Los_Control

When I was working, I used Mirka sandpaper. When first training as a finish carpenter, that's what my employer provided. And best I have used to date. Surprisingly harbor freight carried the mirka paper and one of the few items I would buy from there ... I am guessing 3M has different levels of quality. I am stuck buying it from Ace hardware, I thought it sucked and found some better paper at walmart, still garbage though. Couple weeks ago I bought a pack of 3m from Ace, this actually feels like better quality then what I bought in the past, not used it a lot yet for opinion. You can feel the flexibility and quality of the paper backing, more like what mirka is like. Either way, I need to order paper online, buying 5 pieces for $10 just not good, I need quantities of a box of 50 for different grits ... and because I know mirka thats what will stick with.

Seems like some cars had that option. but not on a truck. you are lucky if you have a defroster option. But you do have the cowl vent that brings in fresh air.

I swear cars have personalities. I have to start my 49 dodge and move it tomorrow, to bring in the wife car Lady Belle. 2 weeks ago my off topic truck was giving starter issues, Last Saturday wife drove to New Mexico and made it home Tuesday with zero issues ... now the starter is dead in the driveway. I love this car that she got my wife home, then broke down. I swear it is like children, you buy one a pair of shoes and the other wants a new pair of shoes also. I have some starting and stopping for the 49 dodge in the near future.

yeah maybe you should ... they have a mounting bracket with bolts and holds it where they need to be.

I think you only need the knockouts that match your heater ... they were all a option and installed at the dealer or as aftermarket. So they supplied plenty of knockouts for options. I have never seen someone remove the knockout circled in black for a heater. Possibly a specific heater required that hole? After a few years around these trucks, never seen one removed.

Going to send you a pm, I propose I am a poor test subject. I will pay you what it cost to make and shipping and test it what little I can. I imagine any input would be better then none and the more sources for input the better? I keep my truck in some kind of running driving state so I can move it and work on other vehicles. soon will need to install the radiator and test for leaks make sure the new T-stat keeps correct temp when idle for 2 hours. ... with my doghouse off, is very easy to get to the distributor to work on if needed.

While I complain the loudest, I would be poor test subject. I only start and move my truck in the driveway at this time, you need someone to drive and test them.

I have a airtex model here, 5H1007 measures 1-1/8" long and 5/8" diameter.

I have a issue with jumping spiders ... If one drops down while conversing with the neighbor ... kill it ... kill it ... and I am like, nah it is fine, will talk to it like a pet and send it on it's way. Little spider does a good job helping me control insects in my area. Just seems once a spider figures out you do not want to hurt it ... it tends to get sociable and drop in in front of you to say hello.

Some of us drive old mopars and not smart enough to figure that out Been a big issue for years, if someone could create a way to bypass the issue ... I think we call that the American way.

I think people are ready. In my example above on condensers, I would bet just about all the vendors like dcm, bernbaum etc would add them to their line at a higher cost. Yesterday in the Ford barn the subject came up again, guy went through 5 new condensers to find 1 that worked, he caries a known good spare mounted on the coil ready to be wired if needed and another in the glove box. People would gladly pay for a known quality product. If I ask 10 people I know, I bet 5 or more are sleeping with a my pillow. They are willing to pay a few dollars more for a better product. I love mine and will replace with same when needed. I guess what I really mean here, It depends on what happens in November. We in USA could be on the verge of a new industrial revolution. Just bringing steel manufacturing back to USA, these are billion dollar plants that are going to require heavy maintenance. Equipment will break, they will want local suppliers for parts immediately. Not wait for parts sent from over seas. Bringing pharmaceutical makers back to USA, Kodak of all people ... These companies will have special needs for local supplies. With the changes to bring auto manufacturing back to USA, they will have special needs. Perfect opportunity for some person with ambition. With USA putting tariffs on China, Companies are moving out and going to other places, we complain now about getting poor quality parts, soon we may not be able to even get them. Already supply chain has been affected. 1 year from now we may not be able to buy a condenser from over seas, at any price you would be the cheapest. I think this all effects Canada also, I just feel there is a opportunity opening up for those who might take advantage of it.

Sounds awesome ... I remember a few older cars where it took forever to go from full to 1/2 tank, then the gauge would drop like a rock from there. Love the car. I bought my wife a older 70's Camaro years ago, was a 6 cyl 3 speed floor shift. Father built it for his daughter to drive in high school, was a nice car. I liked it because it was a 6 cyl, I knew the car was not beat on to hard and really was in good shape.

May be a good time to start making products in USA again .... How about condensers for our old cars. What would it take to setup a shop just to make a good quality condenser? I really have no idea whats involved in making one. Start with a single condenser for old mopars and make them good. I bet you would be selling them for a profit all over the world. Of course the same condenser will work on several other model vehicles ... later when prepared add more tooling and another model condenser. Widen the market. For the right person, might be a good way to spend some time. Look at the my pillow guy ... pick one item and make it the best. If someone had a ambitious son or grandson that was full of energy and wanted to get involved, You could easily expand into a product with more demand. With todays administration deregulating and changing tax laws, encouraging to bring back manufacturing, Today may be a good time to jump in.

Is this also true with a B1C? just saying project cars in handle shows B1C and thread says B1B ?

This is why the 3:88 gears have been hidden from dodges .... We get the 3:73's .... but oh noes no 3:88 for us

Were these words even event'ed when the flat 6 was popular? Los runs back to his corner

Anyways he has a beautiful B1C that needs rear brake drums and top speed is 45 mph ... He really needs some good advice besides my dribble. But his MSN e-mail I know nothing about and I suspect is the problem here. I have nothing to offer him but get a new email addy. maybe someone else run into this?

Doug reports that he cant send a message to info@p15-d24.com Is this correct email addy? Something seems strange here ... I am going to send a test message to addy just to see if it works for me. So I got no error sending the email to you, and he has same address I sent it to .... something is just not playing nice together here. You cant mail him and he cant mail you.

Talking with them now on FB messenger and they are trying to correct the issue.

Some of us have stumps in our lives ....

Interesting video. My truck idles cool with original honeycomb. I did flush it both ways and seems to be clear. Sadly it has about 5 holes in the tubes, just drips at idle, goose the throttle and get a shower I bought a aluminum radiator I plan to paint black but not installed it yet.

In a off topic thread I had a similar issue with a small block chevy and daily driver truck. The consensus was, no click and when turning the key the dash gauges / lights did not dim. If the solenoid or starter was bad, you would get the click and the dash lights would dim with the power draw. You do not get that, seems like a bad wire or cable or something else ... my case above I think is ignition switch going bad. Story time ... I once had a 1987 Bronco with a pretty healthy engine, headers, cam, high rise 4 barrel. new to me I just bought it. I took it on a road trip across state, I pulled into a gas station Sunday afternoon and it would not start again. Kind people offered help and a jump, I got nothing. I slept in the Bronco that night, Monday morning I walked a mile & took my starter to the auto parts store and bought a new one. Put it in and exact same issue ... nothing. Long story short, The cable from the ford solenoid to the starter was bad ... even though it looked fine. Some smart gentleman saw my dilemma, and worked with me. We figured out, I could use my jumper cables from my solenoid to the starter, and it would start ... the cable was bad. I had to do that trick a couple of times while I got to my destination, then replaced it before going back home ... but visually, I was looking at the old cable for the issue when I had it removed ... it looked perfect. But for some reason the cable would not carry the current needed to operate the starter. Go with your gut feeling, you have wires that look questionable, change them ... you have some you have no history on, might not hurt to change them also.

I have to admit, with electric start mine just turns a 1/2 revolution and fires up. Really not a stretch if someone has engine in good tune, it would start right up with a crank. Now if your engine needs to turn over for 5 min and eventually start ... you have other issues. These engines will start fine with a hand crank. If in proper tune.

I will give a vote for ospho, can get it at ace hardware and pretty reasonably priced. Been around since 1947. Brush it on or spray with a squirt bottle for hard to reach areas. It turns the rust into a black primer that can be painted. Or just left as is. Otherwise, if you want to stick with something specifically for automotive restoration and the absolute very best, I would check out Eastwood products. They have a few different levels of quality for different prices. Same time, Ace hardware sells a rust converter in a rattle can I have no xp with them and personally would stay away from no name brands.