joecoozie

Thanks for the pics I am sure you'll remember once it is back together

Does the linkage connect on the passenger side of the engine? Please post a picture of the side(s) of the engine so we can see if we can pinpoint the correct location From looking at some "not so great" pictures it seems like the bracket may bolt onto the manifold(s) - just a guess.

Yes, you can pull the engine only but you will have to remove the transmission/bellhousing/FD unit. Removing the front floor panel ( it's bolted in) will give you all the access you'll need to make the job a lot easier. I have done it several times this way - without removing the inner fenders. However, in the shop manual, there is a procedure for removing the fenders/grille, etc all in one piece - if you want to do that.

The color is aluminum for the head and block. We can get into the other parts attached to the engine - if you want to.

Sometimes the valves need to be rotated or spun to break up the rust. I know this because...... I had a 1951 Pontiac with several stuck valves and I soaked them, beat them down with a rubber mallet, etc, but they continued to get stuck in the open position. Since I had the head off, as you do, I used a pair of pliers that had rubber-lined jaws to grab the valve head and rotate the valve (while squirting lube down the stem) This fixed the sticking problem and caused no damage to the valves. Also, while you have the valve covers off, make sure you clean out the area(s) where the oil pools (it's the area below the springs). I'll bet if you stick your finger in there you will find that the pools are loaded with sludge - which is normal for an old engine that was never rebuilt or taken apart. Just clean them out and wipe out the residue. Same thing when you drop the oil pan - clean out the sludge and clean the pickup screen, too.

Sounds like vapor lock or the fuel pump is suspect. If you let the car cool off does it start and run good? If so, does it start to act up when it gets warmed up?

Shop Manual - pages 266-268

Welcome Cooper40. First thing I would tell you is if you are going to start removing stuff take LOTS of pictures before removing anything so you know how and where stuff goes when reassembling. Okay, as far as your siezed engine is concerned....... How are you trying to turn the engine over? By the fan belt, the crankshaft nut, the starter???? I had a car where the water pump was locked up, not the engine. But it seemed like the engine was locked up. It is a good idea to pull the manifolds/valve cover plates, not only to see what's going on, BUT to clean up in there and spray lube everything, too. Also, drop the oil pan and clean that out. If the engine has not been rebuilt you'd be surprised at the sludge you'll find in the pan....AND clean the oil sump pickup screen. Also, you can spray the connecting rods and crank journals (as best as you can) to get SOME lube up in there. I would continue to soak the cylinders. Marvel Mystery Oil is good but I know a lot of people recommend transmission fluid and acetone - mixed 50/50. I use(d) Kroil penetrating oil, too. You need to let it soak for a week or so and then try to turn it. If it won't turn keep soaking it and letting it sit. Either try turning it over by the crankshaft nut. You get a lot more leverage. Even better than that if you remove the flywheel cover plate (under the car) and use a large screwdriver or a pry bar on the flywheel teeth (be careful not to chip any teeth) that gives you even more leverage. Or, you can tap the starter. Do not hold the starter in the engaged position just tap it. This sometimes helps loosen things up. You can also put the car in gear and rock it back and forth to try and unlock the engine. If you get the engine to turn watch the valves in the head to see if any are stuck. There are usually a couple that are either tight or won't go up/down. One other comment: Be wary of all those "Will it run" You Tube videos. From what I have seen the majority of them have some guy pull a car out of the woods (after sitting there for 50 years) and throwing a battery in it to see if it will start. REALLY BAD IDEA!!!! There are preparation steps (some outlined above) that need to be taken in order to avoid damaging anything - BUT it looks like you are going in the right direction Have patience and just keep at it. The last engine I unsiezed took me 3 months - but I got it...... Here's my 49 I am working on. Joe

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I think you got your answer on your 1st post about this

Now you need to figure out WHY it is leaking

Here's a good one. I once bought a 1940 Buick from a storage unit. The guy from the storage place got a title BUT he used the intake manifold part number as the VIN. I quickly resolved the issue by calling DMV and explaining the situation (several times) to them Filled out a form for changing VIN on title and had a garage sign off on it. It worked out okay As far as the original posters issue it would be totally up to him. BUT The problem is that some states do not accept the engine number on a title as valid and some states do. If someone from one of the states that does not accept the engine number ever wants to buy the car that could be an issue.

" I challenged him on it and his response was pretty low." Par for the course - nuff said "Maybe we can cut his sales by 75%. ?" - It's always been said it hurts the most when hit in the pocketbook!!!!

The standard original size for your car was 7.00X15 which converts to P215/75R15 or P225/70R15 I would not go with the narrower tires especially with a car that large and heavy. (BTW - I had a 47 Suburban years ago and I really miss that car)

Could be the pump - won't hurt to rebuld it Could be vapor lock from the fuel boiling when the engine gets hot - do you have the heat shield in place? Could be an obstruction/dirt in the line from the tank or in the tank itself

Muffler swelling happens when the car backfires through the exhaust and the pressure from the backfire will sometimes "swell" the muffler or it can also blow the muffler open at the seams or any weak spot in the metal

Why did you change the cap in the first place? IF the car was not doing this with the original cap then put the original one back on and see if that eliminates the problem. If not then you can go from there.

Take the battery to an auto parts store and have it checked. That would eliminate at least one possible cause.

The pedal going to the floor and staying down sounds like you need to adjust the overcenter spring. Cannot help with the other question???

Yep. Needs ground to the flange.

No problem

Use a 1/2" square drive

Sent you a PM Joe

Call and ask if it will fit