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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. The Oil Soup
    I did reverse the spring eyes myself. The last photo shows the drag link and pitman arm attachment. The space from the rubber bumper to the underside of the frame is about 1.5", I suppose I could trim off half an inch from the rubber but it doesn't really seem to bottom out. You will also need shorter shocks.
  2. The Oil Soup
    I do have the dropped axle from Sid's but I also reversed the spring eyes to lower it another 1"-1.5". Should be a link on here somewhere to do that. You have to reverse the spring eyes and remove the second shortest leaf to get the clearance you need.
  3. The Oil Soup
    The gauge should read fine with 12 or 6v. Mine is 12v with an integrated circuit to drop the voltage to 6v. Here is a how to link. You don't need to use the capacitors. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-a-voltage-regulator-for-3.448038/
  4. The Oil Soup
    Are you using a dropped axle from Sid's, that could be the difference. I did not bend the steering or pitman arms. The first photo is forward of the pass side wheel looking back, second rear of the pass side wheel and last from the pitman arm toward the pass side.
  5. The Oil Soup
    Here is a link to how the dash was done. Sadly a vanishing art. http://www.woodgraining.com
  6. The Oil Soup
    You can use a piece of Dom tubing with weld in bungs and lock nuts for the drag link. Also used the shorter jeep shackle, flipped it and raised the forward mount and removed the second shorter leaf to lower the rear axle about 6".
  7. The Oil Soup
    I will post photos if I can find them. What I did on the drag link was to drill the tapered hole from the underside of the steering arm about half way in, that way the drag link mounts in from the bottom and is parallel to the tie rod. No bump steer or interference with springs or oil pan. I also removed the second to the smallest leaf in the spring pack.
  8. The Oil Soup
    First thing on the new rad was to remove the downward pointing section of the top hose mount, next was to remove the side mounting brackets off the original rad and modify them to get the new rad within 1"-3/4" of the fan. The new hoses I used; upper Gates 20573, lower Dayco 70480 cut to fit. 23" 218
  9. The Oil Soup
    Ashes to ashes, rust to rust
  10. The Oil Soup
    I put a champion radiator in my B4B and it seems to work fine with some modification to the mounts. http://www.championradiators.com/search?searchwords=Cc4749&searchsmall_612033242=
  11. The Oil Soup
    The first thing I did was make a template of the fuel tank opening. This was to verify that the jeep sender would fit in the opening, with some filing of the sender that fits down in the tank it went in. Next I determined how long the arm needed to be to travel from full to empty. I think that was about 9". The sender is for a full size jeep '70-'79. "
  12. The Oil Soup
    The jeep unit was about $35. I had one of the units than ran $85 and worked for 20 minutes or so, and also saw on the forum how they dealt with someone who had problems with it (accusing them of over tightening the screw) so I opened it up and found the rheostat wire had unwrapped from around the terminal because it was not soldered. I will post photos later today. A length of stiff wire can be used to extend it, it is a single wire unit. The range on it is 78 to 10 ohms. It shows full fine not sure about empty. Haven't done the "carry a can of fuel in the truck until it runs out" yet.
  13. The Oil Soup
    I recently changed mine with a sender from a jeep Cherokee. I will post photos because it needed to be lengthened. It is obvious how long it needs to be once you know the distance the float must travel from full to empty.
  14. The Oil Soup
    My '53 was 6v and the starter works fine on 12v. Are you sure it is getting power?
  15. The Oil Soup
    Dorman can be a good source for brand new inexpensive steel wheels and the specs are available online also.
  16. The Oil Soup
    Definitely sits lower!
  17. The Oil Soup
    Oh look, here's one http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=shop+manual+1956+fargo&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xshop+manual+1956+dodge+truck.TRS0&_nkw=shop+manual+1956+dodge+truck&_sacat=0
  18. The Oil Soup
    Wheel bearing too tight/dragging?
  19. The Oil Soup
    This product in silver is affected by fuel but holds up well otherwise.
  20. The Oil Soup
    Here is a source for those bags. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xdesert+radiator+bag.TRS0&_nkw=desert+radiator+bag&_sacat=0
  21. The Oil Soup
    The patina and the yom plate is nice!
  22. The Oil Soup
    3M 90 spray adhesive available at HD. I think the foil backed bubble insulation will deteriorate over a short time. It is used for pool covers to heat the water and will burst if left in the sun w/o being cooled by the water. I used it to insulate the inside of my swamp cooler and after a season it was two layers of foil with shredded plastic in between.
  23. The Oil Soup
    Here is an excellent exchange on oil. Blues4u chimes in and really knows his stuff! My truck with 60k original miles runs the same pressures as described by the OP. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/zddp-again.1057854/
  24. The Oil Soup
    You need to disassemble the spring pack to determine if any of the leaves are cracked. That generally happens at or near the point they bolt together over the axle. Perhaps there is a broken leaf sandwiched within the others and it may function satisfactorily but the strength of the spring would be compromised. Your truck will actually sit higher with the new spring eye configuration.
  25. The Oil Soup
    Wow, that motor looks nice! Are you going to have to modify the sheet metal to fit that in? I sent you a PM, Gary
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