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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. The rear fender is not a ‘53.
  2. This might help, I think on mine the channel was glued on. https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-reproduction-window-glass-channel-run-clip-cc1561798
  3. I would look on eBay for the hood ornament.
  4. I had the same problem of fuel boiling in the carb once up to operating temp and difficulty starting after sitting for a few minutes. Have the shield over the fuel pump, tried running without a hood and that solved it so i put the hood back on after having it louvered.
  5. I also had an off brand heater in my truck with a bad core and searched a list on oreilly auto parts website, found a replacement and made it work. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning---heating/heater-core/b8e4def0b5a5?q=heater+cores Also sourced a new fan motor for it.
  6. Nice YOM plates!
  7. You could position the pieces together with a few sheet metal screws and take it to someone that would weld it, got to be easier than bending the brackets. I’m not much of a welder either but my grinding skills are improving. Good luck!
  8. I did use the mounting brackets (4 pieces) from the original radiator and after positioning the new radiator in relation to the fan, I welded those together and bolted the Champion to them (6 bolts). The front of the radiator is painted black so it looks stock through the grill. You can also still access the hand crank if need be.
  9. The upper hose is Gates 20573 and the lower hose Dayco 70480, iirc I trimmed the length on both hoses to fit correctly and I cut off the angled portion on the upper tank inlet. The fan has about 3/4’’ clearance from the radiator core and from the underside of the top tank.
  10. Here are photos of the CC4749 in my B4B.
  11. You can also “clock” the lower part of the pump to accommodate a better fit.
  12. I used the Champion cc4749 with the side brackets from my stock radiator and cut that downward part off the upper tube, the fan is just slightly under the overhang of the top tank and the radiator works fine in the Arizona heat. I may have numbers for replacement hoses.
  13. I have a T5 in my B4B 230ci with a Cherokee rear end (3.55), I also am running 17” rear wheels 31”h and with a mustang gear set 1st 3.35, 2nd 1.94, I can take off in 2nd, not ideal but 2.47 would be better. The stock 3 speed was 1st 3.3, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.1. I followed John-T-53 T5 build thread and it was a great help. YRMV
  14. I believe the crank flange sets slightly further back on the 230 and the mounting pad on the bellhousing may need to be machined 0.180” to compensate for the starter reaching the ring gear.
  15. I think there is a difference with the flywheel location between a 218 and 230, the flywheel on the 230 sits a little further back so the mounting surface for the starter needs to be milled out about 0.180” to compensate. I think Don had a thread on that.
  16. Mine came with the pump straight out from the engine and the splash pan under it has a hole there to service the sediment bowl from below.
  17. Take off those Phillips screws and rotate the top counterclockwise 60°, put it back together and you should be good.
  18. Another thing you need to do is file off any snags on the pinch weld so the gasket doesn’t get scarred during the install.
  19. I had pulled the original 218 from my truck and rebuilt a 230 for it, had George Asche split the exhaust manifold and modify the stock intake manifold for dual carbs, I also followed John-T-53s T5 project and installed a T5 behind the flathead 6 with a Jeep Cherokee 3.55 rear, so to answer your question the motor is really peppy now and the trans makes a huge difference in city traffic and on the freeway!
  20. I have a 23” 230 with a stock manifold modified by George Asche to mount dual Carter B&Bs.
  21. I screwed a piece of garden hose to the underside of the floor board to cushion the pedal return and cut and super glued the draft seals onto the pedals.
  22. I have the same bed on my ‘53, the drivers side is a mirror image of the passenger side but I believe it is shorter because the license plate hangs off the taillight behind it. That’s how mine is, maybe someone modified it.
  23. I’m in the middle of putting a T5 in my truck and following John-T-53 Project T5 so on Saturday I installed the transmission mount ( Trans-Dapt #9444 ) and attached the battery ground cable to the transmission, getting the driveshaft shortened this week and still need to fab a bracket for the e-brake.
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