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Pete

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    185
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About Pete

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vermont
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth P8 Touring Sedan
    1938 Dodge Brothers RC 1/2 Ton Pickup
    P15-d24 Forum member since 2009.

Converted

  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    Tinkering with and driving old cars

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  1. One of my top bucket list cars is a 1934 Desoto Airflow 2 door coupe. This is pretty darn close. My vote is to go for it & work out the logistics later. Pete
  2. I spoke with Pertronix support a couple of months ago. He said that resistor wires were mandatory to avoid interference with the Igniter. I've read elsewhere that you do not want to use both resister wires and resister plugs as that is too much resistance. In other words, if you are going with the igniter, use resister plug wires and non-resister plugs. Pete
  3. Thanks Rich, Good stuff. I run a fused relay with 10g wire on the headlights. You are correct on the 2330 bulbs. The pins are off by 90 degrees from the sockets in our old Mopars. I believe those were used on Harleys, and perhaps F*rds. I've used the 2531 50/35 tungsten bulbs. They are not nearly as bright as the halogen 50/35 bulbs. I have good sockets for 2331 and a couple of spares as well. I've dealt with Don Axelrod in the past and found him to be a good source of advise and old parts. Pete
  4. They are not the same wattage. Keep in mind that the issue discussed was for 1939 Plymouth. These have the old style headlights with separate lens, reflectors, bulbs, etc. If you keep these original but want a brighter bulb, you need to use a Mazda 2331 bulb. There are limited vendors who supply halogen 2331 bulbs. The vendor I mentioned above has 2 versions: 35w/35w and 35w/50w. Yep, these draw a lot of power. The calculations I used: 6 volt electrical system (positive ground) Bulbs: 35/35 watts 50/35 watts ********************************************* For 2 halogen bulbs: 70 watts 100 watts Amps = watts / volts ********************************************** 70 watts / 6 volts = 12.7 amps for 2 halogen 35 watt bulbs 100 watts / 6 volts = 16.7 amps for 2 halogen 50 watt bulbs So I went with an alternator so as not to tax the original charging system given what else it needs to do. Changing back to tungsten bulbs and generator would take about 30 minutes if I choose to do that. My ammeter certain shows the different between the tungsten and halogen bulbs. Pete
  5. I had my 39 P8 rebuilt over the winter. It had a brass WDT, which surprised me. It has the original 39 engine. Not sure if the WDT was original. It could have been replaced when the engine was last rebuild in the 1950's. Anyway, the tube was brass. It came out fairly easily, and looked almost new so it was reused. Since the rebuild the car's previous overheating issues seems to have gone away. One note: you may want to replace the water pump bolt closest to the generator with a stud. I had to remove that bolt to change the upper generator bracket when I installed an alternator. Because those threads go so deep I had to remove the fan and pulley to get that bolt out. A real pain to be avoided. Pete
  6. Halogen bulbs draw more amps than tungsten bulbs. They often need an alternator to supply enough power. LED bulbs draw less than tungsten. I run halogen bulbs in my P8. I got them here: https://www.lbcarco.com/ Good people to deal with. Pete
  7. I lived in Minnesota in the '90s. An out-of-stater moved there to work with us. After a number of months he asked why so many people had burglar alarms on their cars if crime was so low where we lived. He had been looking at the AC power plugs that extended through the grille to plug in the block heaters. Pete
  8. I've been looking into a Pertronix setup for my 39 Plymouth. I got the coil dimensions from their website and measured the diameter my my current firewall mounted coil. The Pertronix coil is only slightly smaller. Might not even need to shim it to fit the stock bracket. Pete
  9. FYI: I've run only non-ethanol gas since the rebuild, so I think I've good on reading the plugs. As I like to tour I will eventually have to fill up with ethanol gas. Another reason to open it up a bit more. Pete
  10. I've been looking into jet sizes lately. This may or may not help. My 39 Plymouth P8 Carter B&B carb came standard with a .053 main jet. After whatever engine mods by previous owners it seemed to run a bit lean, but close. One of those mods was boring the engine out from 201 to 218. I recently had the engine rebuilt, which included cleaning up the cylinders by .030 and higher compression by further shaving the 1950s Dodge cylinder head. It ran even a bit more lean, so I increased the jet size to .055. After that, the plugs looked better, but not where I would like them, so I'm going to go to .057 and see where I am. Pete
  11. I run a 6v positive ground Airtex pump on my 1939 Plymouth. I use it for priming just like Wraith said. I use the 3 - 4 psi one, as that's the pressure these old cars want to see. Works very well. I use just a rebuilt NOS mechanical pump for almost all of my driving. Handles the steep mountain grades well with the Airtex off. I used to have a Carter electric pump, but I could not run just the mechanical pump on steep grades unless the Carter electric pump was switched on. It seemed to have a restriction in the flow when it was turned off that the pulse pump does not have. I spoke to a tech support guy at Airtex not long ago. He was one of the rare ones that would tell you the truth, not the company line. He said that Airtex was bought by the company that owns Carter, and is in the process of discontinuing the Airtex pumps. He said that if you order an Airtex electric pulse pump you will likely receive a Carter pulse pump, and that Carter only makes one part number for both the 12v and 6v applications. He pretty much said those were crap. The Airtex pulse pumps currently listed on Amazon still use the old picture but are not the pump that I use. I ordered one and sent it back. Pete
  12. If I remember correctly, the button will only depress if the key is turned to a certain position. Pete
  13. Keith, Nice work. I'm planning a similar project for my '39 Plymouth. I like that USB charger. Where did you source it from? Pete
  14. I have this arrangement on my '38 Dodge pickup. I use a needle nose pliers to push the two flat parts of one of the spring clips together so they will fit through the small square hole. Pete
  15. They were an option on all 1939 Plymouths and likely other years as well. They are listed in the sales literature. Pete
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