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About Pete

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth P8 Touring Sedan
    1938 Dodge Brothers RC 1/2 Ton Pickup
    P15-d24 Forum member since 2009.


  • Location
  • Interests
    Tinkering with and driving old cars

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  1. If you really want to geek out on this subject, this is a great book (attached). 2020-02-23-0001.pdf
  2. Hi Keith, This might help. It's a chart I recently put together for the Plymouth & Dodge 23" engines from 1934 through 1959. I made it because I was trying to figure out where all the bits on my engine came from, and what performance increases I might get. I sourced the stats from Mopar parts manuals, Motor manuals, and some online. I think it's pretty accurate, but not perfect. And additions or corrections thankfully received. Pete Plymouth - Dodge CID HP CR 1934 - 59.pdf
  3. These may or may not help. Pete Mopar wiring code information.pdf Guide to Wire and Fuses.pdf
  4. My wife and I met in our 50s. Her father was always into old cars and was a judge at Hersey for many years. She went with him since she was about 10 years old. He had all kinds of old cars including Packards, a '38 Chrysler, Studebakers, a SAAB 3 cylinder 2 stroke (known as the "buzz bomb"). Unfortunately, he passed away just before I met my wife, so maybe I'm a replacement? She says if he had lived longer she would never see me as we'd always be in the garage working on old cars. She loves to go on old car tours when she can get away. Pete
  5. Keith - that spring under the gas pedal is exactly what I did on my '38 Dodge Brothers pickup. It's worked well for years. Pete
  6. Hi all, Attached are the installation instructions for the Auto-Lite HRB-4201 headlight relay. If you are looking for authenticity these are period correct as they came on Studebakers and Hudsons from 1939 - 41. I have one of these on both my '38 Dodge Brothers pickup and my '39 Plymouth touring sedan. They work well. They come with a 14 amp fuse. I needed up replace that with a 20 amp to handle the increased draw of halogen headlights. The hookup is easy. You only need one relay, and it installs in series on the wire from the headlight switch to the foot dimmer switch. This way both the high and low beams go through the relay. I put my relays on the firewall low on the driver's side. I see these on eBay often. Mine has never given me any trouble. Pete Auto-Lite Headlight Relay Installation Instructions.pdf
  7. I replaced the vent window glass on my '39 Plymouth touring sedan a couple of months ago. I took them to a local glass place because I wanted tempered glass installed. Someone had replaced the glass previously with safety glass, which had started chipping badly on the vertical side that touches the front roll-up window. I read somewhere the original vent glass was tempered. Only the vent glass was tempered, the other glass was safety glass. Pete
  8. Vermont on the Connecticut River. Last year's picnic was great. See you again in September! Pete
  9. Hi Dodgeb4ya, I'm not sure what you mean by "T-tubes" ....that being a 3" welded washer and tube assembly. I'm having my engine rebuilt ('39 Ply) and have purchased new upper and lower rear mouths, washers, and bolts. These are all separate parts. I haven't taken off the old mounts yet. Should there be a tube that the bolt fits in that is welded to the washer? Attached is a scan of the rear mount parts for the 1939 Plymouth Passenger Car Parts List. Pete
  10. Hi all, I'm hoping someone can identify this cylinder head. The number on the head appears to be either 131804-3 or 131:804-3 or 1311804-3. See attached pics. The block is original to my '39 Plymouth. The engine was worked on probably in the early 1950s based on dates stamped on replacement parts. It was bored out to 2 1/4 inches which makes it as 218 rather than the original 201. The engine is currently being rebuilt. This head has been machined as part of the rebuild. It now has a compression ratio of about 7.5 to 1, which will still leave good flow. The top had .005 taken off to even things up. It is an external bypass head. I have a number of Mopar parts books but can't find this part number anywhere. Questions: What does the big "D" on the head stand for? Dodge? What is the extra tapped hole between #4 and #5 spark plugs for? It's the one with the bolt in it in the pics. It goes through to the combustion chamber. In the past it was plugged with a bolt and had nothing attached to it. It has a boss which makes it look line part of the original casting. This is not the timing hole over the #6 cylinder. Mostly, what engine and vehicle did this head originally come on? What years was it used? Also, I got an NOS cylinder head that is correct for 201 & 218 heads. My engine builder cc'ed it and said he can't take enough off to get the CR anywhere near the current head, so it was decided to use the mystery head and not use the NOS head. Thanks, Pete
  11. Just to confuse the issue -- in 1937 & 38 Dodge put 216 25" blocks in their half, 3/4, and one ton trucks. That's what I have in my 38 RC, and the build card says it's original to the truck. Pete
  12. It looks like a calm breeze could knock it over.
  13. Hi all, There appears to be an unusual situation with my flathead six. My '39 Plymouth was manufactured in Detroit and has a 23" head. The build card indicates that this engine was installed at the factory. The engine serial number is P8 (star) 347550 (star). It should be a 201 cid (3 1/8 inch bore). It has been bored to 218 cid (3 1/4 inch bore). This may have been done at the factory. The engine is currently at the rebuilder who found some interesting things after disassembling and measuring the block and components. Here is what I think may nave happened: I've read that the second star in the engine serial number indicates factory modifications. I've also read that Plymouth would pull blocks off the assembly line that had imperfections in the bore, and would typically bore them a bit oversize. They put a mark on these blocks for the engine assemblers down the line, but I don't recall what or where that mark was. There is a sleeve in the #6 bore. If it was installed at the factory (hence the second star), that might account for the overbore to 218 cid. All cylinders were bored to 3 1/4 inch. All cylinders were bored again by just .005 inch, probably after the sleeve was installed. A .005 inch bore is so small you hardly hear of it. Best guess is that was done to clean up the sleeve. There was some engine work done about 1950, but the rebuilder says that the sleeve and related boring were done prior to that, and the 1950 work was only on the crank (turned). So, if my speculation is correct, I seem to have an original Plymouth 1939 engine that came from the factory with 218 cid. No problem with the overbore -- after all, that's what Dodge was delivering with the same block that year. I'm interested to hear what others think may account for this situation. It's interesting how good the condition of this engine is. There is surprisingly little internal wear. The crank, main bearings, lifters, cam, and all but one valve will be reused. The brass water distribution tube looks almost new. The crank will be balanced. Of course all new pistons, rings, etc. as the block will be rebored a bit to clean it up. Before disassembly the compression, vacuum, idle, etc. were pretty good. The original intent of this rebuild was to clean out the galleries and water jackets, address leaking gaskets, seals, freeze plugs, etc., as well as a general freshening up. The head is going to get shaved a bit to increase compression. I'm getting the transmission rebuilt too. I'm looking forward to driving the car next spring. Pete
  14. I got mine at McMaster Carr. Single unit quantities. I'm afraid I no longer have the part number.
  15. I'm currently getting my '39 Plymouth engine rebuilt. One of the reasons is that the freeze plugs were just starting to leak a bit. They were steel. The rebuilder told me that dates stamped into the various internal parts indicate the engine was last rebuilt about 1950. I'd say the steel plugs work well if you take care what you put in the cooling system. On another note, the brass water distribution tube came out looking almost brand new. I've also heard that brass reacts with aluminum, but not with steel or iron. Pete
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