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Alshere59 last won the day on August 6 2013

Alshere59 had the most liked content!


About Alshere59

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Dayton, Ohio
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth 4 Door
    230 Engine running a Fenton Intake, R7 Overdrive, Disc brakes front and back.


  • Location
  • Interests
    Cars etc

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  1. BK it will be a search for the right shock. When you relocate the length will be different for everyone since you mount the new top mount where ever. So th resting, travel and over all length will vary. try here,http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf . Harley this explains it. It helps with the ride and handling.
  2. This help? http://p15-d24.com/search/?&q=master cylinder bracket&sortby=relevancy
  3. I had thought only the Edmunds were water heated unless you added a plate where the heat riser was... Post a picture if you can..
  4. Rockwood have you ever run a gps and compare it to your speedometer reading? That may help but you never know.
  5. So the 1" phenolic washers were only for heat? Also why the balance tube on the stock set? I have fenton dual carb intake and have seen it mentioned to run the same 1 inch spacers but I had thought it was for low speed torque. Now i need to find that discussion again..
  6. WESTACH has them listed just go to the single gauge menu. As mentioned before give them a call to see iy they have what you need. Model: 3CT53-2-6V Price: $143.65 Tachometer 5,000 RPM, 3" round, std pt or mag ign, 1-1/2 & 3 imp, ( 3 or 6 cyl ) 6 volt positive/negative ground. Model: 2CT33-6V Price: $124.65 Tachometer 3,500 RPM, 2" round, std pt ign, 3 imp/rev ( 6 cyl ), 6 volt, pos or neg grd Your second question you can decide after reading this. There are other threads as well just search the forums. Al
  7. You might want to consider using electrolysis. Just reverse the leads and it will eat the metal rim away from the glass. I cracked a lense prying it out when I converted mine, but the next one I just lifted the metal off. I just had it deep enough to cover the edge holding the glass. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp
  8. Don't forget to add relays to the light circuit as it will pull more amps with the new bulbs. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgb/headlight_relays_revb.pdf
  9. Knuckle I agree all things like engine temp etc is the same you get heat. Just looking at ducts etc for the different models to see how well they work is all.
  10. I have no idea if the duct is the same. What model number is on the heater? Care to share a picture of the under seat heater and does it have a model number?
  11. I have seen that parts were cardboard. Is this the only part? I had looked at that already and was wondering if a template was available I have a friend that should be able to do in sheet metal. A bit of insulation added I think. Interesting thank you for posting.
  12. So I am starting to work on my old Plymouth again.Looking over the manuals I see a number of heaters were an option. So since I have none, I was wondering do they work well? Looking at defrost and heat. Looking at keeping it 6 volts so.... Reading the old posts I see recommendations for an Arvin etc.. but if original work why not as I see a model 70 etc available.So what are the thoughts of the forum? Just looking at heat and especially defrosters. good? bad?. Looking at temps probably high teens F. Any models that stand out.?
  13. Andy Bernbaum has them here. http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-universal-joint.aspx
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