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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. They unscrew.
  2. I thought it was around 3200lbs.
  3. I used the Steele gasket, pricey but seems to work well (4 or 5 years) and fits correctly. Also file the pinch weld to remove any snags that can damage the gasket during installation. Most gaskets require some sealant to complete the job.
  4. Get a Ford or Chevy.
  5. This stuff looks easier.
  6. There are two adjustments on the dizzy, one where it bolts to the block and another on the underside of the dizzy to confound twenty first century mechanics. Pics of the coupe?
  7. The MC johnsartain referenced with the yellow cap is correct. I pulled the proportioning valve off the junkyard donor and it mounts under the MC but everything is kinda tight. I have disc on front as the donor did also. Will post photo soon.
  8. Sid's 3'' dropped axle, Rusty Hope disc brakes reversed spring eyes removed 2nd to shortest leaf up front. Rear; Jeep shackle flipped, removed 2nd and 3rd shortest leaves, raised forward rear spring mount and Cherokee 3:55. 28'' tire front 30'' tire rear, lower about 6'' from stock.
  9. How about a photo of the decal?
  10. Mine was the same as johnsartain and worked fine but I also ran all new brake line along with a Cherokee master cylinder.
  11. Here is a link to heater cores listed by size and I think the dimensions are strictly the core and not side tanks, but they do also list the inlet/ outlet sizes. I had to do some mods to make it work, but to have a custom made core was $100, so it was worth it. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heater-cores . Here is the blower motor I used, Oreillys has it listed as a Murray PM 354 for the same price. Good luck! https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/vdo,PM354,blower+motor,6916
  12. It sounds as if the problem was a poor ground from the engine back to the battery and the current was flowing through the coolant. There are plenty of dissimilar metals in vehicles that get along fine especially with the new coolants and proper wiring.
  13. For about $225 you can have a brand new aluminum radiator from Champion.
  14. I redid the heater that came with my truck replacing the core and the motor with parts from Oreillys. They both cost about $30 each and you can search the heater core sizes on the website and find one that works. The motor is 12 volt and is the same as the one Don C. shows in his rebuild and the core is aluminum.
  15. This be the stuff.
  16. There is also an adjustment under the float bowl connecting the accelerator pump to the throttle shaft. Mine stumbled like yours until I moved it to the longest throw and now it is happy. DTE1 carb on '53 truck may be different than yours.
  17. Mine acts the same when hot, once you go to restart it is overly rich because of fuel percolating in the carb. Simply floor it (don't pump it) hit the starter and she roars to life. And yeah, it sounds like you have an issue with your water temp. Could be the sword in the stone - WDT.
  18. You are definitely rockin' that 40s vibe! What's in the pipe?
  19. Here is a link to Monroe shock specs, find the right ends and the right length and you're ready to go! http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf
  20. Get the hacksaw out cut the down tube off and buy a rad hose ( Gates 20573 ) with a 90 degree bend and you're good to go.
  21. The JB weld is still holding and once it cured I put it in boiling water to check the accuracy and it's good.
  22. The '53 has the brake handle mounted under the dash with a cable from there to linkage on the trans and I simply ran a 1/4" steel rod from the trans back to the e-brake cable bracket. Might be a photo on here somewhere.
  23. If you mean the u-joint, yes it bolts right up to the Dodge drive shaft with no mods.
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