joecoozie

I think you got your answer on your 1st post about this

Now you need to figure out WHY it is leaking

Here's a good one. I once bought a 1940 Buick from a storage unit. The guy from the storage place got a title BUT he used the intake manifold part number as the VIN. I quickly resolved the issue by calling DMV and explaining the situation (several times) to them Filled out a form for changing VIN on title and had a garage sign off on it. It worked out okay As far as the original posters issue it would be totally up to him. BUT The problem is that some states do not accept the engine number on a title as valid and some states do. If someone from one of the states that does not accept the engine number ever wants to buy the car that could be an issue.

" I challenged him on it and his response was pretty low." Par for the course - nuff said "Maybe we can cut his sales by 75%. ?" - It's always been said it hurts the most when hit in the pocketbook!!!!

The standard original size for your car was 7.00X15 which converts to P215/75R15 or P225/70R15 I would not go with the narrower tires especially with a car that large and heavy. (BTW - I had a 47 Suburban years ago and I really miss that car)

Could be the pump - won't hurt to rebuld it Could be vapor lock from the fuel boiling when the engine gets hot - do you have the heat shield in place? Could be an obstruction/dirt in the line from the tank or in the tank itself

Muffler swelling happens when the car backfires through the exhaust and the pressure from the backfire will sometimes "swell" the muffler or it can also blow the muffler open at the seams or any weak spot in the metal

Why did you change the cap in the first place? IF the car was not doing this with the original cap then put the original one back on and see if that eliminates the problem. If not then you can go from there.

Take the battery to an auto parts store and have it checked. That would eliminate at least one possible cause.

The pedal going to the floor and staying down sounds like you need to adjust the overcenter spring. Cannot help with the other question???

Yep. Needs ground to the flange.

No problem

Use a 1/2" square drive

Sent you a PM Joe

Call and ask if it will fit

Jeeez, man. It's just one thing after another !!!!! These types of setbacks, when working on our cars, are what leads a lot of people to give up and throw in the towel. Then the abandoned project sits and sits..... But, sometimes it's a good thing to take a step back and regroup - clears the head of all of the frustration(s) Keep plugging along Marc!!!!!

Sent you a PM

I was thinking about suggesting using 2 gaskets. It could be a possibility. Also, be wary of tightening the bolts too much (or too tightly) because you can snap off the exhaust manifold ears on the manifold flange and then you have another issue to deal with. Just asking..... When you are attaching the pipe to the manifold is the pipe already connected to the muffler? I would suggest that you, first, connect the pipe to the manifold without it being connected to the muffler. That way you can get the pipe onto the manifold nice and straight and you will have "play" to move the pipe around to get it to sit correctly (straight) before bolting it on. Also, clean up the original pipe flange with a wire brush to get a nice flush fit

Wasn't this engine rebuilt many years ago and not run at that time but sat until now? If so, then you may have some stuck oil rings that will need run-time to unstick. Just guessing.

When you brought it back to the shop and they showed you the starter "working" on the bench, did you watch and take note how they connected the wiring to get the starter to spin? It seems like, from what you describe, the internal wiring on the solenoid may be reversed?????

I would remove the paint from the housing that you painted. Looking at the pictures you posted prior to the rebuild there is no paint there. Did you try to ground the starter remotely and then try cranking it?

Try wedging a piece of wood between the starter and the block to hold it "up". Or, wait for your helper......

Tires were/are?? stamped "BLEM" when they are not deemed "perfect" to sell for full price. That meant that there were some flaws to the tire (i.e. - crooked whitewall(s), etc....) They were sold at a discounted price because of the flaws.

Hopefully you are planning on replacing the rear (rubber) mounts because from the looks of the one in the picture you really should replace them I would also replace the front motor mount.