plan for today is to make a cardboard template from the bed. cut the radius out of 16 gage ... somehow stick the two pieces together. First thing is to fix the outside fender radius. Get that shape correct and will raise the inner side of fender closer to where it needs to be. And I always have the other fender to look at for inspiration

One of those issues, I just love my city and their inspectors. They will come out and discuss what you want/need and not actually charge you for a inspection fee. If you are building a new house, yes there will be paid inspections along the way. If you are working on the garage or a remodel, they will come out payment free and offer advice ... they just want you to do a good job. I LOVE TEXAS!

I think I know what you are saying ... same time the lip where it bolts on, needs to be replaced, no way to get correct radius until they are replaced. No way to get the radius until the sides are welded together, to get a look at it ... still needs hammering and welding ... but is a start. @kencombs I am interested in anything you have to say. I suspect. If I get the lip and rear of the fender where it should be, will probably cut out a section and replace my crappy welds and work. I am only suggesting, I have nothing but trash and trying to bring it back to a usable item.

I should call my brother and see where he is at with inspections. He lives in the PNW and south of Seattle and building his retirement home. Last I heard they would not come out to inspect the work done. And he is at the insulation inspection, last inspection before drywall, paint, finish carpenter and plumber. Only inspection after that is the final for certificate of occupancy. .... then this is Washington state ... I wonder if they did come out.

I actually have a couple, But still learning, I say yours have the "Duck bill" Mine do not .... I bought the wrong ones but they still work. I have this silly buck, This plywood was the original seat when I bought the truck. I used the other end for something else. Just saying, a professional would make a real buck with correct radius and width ... I am using the scrap in my pile. I honestly think, if I can get it close and then mount it on the truck, I can then hammer and dolly it closer to what it needs. If you look at the top left, then follow down diagonally to the right, That is where the metal is stretched ... I am thinking I need to fix everything else first, then fix that section ... I could be wrong.

Awesome score! I posted earlier about ... lettuce is popping out of the ground today. I waited for the tomatoes to get going, then planted lettuce under them ... hoping the shade will keep them going longer in the hot weather. Just trim the lower 12" of the tomatoes and trim the lettuce as it grows?

In my original post I mentioned my end goal was to lay down weed fabric, build a small deck, 8x10? then put the boxes in a horse shoe shape on the deck. Here is a photo of what someone else did. I have a similar idea. Mine I will need to step up onto the deck, wire will go to the top of the boxes and trellis above, one end will have a small work table with shelf underneath for supplies. I will run water underground to it, and then have it on drip irrigation. More effort now to build it, but later is as low maintenance as you can get. Right now I need to figure out where I want to set it in the yard. Will be interesting my first year growing a garden in this area, I will see what I can get by with in the hot weather, but looking forward to fall. You build a top kinda like this on 1 box, open it on warm days and close it at night, in our location it is possible to have a fresh green salad year around. Lettuce, spinach, radishes, onions etc... December, throw your steak on the grill and walk out and harvest a fresh salad.

Yes you will be fine, as long as it was already converted ... or you will need to convert, not a hard job, just a job

Original is positive ground, so need to do some adjustments to your wiring to make it work.