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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. A common swap is an 8.25 rear from a jeep Cherokee. I put a 3.55 out of a '93 with drum brakes on mine, weld on new spring plates and was good to go. The drive shaft even bolted right up with no mods. The new axle is about 1.5" narrower than stock.
  2. How about some photos.
  3. Check with these people. http://www.woodgraining.com/
  4. Do you have ethanol in your fuel in Brazil? Perhaps some of the liquid in the oil pan was fuel.
  5. Even with poor compression it may improve once you get it running and the valves loosen up and the rings settle in. Mine had been sitting for 25 years and seems to be going strong with 62k original miles.
  6. I used some fender welting like this. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Fender-Welting-Body-Gasket,1221.html?sku=75134601&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIve3OjITM2AIVRpV-Ch05YQYkEAQYAyABEgLsO_D_BwE
  7. These people can help you and I believe they are members here. http://www.woodgraining.com/
  8. 1shot bright red or fire red.
  9. Mine runs the same but it seems the more I drive it the better it's getting, perhaps the oil passages are getting cleaned out. The pressure drops to 10 or 15 at idle now. I don't have any noise with the low pressure and think these motors are happy with what little oil they get. Original engine with 61k
  10. Instead of follow the yellow brick road they rode the yellow brick!
  11. Run the shorter jeep shackle and flip it. Easy
  12. I'm not sure about the cars but on the trucks the contact switch on top of the starter is adjustable by screwing it in or out to cause the pinion to engage at the right time. There is a procedure outline in the service manual.
  13. The first thing I would check is the fuel filter. It could be partially blocked allowing some fuel through but not enough for high fuel consumption. Cheap and easy.
  14. @The Oil Soup I did search for your thread, couldn't find it How about a link or info on what your using, the bracket and where you acquired the pieces The truck air cleaner simply clamps to the carburetor and I gutted the oil bath cleaner and installed a micro guard air filter MGA3902
  15. I'm using the oil bath housing with a pleated element concealed within.
  16. Does the B-2-C not use a door seal along the outer edge of the floor?
  17. Rufus is one good looking red truck and maybe he will get a new front bumper for Xmas.
  18. The difference between the 218/230 is the crank and connecting rods. I was pointing out the block may well be original to the truck and the head was changed for some reason. There is a milled area on the passenger side of the block above the generator below the head that should have the numbers you need. Here is a link to decode the numbers. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html
  19. The head could have been changed at some point.
  20. On the side of the block below the distributor near the oil pan and on top of the head behind the distributor.
  21. The year it was made should be cast into the head and block dd/mm/yy. You can measure the stroke through the access hole over the #6 piston.
  22. I bought a radiator from Champion (cc4749) off of eBay . It is for a 47-49 Plymouth but it has the correct dimensions to fit my '53 half ton. Seems to work fine, no temp problems was right at $200. I did have to cut off the downward angled piece on the top fitting and fab some new mounts. Here is a link to look through their specs. Good luck! http://www.championradiators.com/Champion-Radiators
  23. I had mine do that after I switched from 6 to 12 volt. It was a bad bendix drive that worked fine for a while and then jammed in the engaged position. Replaced it and now it's good.
  24. What is the model number of your carb?
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