joecoozie
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Everything posted by joecoozie
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Tires were/are?? stamped "BLEM" when they are not deemed "perfect" to sell for full price. That meant that there were some flaws to the tire (i.e. - crooked whitewall(s), etc....) They were sold at a discounted price because of the flaws.
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Hopefully you are planning on replacing the rear (rubber) mounts because from the looks of the one in the picture you really should replace them I would also replace the front motor mount.
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That's how it should be. At least on a 1948. On a 1950 car it possibly could be the same.
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Or you can use this: https://www.rubbertherightway.com/flat-rubber-sheets-masticated-rubber-54099-prd1.htm?productFeedId=0&utm_source=googleBaseFeed&utm_medium=shoppingEngine&utm_campaign=Google&source=productlistings{adwords_producttargetid}&origin=&utm_term=4588811781483185&utm_content=Catch All
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Not to ask a stupid question but.... Don't you have a battery hold down????
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Have you polarized the generator? I believe you just flash the BAT to GEN posts on the regulator - you should see spark(s). If I am wrong someone will correct me.
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Sent you a PM
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He has a Chrysler Saratoga. Completely different.
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There are chrome "buttons" that fill the radio knob holes. They have "locking tabs" on them (much like a hubcap) that when pressed into the hole lock the piece in place. I probably have one but I would need to locate it and take pictures for you.
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Sent you a PM
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If your timing is set correctly the #1 plug wire (and rotor) should be at 7 o'clock (or close) on cyl #1 compression stroke
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Click on the link not the download.....
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It only took me 3 times to get it right......
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Once more...... https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=1942+chrysler+royal+interior&fr=yfp-t&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmomentcar.com%2Fimages%2Fchrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg#id=0&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmomentcar.com%2Fimages%2Fchrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg&action=click chrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg.crdownload
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no image
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I believe the one you show is 41-42 This is the correct one for your Royal - or like it I think the correct one has a red crown in the center of the knob.
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"someone put a plumbing shutoff in it (thats some backwoods engineering I would do if Im being honest) " That shutoff valve is a factory part. I have seen original cars with that same valve. Question: Do you have a cable coming from the "TEMP" control knob on the dash? You will need that to control your new valve.
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Looks like you may have dual heaters. If so you will need the "rabbit ear(s)" control valve. I had one but sold it and IF you can find one you will pay big $$$$$ The valve you have is for a single heater.
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I saw you posted for stuff on the AACA Forum(s), too. I answered your post but I will pass this along anyway. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124813855571?epid=20039143957&hash=item1d0f7c4b53:g:jekAAOSwCrFg8ciq&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsLl2p%2Ffmbd2f%2BTCm65yGBGnJsMp%2B1cYTwOTy07SAZQNIMEys9GYMdZUm%2Fgpan3Bem%2BptdPhfvHws0R77%2BkfB2oOFfBAjZo6WmOg13uoKKANP1yEKs%2FGiSTDeOgUXel8bElNqEJWIAx7F2DVJQz%2Fj2We26NDRON%2B0mV559YxdlXt1NNz3GMBqYCBloOZedz88NbNMVaLcmZ5OrUxwRHBZC%2FQgErN0v9BHaPKdj%2BOgZXtW|tkp%3ABk9SR8Kpzdi_YQ
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what is a good oil for breaking in a rebuilt flathead?
joecoozie replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I don't know what Non-California means but O'reillys has it. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/non-california/chemicals---fluids/oil/motor-oil---conventional/2673028dc6c2/pure-guard-non-california-conventional-motor-oil-10w-1-quart/pgdn/nd10 -
Sent you another PM
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Sent you a PM
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Problem connecting wire to Sisson choke on 48 DeSoto
joecoozie replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The one on Ebay is for an 8 cylinder This is the one for a 6 cylinder
