joecoozie

I am leaning towards moisture in the distributor cap since this started happening after it rained. Try popping the cap and use a hair dryer or there is a spray that is sold which removes moisture. Then try to start it. As far as the plug wells getting filled with water that seems to be a common problem - it used to happen to my cars if left outside in the rain - and I think you may have fixed that by sealing the hood seam.

Is the sway/stabilizer bar that is attached to the bracket also bent? Cannot tell from the pictures Maybe you can find a parts car with a good frame or just a frame and go from there. It would be a lot less time consuming/labor intensive going that route. It would also offer you any other parts that you may need Good luck

"There is this button on the left side near my steering column...I was under the impression my starter button was on the floor next to my clutch, is this actually the button? If not, what's it for? When I push it with the key on and battery in I do hear something start to wind up and maybe spin." From what you said above it sounds like your starter is spinning but not engaging the gear to mesh with the Fluid Drive coupling ring gear in order to spin the engine. If you want to see if the engine is free you can grab the fan blades and while pushing down on the fan belt for tension try to turn the fan blades which will, if the engine is free, spin/turn the engine. Or you can remove the radiator and the fan blades- it is very easy - to get to the crank pulley nut to rotate the engine.

Check the oil level in the Fluid Drive coupling. That may be low. Could also be faulty wiring/solenoids. Try this , too. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm http://blog.oldmoparts.com/fluid-drive-information/

Put the pump in on a slight angle with the arm under the cam lobe. As mentioned before - don't forget the gasket. You should be able to catch one bolt into the block - tighten it just enough to hold the pump in place Then with one hand push the other side of the pump up to line up the other mounting hole and thread the bolt into the block. It helps to keep some upward pressure on the pump while tightening the bolt. It makes it easier to do.

Even if you found an NOS one, which is a long shot, chances are it would be useless because of its age. It will tear very easily. Maybe search around to see if anyone is reproducing it.

1/2" DRIVE

Sent you PM & email Joe

Hi, There are several wood workers that can make wood for the 50 Plymouth Woody. However, keep in mind , as stated above, there are no "kits" available - unlike a Ford of the same year. So, if a new wood body needs to be fabricated it would basically be done specifically for your car. Also, the wood, once made would need to be "fitted" and adjusted to the car. It is a very expensive process and I would venture to say may cost in the ballpark of $25,000-$30,000 for an entirely new wood body - unless you are doing some of it yourself. I have followed some threads here and on other Forums of members doing the wood themselves. I tip my hat to them as to the beautiful work they are doing - and for dedicating the extensive amount of time and patience to see the project through Also, if, as you say, there is one car that has a lot of the wood that can make it "easier"/ "simpler" for you to use the old wood as a pattern for reproduction. Good luck if you decide to "dive into" the project. Post some pictures, too.

#1- Drop the oil pan and clean it out - it will probably have an inch of sludge in it #2- Remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40/oil into each cylinder. Either clean or replace the spark plugs. #3- Turn the engine over BY HAND - this will assure that the lubricant will coat the cylinder walls. #4- Remove the valve covers and clean out the sludge that sits in the oil "wells" - And, get someone else to turn the engine over by hand, while you watch the valves/lifters. You may find that there are a couple of stuck valves #5- Remove the distributor cap & rotor and either clean the points or replace them and the condenser. Also, check the cap and rotor - they may need to be cleaned or replaced. When cars sit these parts develop oxidation and need to be "cleaned" - or filed to remove the oxidation. #6- As mentioned above - check coolant, hoses, belt, etc. You might want to lube the water pump, too. #7- Run a remote gas tank with fresh gas connected to the fuel pump. #8 - And most importantly - HAVE PATIENCE - DO NOT RUSH TO TRY AND START THE CAR WITHOUT TAKING, AT THE LEAST, THE ABOVE PRECAUTIONS. YOU CAN DO A LOT OF DAMAGE BY JUST DROPPING A BATTERY IN AND CRANKING THE ENGINE......

https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-chrysler-plymouth-dodge-desoto-fluid-drive.229898/ Check this out

#1- Drop the oil pan and clean it out - it will probably have an inch of sludge in it #2- Remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40 into each cylinder. Either clean or replace the spark plugs. #3- Turn the engine over BY HAND - this will assure that the lubricant will coat the cylinder walls. #4- Remove the valve covers and clean out the sludge that sits in the oil "wells" - And, get someone else to turn the engine over by hand, while you watch the valves/lifters. You may find that there are a couple of stuck valves #5- Remove the distributor cap & rotor and either clean the points or replace them and the condenser. Also, check the cap and rotor - they may need to be cleaned or replaced. When cars sit these parts develop oxidation and need to be "cleaned" - or filed to remove the oxidation. #6- As mentioned above - check coolant, hoses, belt, etc. You might want to lube the water pump, too. #7- Run a remote gas tank with fresh gas connected to the fuel pump. #8 - And most importantly - HAVE PATIENCE - DO NOT RUSH TO TRY AND START THE CAR WITHOUT TAKING, AT THE LEAST, THE ABOVE PRECAUTIONS. YOU CAN DO A LOT OF DAMAGE BY JUST DROPPING A BATTERY IN AND CRANKING THE ENGINE......

It should be aluminum (silver). However, I have seen some red/blue heads but that is not from the factory. Also, the "SPITFIRE" script was not red from the factory. It was just aluminum (silver) - same as the block and oil pan. Some owners like to paint the "SPITFIRE" script to make it stand out.

It is, as stated before, the second one. The 1st one is for a 1949.

Sent a PM

Post a picture of the area that they mount to so we can see the screw pattern.

NAPA has a listing for them. The #'s are: RPC51240 - FRONTS RPC51242 - REARS They list at $239.99/pair Kanters also has listings - Questions? Please call 800-526-1096 or 973-334-9575.

Sent you a PM Joe

If they are they should have sockets attached on the ends, with bulbs, that would be inserted into the gauges

Dennis Bickford, PO Box 1132 LaLuz NM 88337-1132 575-443-1160

It was for the front and rear windows

OOOPS!?? I GOT CAUGHT. BUT IT STILL COUNTS -- AT LEAST IN MY BOOK EVEN SO I STILL DON'T HAVE THE CAR!!!!!!

Sorry.... I beat you to the punch by 40 minutes or so.

You could sell it to me for a modest profit......

You could try Olson's Gaskets. They can make you one if they do not have it. I needed valve cover gaskets for my 49 Caddy (with the "early" motor) and I couldn't find them anywhere. I called Olson's and they made me a set. Very nice people to deal with, too.