joecoozie

TRY: https://bobdrake.com/products/1941-48-coupe-sedan-upper-door-bumpers

How much do you want for them? Also, could you post a picture of them out of the box Joe

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"I swear this Plymouth is going to be the cause of me drinking…." Maybe you should have started drinking BEFORE working on it..........

Try Bernbaums and ask them if it is SAE or Metric As far as MoparPro is concerned - I'll keep my comments to myself

Looks like some type of sealer......like Indian Head gasket sealer As Rich said - recheck torque

Clean/check grounds ............... VERY IMPORTANT Also, sometimes the switch can become oxidized inside and not make good connection(s)

https://www.fatmansgarage.com/products/1949-chrysler-new-yorker-bumper-guard-crash-bar-license-plate-surround-49-mopar

Check out this thread:

I deleted it so as not to create any confusion for the OP Thanks

What, you can't believe everything on the internet??????? Sorry if I misinformed the OP. My bad. I'm old, give me a break.......???

Did the car sit for any length of time? Has the fuel tank been cleaned and sealed? Could be a lot of things.....junk from the gas tank, clogged line(s)..... Maybe remove the line going into the carb and see if you are getting a good flow of gas and check for any dirt or residue. Do you have an inline filter between the fuel pump and the carb? If not put one in and see how the gas looks coming from the tank. Wouldn't hurt to put one in anyway. I had an old Rambler that ran fine at idle but when I went to accelerate it would sputter and stall. It would then restart immediately and idle but then sputter and stall - every time. I ran a "new" rubber fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump (bypassing the original line) and that solved the issue.

Under "normal" conditions it is not necessary to jack up the car. You can remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as one piece or split them and remove them separately, if you need or want to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/321648394746?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338678874&toolid=20006%26customid%3Ds%3AGS%3Bgc%3Ab306c86439c61a6520deab24dae69d9e%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3Ab306c86439c61a6520deab24dae69d9e%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A2&msclkid=b306c86439c61a6520deab24dae69d9e

4-06-3 is the section of the parts manual that the bolt is listed in. Go to that section and look up that #/part number. Then you can find the description of the bolt by the part #

Did you polarize the regulator/generator after removing and disassembling them? " How to Polarize 6 Volt Regulators Find your vehicle’s or machine’s volt regulator. It’s usually square, with five or six terminal screws on the side. If your regulator has five terminals, locate the terminal marked “A” on the regulator. Connect your jumper wire to the battery terminal with a clip. You might also wonder how to polarize a 6v positive ground generator. Attach one clip to the A terminal of the generator to polarize a generator on a tractor with a Delco 6V positive ground system, a Lucas 6V or 12V positive ground system. Tap the negative (-) terminal on the battery for a split second (or a spark occurs) in the other clip. Second, how do I put a 6 volt generator to the test? How to Test a 6-Volt Generator Turn on your car’s battery. It’s the simplest way to see if your 6-volt generator produces the correct voltage. The 6-volt generator should be turned on in your car. To measure voltage, turn the dial on your multimeter. Place the metal rods on the battery terminals’ ends on the two wires from the meter. How do you polarize a Chevy generator in this context? How to Polarize a 12-Volt Generator Remove the fan belt from your vehicle or machine before the generator starts. You may be able to remove it by hand; if not, use a socket set to loosen the sway bar arm. Connect the jumper wire to the generator’s armature terminal. Connect the positive terminal on the battery to the other end of the jumper wire. Why is it necessary to polarize a generator? Polarizing is performed to ensure that the Generator and Regulator are operating and charging at the same time. Simply put, working together rather than against one another to ensure that the vehicle’s electrical system keeps you running. Both are negative and positive, but they both do the same thing."

How about here: https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/

Look up Masticated Rubber on Steeles website. It is used as an anti-squeak barrier between metal parts

Reverse is pull towards you and then up I gave you sort of an answer in the AACA Forum

Call Then & Now..... Get a price from them to rebuild it.......

Then & Now Automotive has kits for $52.50 and they really know their stuff. The $45 Ebay pump has a disclosure statement, in bright red, stating that - "Please realize that most of the parts we sell on E-bay are over 30 years old, and they will be in need of full restoration and are not leaving us here in perfect condition, but they are a good restorable parts" So this pump will most likely need a rebuild

Where, on the car, did the bang come from?

Have you tried to let the car cool down and then try to start it? As stated before, it could be the coil, which may fail when it is hot, and may work if it is cool.

The "tube" from the carb is a vacuum line that gets hooked up to the distributor vacuum advance. The "tube" in your picture, I believe, is for the oil pressure gauge. It runs up the side of the engine block and then gets connected to a rubber line, approx. 5-6 inches long, which then connects to another "tube" that comes through the firewall and that is connected to the oil gauge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143360940286?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=900c5ac296aa1d1e16a539c610dd0fc6 Keep the questions coming......