joecoozie

Good advice. You can also spray PB Blaster into the drum while tapping it to help it slide off or free up. You may need a drum puller like this one to get it off https://www.ebay.com/itm/174524725015?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1tk20o2JoSDy7WrnwEY2nGg26&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174524725015&targetid=4580153136941812&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225722&mkgroupid=1224856224320848&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941812&abcId=9300906&merchantid=51291&msclkid=32d2982988301ee691bafaf05d6a48aa

Going by what you said in your original post -"Sitting outdoors 10 years +" - If you are truly interested in this car I would jack it up, remove the tires (put air in them, too) and crawl around underneath the car and pay particular attention to the floors/rocker panels/trunk area/frame and body mounts. I don't care how dry an area the car is located in, sitting on dirt for 10+ years can wreak havoc on the underside of ANY car. Also, check to see if the engine is free or stuck by trying to turn it, by hand, using the fan - you may have to put some (hand) pressure on the fan belt so it doesn't slip while trying to turn the engine. Just make sure you check it out thoroughly, top & bottom, before diving into it headfirst. BTW (not that it matters much) - I had a 1954 Belvedere 4-door way back in the late 70's. It was yellow/white. 3-speed. It "ran" but boy did it smoke like a chimney. Also, the rear springs (and you should check the ones on this car) were so worn out that when I drove at night with the low-beams on I was constantly getting "flashed" by on-coming traffic because they thought I had the high-beams on. Because the rear springs were so worn that made the back end of the car sag and it raised the front end up appearing to on-coming traffic that I had the high-beams on.

Possibly a bad ground

I looked at my Chrysler and it looks like this: The 2 that are diagonal to each other are the heater core feed/return hoses. The 3rd one, almost in the middle of the firewall, is for a drain hose for the cowl vent.

on the driver's side around the kick up for the rear axle

So you know the engine is not stuck. Sometimes the ignition switch will lose contact from sitting from oxidation. Maybe that is why you do not get anything when you turn the key. When you jump the starter you need to jump the battery post to the solenoid post otherwise, like you said, the starter will spin but not engage the solenoid. Also, if the car has been sitting for many years, as stated, just throwing a battery in it and trying to start it can cause severe damage to the engine. At the very least, you should pull the plugs and squirt some oil/Marvel Mystery oil or some other lubricant into the cylinders and let them soak for a few days. Then, with the plugs out, turn the engine over by hand. These flatheads are notorious for the valves getting stuck from sitting, too, so lubing everything before turning it over is a good idea. If some of the valves are stuck you may need to pull the head. I would disconnect the fuel pump line to the gas tank (and carb) so you do not pull any dirt into the pump and carb. You will most likely need to clean the points, too, as they oxidize from sitting and will not spark. The best thing to practice while resurrecting a car that has sat for a long time is - PATIENCE!!!!

Can't answer the cell phone question. But for the brake question - just measure the brake drum inside diameter

NICE !!!!

Maybe try jumping the 2 terminals (quickly) with a large screwdriver (or 2) just to see if it engages/spins. It will spark a bit but your only touching them momentarily. If it works then it is either your remote switch or connection somewhere.

I would go to NAPA with the fuel pump and the fuel line(s) and let them match up what you need.

I use a ping pong ball in/on the spark plug hole. When the ball pops up that's the compression stroke

TRY STEELE RUBBER OR ANDY BERNBAUM THEY HAVE A SERVICE TO REDO THE MOUNTS

Try Dennis Bickford of Vintage Woodworks in LaLuz New Mexico I believe he sells them. You can make your own but you need old ones for patterns. I did make a few if you cannot find them And yes, as stated, they are for better air circulation.

I sent you a PM

DJ is correct. The radiator flange(s) go on the inside of the support and the radiator does not sit in the bottom of the support. So you have to lift the radiator to line up the holes on the flange(s) and the support and then use the bolts, going through the flange first and then into the support, to attach them together. It looks like your support will need to be pulled inward on the sides to line up the holes. Be careful working around the fan, too. I always tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator core so as not to have the fan damage the fins.

Do you use bolts to attach the clip to the cowl, then feed the strip over it? Pretty sure this is how it works...... Yes. Bolts hold clips to cowl then the trim piece snaps onto the clip. Put the bottom edge of the trim over the clip tongues and then push/pull up on the trim piece and snap it onto the upper tongues.

Sent yo a PM

I have some 16's I think. I will take a look. I also have some of the larger 15's from a NY'er.

All good advice. BUT.....I did the same thing with (2) 46-48 Chryslers (among other cars) and now I basically have two cars stored in my attic/basement/2 sheds and a tent. Now I am reaching the age where I really need to start liquidating this stuff BUT where and how is the question(s).

SOUNDS LIKE IT COULD BE THE OVER CENTER SPRING https://p15-d24.com/topic/41271-1948-plymouth-clutchover-center-spring-adjustment/

I have removed several starters like these without needing to take anything else off of the car. Remove the 2 bolts and tilt the starter up and it should come out. OR....you can remove it from the top - not as easy but it can be done.

It is probably in your best interest to pull the starter to do the repair. I would think trying to work in a small space will only make it difficult. Also, you can look and see if the pin is laying around somewhere because more than likely the cotter pin(s)/hairpin broke.

No problem

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/328060-master-cylinder-push-rod-adjustment-question/ https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

Try here - www.olsonsgaskets.com