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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. I made a new drag link with replaceable tie rod ends, and now it is adjustable to center the steering wheel.
  2. I got out 20+ years ago and pretty sure I'll be able to see the splash from here.
  3. I have a dual carb Fenton manifold that looks like it had a coolant jacket and someone modified it. As far as ambient heat from the exhaust manifold there is no lack of that. What sort of linkage are you running?
  4. So are you running it without the coolant flowing through the manifold?
  5. I would be interested if this works as I was considering changing the column shift in my B4B to a floor shift. Post some photos!
  6. Here is another jeep resource in Tucson, good guy to deal with. https://www.willysworks.com/
  7. The colors and technique you used lend a sort of barnwood look to the pieces. I do wood graining in my work but it is done on mostly flat objects ( doors, molding ) and the tools used would not work well on compound curves. Here is a resource that has the tools to do automotive trim. Good luck! http://woodgraining.com/
  8. If the coil has a ballast resistor attached to it, that would drop the voltage.
  9. Here is a link to build an IC voltage regulator. You don't need the capacitors or heat sink. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-a-voltage-regulator-for-3.448038/ This is the integrated circuit I used.
  10. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/PartsCarter.htm Fernando, here is a source for parts. I don't think the jets I have are correct because when they were on my truck(218) it always ran rich.
  11. Hey HRT, after doing some research online and tearing into my carbs the part number/ jet sizes are on the jets and the hole size is in the info you posted here. I'm looking for a 256 main jet and 149-41s step-up jet. I have a 317 main jet and 149-56s step-up jet for the E7T1/E7T2 carbs if anybody needs them.
  12. There is a salvage yard here in Tucson that is exclusively power wagons with a few pilot house trucks thrown in, Jacks govt truck salvage. Nice guy, a little tough to deal with and generally won't sell parts but likes to sell the whole vehicle.
  13. If you can make an off brand tank work, go for it. I know several different ones have been used and mounted in places other than the original location. Here is another option. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=508/category_id=100/mode=prod/prd508.htm
  14. Bill, use MasterSeal NP 150 black, it sticks to all surfaces and remains flexible. First off make sure your pinch weld is smooth with no snags as it will cut up the rubber during install and you can use soapy water or WD40 as a lube. Install the glass first and then use the sealant. The masking tape works fine and some mineral spirits will clean off any excess sealant.
  15. My bracket needed to be modified to get the radiator to within 1" of the fan on the L6.
  16. That definitely looks bent.
  17. Mine will act the same way until it is up to operating temp.
  18. On the front you could remove the second to the shortest leaf and reverse the spring eyes to drop maybe 2" or so.
  19. I bought new front springs for my B4B from these guys. http://stores.ebay.com/mcveighs-truck-springs My truck also had a slight lean before but with the fuel tank and battery on the same side as the driver that was understandable.
  20. Here is a link on the hamb with similar issues. Post #41 is interesting. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tom-langdon-dual-carb-first-run-issues.1072476/page-2
  21. Maybe the clutch or brake pedals rubbing the floor board?
  22. http://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1950&make=dodge&model=b-series&style=2-door-chassis-and-windshield
  23. Jeff, which unit are you using from eBay?
  24. If an old phone is used do you need to pay for some sort of service to use it as a gps? I am behind the curve on the whole cell phone trend.
  25. Like the fuel is not even exiting the pump. Perhaps the fuel is exiting the pump.....into the crankcase?
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