joecoozie

Check to make sure all the bulb sockets have a good/clean/solid ground. A good ground is essential in any electrical circuit.

You can disconnect the engine from the bellhousing leaving the bellhousing in place. There are (if I remember) 4 (possibly more) bolts that connect the engine/bellhousing together I have done it this way several times

If you decide to go back to Positive Ground make sure you switch, or at least check, the wires on the coil. They may have been reversed, too, and maybe why, when you switched to Positive Ground, the car wouldn't start (just a guess) As Bryan G asked, "Was the car charging, per the ammeter, before the failure?" If not then there could be problems with the generator/voltage regulator. Do you know if the PO polarized the generator/regulator after switching to Negative ground?

Ebay????

This is all I could come up with right now. From what I saw in other pictures the radiator should not be leaning in either direction (frontwards or backwards). It should be straight up. The bar in the center of the support frame should be straight,too.

Lesson learned. Those tools in your picture are NOT needed....? You have to remember to remove the 2 nuts on the bottom/underside of the radiator frame that holds the radiator in place - you're car has those, correct??? Once the fan and pulley are removed there is plenty of room to get the radiator out. When I remove radiators I tape/attach a piece of cardboard or foam over the side that faces the engine which prevents any damage to the fins. Even with the fan and pulley removed there is still a chance for damaging the fins if the radiator slips or shifts positions while removing it

I have always gone by the rule that if a car has been run with non-detergent oil from new for many years, and the engine has never been rebuilt, that non-detergent oil should be used. I always, at the very least, drop the oil pan, clean out the oil filter housing and remove the valve covers in order to remove all the sludge that has accumulated over the years. But ALL of the sludge/particles can never be removed unless the engine is dismantled and cleaned When detergent oil is used in an engine that has only run on non-detergent oil, as martybose said, this could create issues with the sludge being circulated through the engine and/or the sludge being removed thereby creating issues such as smoking or ?????

Where are you located? Sent a PM

I had a stuck valve and piston recently and I tried everything - MMO, ATF/ACETONE/KROIL/PB BLASTER/WD40.....I even tried a large wrench on the crank nut. Wouldn't budge....... What worked for me was white vinegar with a touch of MMO for lubrication. When I filled the plug hole with it the next day I could see air bubbles all around the perimeter of the spark plug hole. The day after I rigged up an adapter for the plug hole and connected my air compressor to it and put 90 LBS of pressure into the cylinder. It was still holding the air (bad) a couple of days later. So I jacked up the "drive" wheel and put the car into second gear then went and jiggled the wheel back and forth. After a few jiggles - I heard hissing (good) coming from the plug hole and the engine turned a 1/4 turn (had the fan blade marked and it moved).Also, freed up the valve

Not sure if he is still alive or not but Andy sold the business a few years ago. They still use his name (Bernbaum's) though. Keep trying

That's a picture I took off the internet for him to see the lever in question. That is NOT his car Try Bernbaum's for the grommet - oldmoparts.com

This may help

Looking at your picture again I would say that the lever that you pointed to should be in the collar or at least connected to something so that, as I explained above, when you pull the gearshift lever in, the one in the car, the lever (you pointed to) will compress that spring and move the other lever on the transmission into position. Something popped off or broke off - I think I will need to look at mine when I get home today.

Did this just start happening all of a sudden? If so then I would suspect the linkage came off but I would have to look at my car but I am not home until tomorrow morning. Also, was the transmission worked on recently and/or opened? When you try to shift into reverse you pull back on the shift lever in the car and that compresses the spring on the shifter column (in your picture). It also moves the (I believe it is the front lever) on the transmission and then when you move the gearshift lever in the car up & in that moves the 2nd lever on the transmission into reverse. Probably best to have someone in the car and have them shift through the gears so you can watch the levers on the transmission itself to see what's going on. If it was working properly before, and no one messed with it, then it is more than likely a linkage issue.

Install the fuel pump on a slight angle meaning to make sure the arm is either over or under the cam lobe - not sure but I think it goes on top. Look at your old one and see where the cam lobe rubbed on the arm - top or bottom. Anyway, angle the fuel pump into the block with the arm on or under the cam lobe and catch one mounting bolt into the block - leave it loose. Then either push or pull the fuel pump up or down - depends on orientation of the arm as stated before - and line up the other bolt in the block and then tighten both bolts. BTW - when you align the second bolt by "twisting" the pump you should hear the diaphragm make a suction sound and there should be some resistance. That's how you know the pump is in correctly

It is a cover that bolts to the bottom of the bellhousing. It may be called clutch cover or clutch cover pan in your manual.

The Plymouth Doctor sells them

They are rebuildable as long as the case isn't cracked/damaged. If you need to find another one they are not that difficult to find. One other thing: I would check the throwout bearing, too.

He did say the car lurched after the banging noise - "bang and lurch" from above post It doesn't sound (no pun intended) good, like you said

Where did the "loud bang" come from - what area of the car? Under the hood, under the car.... Knowing that may help in diagnosing what could be the problem. Also, you might want to try shifting the car into gear by getting under it and disconnect the linkages from the transmission then manually shift through the gears using the part (the bell crank in the illustration above) that the linkage(s) connect to on the transmission. By doing this you bypass the linkage(s). If it engages into the gears then I would suspect linkage issues. If it doesn't engage then I would suspect transmission/other issues

Compression should be in the 100's - around 100 to 115 - for a healthy engine

First part looks like the bracket for the parking brake cable. Not exactly sure where it mounts - somewhere on the transmission I think

Do you have a new O-RING for the lid?

That looks right

The shrink tubing is on the battery cable end to prevent it from shorting out. The weird thing behind the oil filter appears to be the speedometer cable end The coil should be mounted on the firewall - you can see the hole for it. Nice car. If it was for sale I'd be interested.