joecoozie

I logged in and there was no classified link where it usually is/was???

Should be positive ground but that should have no effect on the lights. Having the ground reversed will cause the amp gauge to read backwards (will go negative when revving engine instead of positive). Check to make sure you have the heavier/thicker battery cables, too. "00" gauge

To eliminate the possibility, or to verify the possibility, of an obstruction in the fuel line from the tank simply run a rubber fuel line from the inlet side of the fuel pump to a remote gas can. If the pump moves gas without any issues then you probably have an obstruction somewhere in the fuel line. If the pump does not move gas then there is something wrong with the fuel pump - bad or not installed correctly...

Just a little advice about trying to start a car that has sat for "a while". You must be patient. You should take your time and not be in a great hurry to try and drop a battery in it and start it. BTW it is positive ground. There are several steps to be performed before trying to start the car all of which will minimize the chance(s) of causing any damage to the engine. 1- Drain the oil and drop the oil pan and clean it out along with the oil sump screen and change the oil filter (if it has one). You'll be surprised at what you will see and find. 2- You already addressed this issue...Drain the gas tank and DO NOT run the car from the tank. Use a remote gas can connected to the fuel pump to avoid getting crud from the gas tank into the carb. The gas tank will more than likely need to dropped and sent out to be cleaned/lined. . 3- Before trying to start squirt some oil into each cylinder so as to have the piston rings lubed and to avoid scoring the cylinder walls. Turn the engine over by hand, with all of the plugs out, to make it easier. 4 - You are already addressing the ignition system. Make sure when reinstalling the distributor that you have #1 cylinder at TDC. You can find TDC easily by placing a ping pong ball over the spark plug hole and turning the engine over by hand until the ball pops up and then stop. That is a close to TDC as you are on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder. You can also pull the inspection plug at the rear of the engine on the head which allows access to #6 cylinder. 5 - There is a petcock drain plug on the side of the block that allows you to drain the block and flush it, too. There is no need to remove the freeze plugs. Brakes are another topic for later. You can slowly remove the thermostat housing bolts by spraying PB or WD-40 and tapping the heads to get the lube down into the threads. You can also heat them and loosen them slightly , squirt more lube, tighten them slightly, loosen them a little further, more lube, tighten them... working them back and forth a little at a time to avoid over-stressing them. Shop manuals are on Ebay, Bernbaums(also sells tons of parts) etc.

The radios are a bit of a chore but do-able. You will just have to lay on your back under the dash to see what you are doing. The gravel guards are a bolt on item. However, I am not sure if there is a difference between the rear fenders on a Coronet and a Meadowbrook. So, I would make sure they would fit properly first. Also, if your car does not have gravel guards you will need to drill the mounting holes.

Are you trying to remove the shaft from the master cylinder or the pedals from the shaft? You do not need to remove the shaft from the master cylinder to take it out and rebuild it. You only need to remove the pedals. Or if the pedal(s) will NOT come off you can remove the pin that is attached to the master cylinder plunger rod and leave the pedal on. You can move the pedal away from the plunger rod to remove the plunger/boot. That is a way to do it IF you cannot get the pedals off. As Sam Buchanan said - "bigger hammer" - rubber mallet The pedals will come off but they need some coaxing. You can remove the master cylinder with the pedals attached. It is best, as stated earlier, to remove the M/C from the car to rebuild it. Once you have the M/C out and if you want to use the new one you have it will be a lot easier to remove the pedal pivot shaft as opposed to having everything on the car.

Do you have the U-shaped "locks" or (as I call them) c-clips removed from the end of the shaft? See image attached. Sometimes you need to pivot/move the pedals back and forth and at the same time apply outward pressure to remove them. The shaft and the inside of the pedals are machined so it is a tight fit.

Is this a problem you always had or did it just start happening? If the dual heater control valve hoses are not routed correctly the valve will not work the way it should. Or the heat(er) control valve on the engine block is either open or partially open allowing hot water to flow through the heater cores. Sometimes these valves and the control cable get rusty/corroded inside and do not operate properly. You may have to remove the valve, take it apart and clean and lubricate it. Sometimes the heat control and the defrost cables get hung up and won't allow you to change the air flow from the floor to the windshield for defrost. Also, I looked in my parts book and only saw a screen but no horsehair for the cowl vent.

Sorry about the confusion. I think you're correct in that he wants to replace this with a removable filter type.

Okay. Was the original sending unit a 2 wire type? I cannot remember if it should be a 2 or 1 wire type. You can ground the sending unit body/flange remotely while it is installed in the tank to be sure you have a good ground. Also, if I remember correctly, the voltage to the sending unit is a pulse - like a blinker - not a steady voltage. Anyway, click on the picture I sent you above and there is a ton of info on troubleshooting your issue. As far as using low or high range - I remember my car(s) with fluid drive would automatically downshift in the high range if the car/engine was struggling up a hill. The shift in high range from, let's say 4th to 3rd, should take care of going up hills if the car slows down too much. However, if you shift from high range to the low range position manually you may over rev the engine going from 4th to 2nd unless, as stated before, you are almost stopped or stopped. You can also, as you stated, use the kickdown switch on the carb. (If I am incorrect with any info I have offered please, anyone, feel free to correct me but be nice about it. I haven't driven a Fluid Drive in over 35 years and I am going by memory only)

I feel your pain. I had a 49 DeSoto Suburban, way back when, with Fluid Drive. I remember that the car would stall out sometimes between shifts, too. Well, it decided to stall out about halfway up on the steepest, busiest hill that led back to the center of town through a traffic light. And to boot, I could never get the vacuum assisted brakes to work properly so when I started to roll backwards towards the traffic light and the center of town, and because the car wouldn't restart when I tried, I was standing on that brake pedal as hard as I could but the car kept picking up speed. (The e-brake was all worn out, too. I tried it. No good!!!) As panic set in I decided the only way out of this situation was to "ground" the big boat by hopping the curb and coming to rest halfway on the road and the sidewalk. As far as the fuel gauge is concerned is it a one or two wire unit? I am pretty sure it should be a 2 wire unit. The sending unit, when installed into the tank, gets its ground from the tank to the flange of the sending unit. You need to make sure there is a clean contact surface between the unit and the tank. Take a look here: Do you have a downshift button on the end/tip of the shifter arm? I had one on my DeSoto and I could downshift by pushing the button.

Also, I believe there is a spring inside that the bolt goes through so when you tap the lid to loosen it I'd keep the bolt in a few threads so the lid doesn't pop up suddenly. I believe I see a drain plug on the bottom of the housing. If you remove that plug (with a can underneath it to catch the oil) most of the oil will drain out. After I install the new cartridge I pour some fresh oil into the housing (sort of a "primer") before putting the lid back on, about half full, so when the car is started there will be oil available to the engine at startup.

"Just takes so long when I try to be patient" But that is the key to success when dealing with old cars

The gauge can be replaced without removing the dashboard. It is not difficult to do but it is uncomfortable because you have to lay on the front seat, face up, with your head toward the dashboard. Then squirm down under the dash (trying to avoid the brake and clutch pedals) and look up toward the gauges. There are 3 or 4 very small screws or nuts (can't remember) that hold the gauge(s) in place. Remove them and pop the gauge out. Also, try to be careful when removing the gauge as there is a very thin paper insulator/gasket between the dash and the gauge. You want to try not to damage this. It is difficult because the paper is over 70 years old. Good luck. Joe

Sent you a PM

Can you I was in the middle of typing a similar reply but Plymouthy Adams beat me to it.

Yeah, don't believe everything you see on You Tube. What you need to do is have a ton of patience moving forward. The car has been sitting 30 years - if you have to wait a couple of more months to get it running that's not a big deal. If you rush into it not only will it cost you more time but it can cost you a lot of $$$$$ As stated before,: Pull the plugs and squirt Marvel (as stated before) or a mixture of acetone and tranny fluid into the cylinders. The cylinders are not directly below the spark plug holes in the head so make sure you get it into the cylinders. You can use a small tube or straw to pour the mixture into the cylinders. It will also be okay if some of it goes into/onto the valves as they need to be lubed up, too. Let it sit a day or two and repeat the process. With all of the plugs out try turning the engine by hand. It sounds like the engine is either stuck or tight from sitting. DO NOT FORCE IT TO TURN. YOU MAY HAVE A COUPLE OF STUCK VALVES AND FORCING IT TO TURN CAN CAUSE DAMAGE. If it won't free up, or turn by hand, you can try removing the flywheel cover plate and using a big screwdriver/pry bar to turn it over using the flywheel teeth. This gives you more direct torque to the engine. DON'T FORCE IT!!!! IF IT TURNS A LITTLE THEN STOPS AND WON'T TURN ANYMORE THEN YOU MAY HAVE STUCK VALVES. If that is the case you will need to pull the head and maybe the valve cover plates (located under the intake/exhaust manifolds on the side of the engine block / if you do this clean up the sludge in there, too) to free up the valves. If you get it to turn freely without binding or stopping, then you can proceed to move onto the brake/fuel/cooling systems, etc. All of these things will need to be rebuilt, cleaned or replaced from sitting. Once you get it to turn over freely and before trying to start it: Proceed to #'s 1,2 - you can do #'s 3 & 4 after you get the car started using the procedure below 1)Drain the oil, radiator,fuel tank, etc... 2)Drop the oil pan and clean it out - you'll be surprised at what you will see. 3)Drop the fuel tank and get it cleaned/boiled out. 4)Flush all of the fuel lines, brake lines, radiator,etc... If it turns over freely and you just want to see if it will at least start /run, after performing the above mentioned steps (at least #'s 1 & 2), fill with oil, then either do a complete tune-up (plugs,cap,rotor,points, condenser, maybe wires, too), or clean up the plugs and points, and run a remote gas can connected to the fuel pump (this will tell you if the fuel pump is still good, too) to see if it will start. Good luck on your journey and remember - BE PATIENT !!!!

I have heard from others that diesel fuel is good for that. If all else fails you may need to pull the head. Valves could be stuck, too. That being said, as with a Chrysler I had, no matter what was tried (I even pulled the head AND loosened the crank bearing caps) that engine would NOT turn over-even with a 1" drive breaker bar and a long pipe. I also had a 49 Plymouth that had a locked-up engine. Even when the tranny was in gear and the car was pulled with a truck all that happened was the rear tires dragged. Sometimes they will free up and other times they need to be torn down.

Should be 251 c.i.

I do not claim to know for sure but... You did not mention what it was getting hung up on. If it is the window then you'd need to remove the window first. I have only removed the vent windows on parts cars so I wasn't too fussy about doing it. I vaguely remember removing the window (and the mechanism) first and even then they were a bugger to get out.

Thanks Bob. I never professed to know everything about what I say. Thanks for the education

I believe Chrysler Corp had their own wood factory (Pekin Wood in Arkansas) and had the wooden bodies fabricated there for ALL Chrysler Woodies

I know it has been a year since my last update about the Woody. Because I was furloughed from work for a few days I decided to do some work on my cars. The first thing I did was to get the 47 T & C running again (needed the points cleaned). It fired right up. Then I jumped to the 49 Caddy - installed new water pump, fuel pump, installed oil filter housing/lines, installed new thermostat and generator bracket. I finally got to the 49 Woody today and I dropped the oil pan. All I can say is "good thing I did". There was an inch or more of sludge in the pan and the oil pickup screen was totally gummed up. I am soaking the pan and will remove the pickup screen and soak that, too. Joe

https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-is-a-salvage-title-vehicle.html

I looked at my 49 Plymouth Woody and could not come up with anything. BUT I think it may go to the center rear brake light housing where the wiring goes through - on the side. It could be a bushing/bevel that allows the brake light housing to rotate without crimping the wires. Just a guess Joe