joecoozie

Sent you PM & email Joe

Hi, There are several wood workers that can make wood for the 50 Plymouth Woody. However, keep in mind , as stated above, there are no "kits" available - unlike a Ford of the same year. So, if a new wood body needs to be fabricated it would basically be done specifically for your car. Also, the wood, once made would need to be "fitted" and adjusted to the car. It is a very expensive process and I would venture to say may cost in the ballpark of $25,000-$30,000 for an entirely new wood body - unless you are doing some of it yourself. I have followed some threads here and on other Forums of members doing the wood themselves. I tip my hat to them as to the beautiful work they are doing - and for dedicating the extensive amount of time and patience to see the project through Also, if, as you say, there is one car that has a lot of the wood that can make it "easier"/ "simpler" for you to use the old wood as a pattern for reproduction. Good luck if you decide to "dive into" the project. Post some pictures, too.

#1- Drop the oil pan and clean it out - it will probably have an inch of sludge in it #2- Remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40/oil into each cylinder. Either clean or replace the spark plugs. #3- Turn the engine over BY HAND - this will assure that the lubricant will coat the cylinder walls. #4- Remove the valve covers and clean out the sludge that sits in the oil "wells" - And, get someone else to turn the engine over by hand, while you watch the valves/lifters. You may find that there are a couple of stuck valves #5- Remove the distributor cap & rotor and either clean the points or replace them and the condenser. Also, check the cap and rotor - they may need to be cleaned or replaced. When cars sit these parts develop oxidation and need to be "cleaned" - or filed to remove the oxidation. #6- As mentioned above - check coolant, hoses, belt, etc. You might want to lube the water pump, too. #7- Run a remote gas tank with fresh gas connected to the fuel pump. #8 - And most importantly - HAVE PATIENCE - DO NOT RUSH TO TRY AND START THE CAR WITHOUT TAKING, AT THE LEAST, THE ABOVE PRECAUTIONS. YOU CAN DO A LOT OF DAMAGE BY JUST DROPPING A BATTERY IN AND CRANKING THE ENGINE......

https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-chrysler-plymouth-dodge-desoto-fluid-drive.229898/ Check this out

#1- Drop the oil pan and clean it out - it will probably have an inch of sludge in it #2- Remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40 into each cylinder. Either clean or replace the spark plugs. #3- Turn the engine over BY HAND - this will assure that the lubricant will coat the cylinder walls. #4- Remove the valve covers and clean out the sludge that sits in the oil "wells" - And, get someone else to turn the engine over by hand, while you watch the valves/lifters. You may find that there are a couple of stuck valves #5- Remove the distributor cap & rotor and either clean the points or replace them and the condenser. Also, check the cap and rotor - they may need to be cleaned or replaced. When cars sit these parts develop oxidation and need to be "cleaned" - or filed to remove the oxidation. #6- As mentioned above - check coolant, hoses, belt, etc. You might want to lube the water pump, too. #7- Run a remote gas tank with fresh gas connected to the fuel pump. #8 - And most importantly - HAVE PATIENCE - DO NOT RUSH TO TRY AND START THE CAR WITHOUT TAKING, AT THE LEAST, THE ABOVE PRECAUTIONS. YOU CAN DO A LOT OF DAMAGE BY JUST DROPPING A BATTERY IN AND CRANKING THE ENGINE......

It should be aluminum (silver). However, I have seen some red/blue heads but that is not from the factory. Also, the "SPITFIRE" script was not red from the factory. It was just aluminum (silver) - same as the block and oil pan. Some owners like to paint the "SPITFIRE" script to make it stand out.

It is, as stated before, the second one. The 1st one is for a 1949.

Sent a PM

Post a picture of the area that they mount to so we can see the screw pattern.

NAPA has a listing for them. The #'s are: RPC51240 - FRONTS RPC51242 - REARS They list at $239.99/pair Kanters also has listings - Questions? Please call 800-526-1096 or 973-334-9575.

Sent you a PM Joe

If they are they should have sockets attached on the ends, with bulbs, that would be inserted into the gauges

Dennis Bickford, PO Box 1132 LaLuz NM 88337-1132 575-443-1160

It was for the front and rear windows

OOOPS!?? I GOT CAUGHT. BUT IT STILL COUNTS -- AT LEAST IN MY BOOK EVEN SO I STILL DON'T HAVE THE CAR!!!!!!

Sorry.... I beat you to the punch by 40 minutes or so.

You could sell it to me for a modest profit......

You could try Olson's Gaskets. They can make you one if they do not have it. I needed valve cover gaskets for my 49 Caddy (with the "early" motor) and I couldn't find them anywhere. I called Olson's and they made me a set. Very nice people to deal with, too.

It's there. 850 made in 1949 and Pekin Wood supplied the wooden bodies (pretty sure?)

Keep prying at them (top and bottom and both ends) and spraying lube on the studs as you work the manifolds back and forth and up and down. They will eventually come off in one piece. Just need patience. I removed the ones on a Chrysler and it took a few days.

Try Dennis Bickford (Vintage Woodworks)

Not exactly sure about your 41 Chrysler BUT on 1946-1950's cars there is a "tab" on the top/inside of the door that goes into a slot. So you need to pull the bottom out slightly and then push up, from the bottom, to release the tab from the slot

Unfortunately, Chrysler product cars of this era (51-55 or so), especially 4-door sedans, are not in great demand unless priced as a "bargain". Not saying they are not good, reliable and fun cars but the market is very "soft" for them. With that said, and if you want a quick sale, I would price it somewhere in the $3000-$4000 range. I don't know the "rust" issues it may have but if it has a lot of rust/rot then you may need to go a bit lower. Not knocking your car just being "real". Joe

The sending unit grounds to the tank when it is installed in the access hole. Yes, the rubber strips go between the tank and the straps to prevent wear. It sounds like the sending unit went bad. These new units are not made well as others have had problems, too. If you saved the old unit you also could have checked the float arms to make sure the new one is "bent" the same as the old one so as to get an accurate reading.

JUST SAW THE "BLUE" LINK EXPLAINING THE SITUATION